My buddy talked to a shop that works on these types and told him about the solenoid. The shop told him the solenoid was not the problem. It is the rod that it activates is scored and not pushing open the valve to allow fuel to pass. The IP has to come out and be recalibrated in order to replace the pushrod. He will find out from the owner if he wants it fixed and then either charge for other work already performed or take it over to the guy who knows how to do the work and add his work to the owners bill.
Thanks for all the responses which are very good and sound advice.

 

My 93 6.5 is doing the exact same thing! I haven't been able to figure it out! Please let me know if that fixes the problem!

 

don't use ether, silicone spray is better and safer

 

hey mine has done this for a few months now.tried all i know.if you fix it and it was the prob ,please let me know,I am ready to throw in the towel.Thanks Joe

 

start a new thread and explain the problem

 

Has anyone found out what the problem is for the 93 chevy 6.5 that starts and runs
fine until you shut it of for 15 to 30 min and then is hard to start until it cools off?
Thnak, glasspack.

 

Next time it cuts off on you, carry a quart of warm water. pour it over the pump to cool it down.....maybe 2 quarts..be careful of the block. ....it should start.

The head and rotor goes bad in db2 ip pumps because of low sulfur fuel(not enough lube for DB2 pumps)...once you get the pump rebuilt use a lube additive with each fill up should fix the problem.

 

What is a good additive to put in the fuel tank? I just put in sea foam.
Thanks, glasspack

 

Hello

I use 2 stroke TCW3, 64oz to 25 gallons in my truck.. help quieten down the pump and clean the injectors.


Stanadyne make a few additives also look on there web site. Or you can go too wallly world they have diesel cleaner- lubes to.


Try the water trick and see if that fixes your problem....Most company's on ebay will rebuild it for you for about $300 to $400 with a 1 year guarantee.