I have a 1994 chevy 6.5 diesel 2500 p/u. I replaced the glow plug relay due to a broken stud. The glow plugs were intermittant because of the defective stud. The dash light was working fine until I replaced the relay and new glow plugs. Now I have power to the one stud on the glow plug relay, but no dash light, no relay clicking, no power to the other stud. I was searching the forums, and everyone talks about a fuse in the engine compt, where is it in the engine compt? And also the fusible links? I found a 5amp fuse under the dash labeled glow plug, no power there either with key on or off. Could I have a bad Glow plug relay, if so how can I test it . I tried jumping the two studs with key on snd it startrd to spark, thanks

 

not sure if 94 has fuse in fuse under the hood

did check to see if you have power to small wire at glow plug relay when key turn on which may take 2 ppl do it

yes you may have gotten bag relay

 

maybe this will help you

 

Thanks for the quick response. I recvd your schematic for the relay. I'm going into work so I'll be able to use it tomorrow. I'll keep you informed. Thanks again

 

i do have mod to over ride the glow plug system if you want it

 

Sorry for not getting back sooner. I found the new gp relay to be defective. I replaced it with a friends old one and it worked fine. I called the company and they quickly replaed it with a new one. It works great. Thanks again for all your help.

 

Could someone please explain the mod crazy was talking about (crazy i sent you a pm) I am in NC and need to get to IL by friday and cant get a relay by then. If theres anything i can do, help would be much appreciated. Thanks

-Josh

 

well sorry didn't get your PM


Guide for Glow Plug Over Ride
While Maintaining Computerized Glow Plugs

This is a guide to help you install a switch for you to have the ability of extending the glow time. This is helpful when you live in older climates or if you have AC Delco 60g glow plugs. I only suggest installing this if you have self regulating glow plugs. This is a fairly simple modification and if you set everything up yourself you will save quite a bit of money. Most kits for this will cost you over $100, but if you follow this guide you can do it for under $40.

Parts:

* Ford Starter Solenoid [$12 - Advance Auto - 5470277 (S58Z) ]
* #6 or 8 Gauge Wire and Connectors [$14 - Tractor Supply Co. (6 gauge, 2x 24" wires) ]
* Momentary Push Button Switch [$5 - Tractor Supply Co.]
* Switch Wiring and Connectors [In garage]
* Add a Wire Fuse Tap [$7 - Advance Auto - 5080114 (BP/HHH) ]

Total Price for Me: $38
Estimated Time: 1hr 30 mins
Difficulty: Easy

Step 1:
Disconnect battery grounds and then take off the nuts that hold the power lugs on the glow plug relay.

Step 2:
Mount the solenoid in your place of interest (I mounted mine where the Baro sensor was located and relocated my baro sensor).
Hook up switch wire to the "S" lug and feed wire through firewall, make sure you have enough wire to go to switch. Below is where I mounted mine:

Step 3a:
Remove your dash bezel. You can do this by pulling out your cup holder a little bit, dropping your steering column all the way down, and for automatics putting shifter into "1". After that pull the corners and along the top on the bezel. Only thing holding it on are the clips.
After the bezel is loose, pull it away from the dash enough so you can unplug the headlight switch and cargo lamp, and 4x4 switches.
Note: You do not need to remove your bezel if you place switch on one of the two extra switch panels, just pry those out and you can feed wire through.


Drill where you are going to mount your switch and mount it (you have one shot). The next thing you will need to do is run the power to the switch. Using the fuse tap, tap into a fuse that is only has power when key is on and run that wire to the switch (I used Cruise fuse).
After the switch is all hooked up (solenoid and power) go ahead and hook up everything behind the bezel (headlight,cargo, 4x4 switches) and mount the bezel back on the dash.


Step 4:
After everything is done inside the cab, go back and connect the the Solenoid to the Glow Plug Relay. Do this by using the #6 gauge wire and connectors for the lugs. It shouldn't matter how it is hooked up as long as you have one lead on solenoid and one lead on relay, and the other wire on the opposite side of the relay and solenoid. See pictures:
Note: Do not over tighten the nuts on glow relay. New glow relay is $42.


Step 5:
Make sure all the connections on the relay and solenoids are tight and no bare wires are touching that shouldn't be. Hook the batteries back up and test. Turn on key, wait for the glow light to go off and push the new glow button. If working properly the glows will work (hear the click) and the WTS light on dash will light up (97+ WTS light will not light up, the light is computer controlled). If this happens then you are done .

Note: On 97+ trucks you may want to install an extra indicator light to make sure your glows are working.

 

I was having issues with my glow plug light just a flash no power to relay from computer at start up so I built a timer circuit that when key is turned on the circuit gives a dry contact closed for 12 seconds then off till next start. Works perfectly.

 

What glows do you have in the truck extending the glow time with a 9 G or 11G glow can be bad karma, extend glow for AC-60G or Bosh durathem only