Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

Zero Oil Pressure

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  #11  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:36 PM
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The biggest expense is the cam, lifters, pistons, and the turbo.

If you decide to rebuild yours, be sure to have the block completely tore down (all bearings, gaskets, and other parts removed), then have it boiled out, magnafluxed, and bores checked for taper. Inspect the cam, lifters, pistons, and rods for abnormal defects, especially score (damage that's irreversable, parts need replaced). You can have the crank ground pretty cheap, usually around $150, BUT DO NOT HAVE IT POLISHED!!!
 
  #12  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:39 PM
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Well, I wanted to rebuild for power, so a lot of my parts would probably be scraped anyway. Problem is its all happening to soon. Unfortunately the truck may sit for a few months till I can get a good job.
 
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:40 PM
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if your block only has a little crack i know a popular way to stop it from spreading is to lock and stitch it
 
  #14  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:42 PM
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curiosity killed the cat, but why not polished

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

what is to keep the squirters from creating new cracks, or do new parts mount differently?
 

Last edited by Paintballrepins; 02-28-2010 at 08:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #15  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:42 PM
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You can have the bores ground and sleeved back to stock specs so you can reuse the same pistons, and the rings will last longer, and seal better than if you did a glaze bust and recross hatch.
 
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:46 PM
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I would just like to say again, you guys have all been a great help, I suppose I picked a good time to post... Its almost like a chat function
 
  #17  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Paintballrepins
curiosity killed the cat, but why not polished

If the crank is wore enough to let oil past the bearings (in which case is what's going on with your engine) polishing takes a slight amount of scored metal off, and leaves it a little bigger than stock specs. New standard size bearings won't seal around properly, and you back in the same boat as you are now. 20 thousandths over will be too tight, so that's where you'd want to have it ground down to.

I once ran a polished crank shaft in an engine, and needless to say after spending $2000 to rebuild a rebuilt engine (busted crank first time), it ran 0 at idle, and 10 going down the highway.
 
  #18  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:52 PM
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fair enough
 
  #19  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Paintballrepins
what is to keep the squirters from creating new cracks, or do new parts mount differently?
thats why i would get a crate motor or a older 6.5 engine block because it doesnt have oil squirters and it wont crack there as easily
 
  #20  
Old 02-28-2010, 09:12 PM
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What was the advantage on the newer blocks, that they changed they system?
 


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