Zero Oil Pressure
#11
The biggest expense is the cam, lifters, pistons, and the turbo.
If you decide to rebuild yours, be sure to have the block completely tore down (all bearings, gaskets, and other parts removed), then have it boiled out, magnafluxed, and bores checked for taper. Inspect the cam, lifters, pistons, and rods for abnormal defects, especially score (damage that's irreversable, parts need replaced). You can have the crank ground pretty cheap, usually around $150, BUT DO NOT HAVE IT POLISHED!!!
If you decide to rebuild yours, be sure to have the block completely tore down (all bearings, gaskets, and other parts removed), then have it boiled out, magnafluxed, and bores checked for taper. Inspect the cam, lifters, pistons, and rods for abnormal defects, especially score (damage that's irreversable, parts need replaced). You can have the crank ground pretty cheap, usually around $150, BUT DO NOT HAVE IT POLISHED!!!
#12
#13
#14
#17
If the crank is wore enough to let oil past the bearings (in which case is what's going on with your engine) polishing takes a slight amount of scored metal off, and leaves it a little bigger than stock specs. New standard size bearings won't seal around properly, and you back in the same boat as you are now. 20 thousandths over will be too tight, so that's where you'd want to have it ground down to.
I once ran a polished crank shaft in an engine, and needless to say after spending $2000 to rebuild a rebuilt engine (busted crank first time), it ran 0 at idle, and 10 going down the highway.
#19