1990 fuel filter housing rebuild
 

Okay i finally got mad today, I been meaning to get around to a leak on the fuel filter housing...from the heater which is sucking air into the fuel system.

I looked high and low on the internet could not find a FAQ on how to do this.

Here goes, This is for the Stanadyne Model 80 fuel filter housing head.

1,Remove the electrical connections, and fuel lines on the fuel filter head on the engine.

2,Remove the assembly from the engine and and drain diesel fuel, and remove filter from filter head.

3, Make a clean work space so you can set things up.

4, Ok first order of the day remove the heater, get a pair of pliers and firmly grip the top portion of the heater heat and slowly pull up ward.... it will pull straight out you will see an 'O ring' around the head base. ( note there are 2 styles of heater one that has a solid core and one that has more of and heater element look to it.) lots on scale and debris in here bad blockage.

5, filter change sensor, note in 1990 this was deleted.
ok there's a metal tang around this that helps to hold it in place...use a very small screw drive and gently pry it tang very slowly working in a clock wise fashion until it comes out...the idea is not to score the base bore, you will then see an 'O ring' behind it in the filter base, go ahead and remove it.

6,Water in fuel sensor, perhaps the easiest one, just undo to small bolts on back. remove sensor.

7,Remove the air bleed valve and the water drain valve.

8, Remove the filter head bracket and electrical connector bracket, 4 x 10mm bolts

9, Okay fully stripped down, time for a chem dip bath for a few hours.

10, Pull out and blast it clean with carb cleaner to remove any leftover dirt or grime. Clean out the drain hole, air bleed hole, and inlet, and outlet holes. Use shop air to dry and blast any left over scaling or dirt out.

Pay special attention to the heater hole on top of the fuel filter head lots of scale in here and dirt.

11, Assembly is the reverse of removal, install new 'O-ring' seals the new ones are made out of vitron..

Don't use the old 'O-rings' they will leak...... ultra low sulfur diesel eats away at the older type of O-Ring seal really badly.

As soon as i can figure out how to load the pictures I get them up here.:c:

Pictures of fuel head
 

some pictures of fuel filter head disassemble.

more pictures
 

more pictures,

O Ring Replacments
 

:humm:

For fuel heater use size, 14mm ID, or 9/16 ID


For filter change sensor use size, 28mm ID

Those units are junk. expect it to start leaking again soon. Get a Racor or a FFM from a 93+ 6.5TD

Fuel Filters
 

Thanks for the positive comment, like anything that's old, it needs a rebuild and to be serviced.

Does not matter if its a Gas engine or Diesel engine. Been working on cars trucks for 20 years now


It may not be the best unit in town but it gets the job done.

This is a video i found on you tube, about the fuel sensor switch replacements.

follow the link:

I am looking at doing the exact same thing with my fuel filter housing. After having troubles with my engine dying after running for 10-15 seconds in the mornings.

I don't see a O ring on the fuel heater.

Where did you get the new O rings?

I've heard of people performing their own deletes by tapping the hole and putting a bolt in it. What do you think?

The o ring for the heater is around the base of the heater when you pull it out of the fuel manager.

The o-rings can be purchased at the dealer or any diesel shop...there made out of vi-tron...good with the ultra low sulfur fuel. Ive heard of people deleting the sensor by tapping and putting a short bolt in there...but a new 28mm id, o-ring should stop it leaking.

Heres another video from YouTube

This is a fuel filter housing strip down...........................Hope this helps someone.


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Heres another on changing the fuel filter on the truck, not the easiest but!



I really hope this helps someone, could not find any info on the internet when i got mine in 2011:c:

Not trying to revive an old thread, just wanted to say thanks for posting this. Exactly what I was looking for, noticed my leak earlier today. Now just have to find new o-rings and fix it!

Heres another video, on how to repair the fuel leaks
 

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I hope to build up a knowledge base for these 'Stanadyne 80' housings, to help us 6.2l owners. if you have hints and tips please add to this thread.:c:

OKAY HERE ARE THE GM AND STANADYNE PART NUMBERS TO SERVICE THESE UNITS:


14071933 ASSEMBLY C-K TRUCK MODEL 80 PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION GM PART NUMBER: STANADYNE NUMBER

Bracket, Wiring Harness 15593335 24838
Clip, Vacuum Switch Retainer 15593306 24835
Seal, “ 0” Ring (Vacuum Switch) 15596608 24275
Switch, Vacuum 15593308 24831
Seal, Drain Plug 15596611 24266
Seal, “0” Ring (Fuel Heater) 15596600 15349
Plug, Vent 15596612 24267
Screw, Thd Forming V2-20 15596607 24437
Bracket, Mtg. 15593336 34522
Clamp, Filter 15596613 24265
Heater Assembly, Fuel 15593337 24870
Screw, Thd Forming 15596603 24322
Sensor, Water 15596610 24269
Base Assembly 15593338 24521
* Element, Filter 14075347 24262


14071064 ASSEMBLY G-P TRUCK MODEL 80 PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION GM PART NUMBER STANADYNE NUMBER

Bumper, Vacuum Switch 15593305 27129
Clip, Vacuum Switch Retainer 15593306 24835
Seal, “ 0” Ring Vacuum Switch 15593307 24834
Switch, Vacuum 15593308 24831
Screw Thd Forming (V*-20) 15596607 24437
Clamp, Filter 15596613 24265
Bracket, Filter Mtg. 15593309 24527
Seal, Drain Plug 15596611 24266
Plug, Vent 15596612 24267
Seal, “0” Ring 15596600 15349
Heater Assembly, Fuel 15596609 24270
Screw, Thd Forming (8-32) 15596603 24322
Sensor, Water 15593310 27108
* Element, Filter 14075347 24262

:pca1:

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The long number is the GM one, the shorter number is the Stanadyne number.

Formatting did not work:w2:

My mechanic just gave me the bad news.. $250 for a new base. Wonder how he, and later I, found a new one from our local chevy dealer? I should have asked if it was a genuine Stanadyne Model 80.

So is it worth saving $250 rebuilding it? How long did it take?

Or should I abandon it and look at a Racor or a FFM like acesneights1 suggested? Saying I don't like the back of intake location is a understatement.:mad3:

They put them at the back of the intake to make use of residual heat in winter to help prevent fuel gelling.

Makes sense.. Since I just blew my back out again.. Looks like I'm shelling out 500 to fix a fuel leak.:ouch:

rebuild time
 

Mine took 2 hours to clean and rebuild.

common leak problem is the o rings( Heater core + filter change sensor). $4-5 dollars will get you up and running again.

Usually the fuel line from the filter to the IP leaks all the time, so if you dont see any leaks on the fuel housing, remove the intake manifold and 99 times out of a 100 it the problem not the standayne 80 housing. its a cheap $5 dollar 5/16 rubber fuel line fix.

Good look.:c:

My mechanic rebuilt my base when he learned the Stanadyne Model 80 wasn't available after dealer first said they were.

$133 out the door:jump:

good job
 

Its a easy fix if your back isn't out. There really easy units to fix and repair, most people talk trash about them,,, but its like i say if you don't like a transmission or gas or diesel engine just move on..... they all have there strengths and weakness.

Glad it didn't cost you an arm and a leg. When i had to do mine years ago there was no info anywhere, i hope this thread will help many more of us 6.2 owners.

Glad i could help you out.:c: