6.2l Banks Turbo - Stalling and Power Loss When Hot
#11
04-27-2015, 03:13 PM
Well, I got some help and replaced the tank and sending unit.
The truck is up and running again!
The tank had a fair amount of crud in it but I think the problem was the sending unit. The strainer was black and looked solid. There was also a bit of rust on the sending unit itself.
Thanks Mayhem, HeavyChevy and InheritedDiesel. I was totally stuck until I got your help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.
The truck is up and running again!
The tank had a fair amount of crud in it but I think the problem was the sending unit. The strainer was black and looked solid. There was also a bit of rust on the sending unit itself.
Thanks Mayhem, HeavyChevy and InheritedDiesel. I was totally stuck until I got your help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.
The following users liked this post:
InheritedDiesel (04-28-2015)
#12
04-27-2015, 05:19 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
Replaced the sending unit, with? If you didnt purchase a diesel spec fuel strainer (sold seperately, see attached) and install it on the new replacement sender yourself, or just installed the new unit w/ included "sock." Chances are you installed a most restrictive gasoline fuel strainer which can come back to haunt you....
For those who DOUBT how restrictive even a like new gasoline "sock" is, watch the video's.
He may be discussing a '93 model, but given the odds with 6.5 diesel replacement fuel senders that come preassembled with the wrong sock, I think its applicable to all GM diesels models.
Part 1
Note: LP Fuel Pressures
Part 2
@ 2 minutes in, note the clean aftermarket "sock" discovered is NOT a diesel rated sock and the callapse he refers to can restrict fuel flow as it concentrates all fuel flow through a relatively small 3/8" circle of fine weive gasoline medium vs the 4-6 square inches of the much courser diesel rated "sock" w/ bypass valve that should be present....
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURE DIFFERENCE W LIKE NEW BUT MOST RESTRICTIVE GASOLINE SOCK VS SOCKLESS.
Part 3
Deleting the fuel strainer in lue of an in-line fuel filter beit pre and/or post lift pump is not advised. Let me try to explain, starting with some educational materials...
Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel (ULSD) Fuel Technology 76 page PDF
TSB- Suction/Vacuum Side Diesel Fuel Filters
Continued next post.
For those who DOUBT how restrictive even a like new gasoline "sock" is, watch the video's.
He may be discussing a '93 model, but given the odds with 6.5 diesel replacement fuel senders that come preassembled with the wrong sock, I think its applicable to all GM diesels models.
Part 1
Part 2
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURE DIFFERENCE W LIKE NEW BUT MOST RESTRICTIVE GASOLINE SOCK VS SOCKLESS.
Part 3
Deleting the fuel strainer in lue of an in-line fuel filter beit pre and/or post lift pump is not advised. Let me try to explain, starting with some educational materials...
Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel (ULSD) Fuel Technology 76 page PDF
TSB- Suction/Vacuum Side Diesel Fuel Filters
Continued next post.
#13
04-27-2015, 05:21 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
Copied directly from the 6.2 handbook posted earlier, starting page 105.
COLD WEATHER OPERATION (DIESEL ENGINES)
Diesel fuel is sensitive to temperature. All diesel fuel has a certain amount of heavy paraffin-like components, which are high in energy value and help improve fuel economy. But, when temperatures are less than about -7 °C (20°F), these heavy paraffin components begin turning into wax flakes. If temperatures are low enough, these flakes can build up on the fuel tank filter or the engine fuel filter and stop fuel from reaching the engine.
At low temperatures, wax flakes are more likely to form in Number 2-D fuel than Number 1-D (or a “winterized” 2-D) fuel. For best operation at temperatures below - 7 ° C (20°F) use Number 1-D, or Number 2-D which has been blended with Number 1-D for winter use.
If you are driving in temperatures less than - 1 8 °C (0°F) and do not have Number 1-D or “winterized” Number 2-D fuel in the fuel tank, kerosene can be added to reduce waxing. Kerosene should be added at a ratio of one gallon of kerosene to two gallons o f diesel fuel. Because of the lower energy value of kerosene (and reduced fuel economy) it should be added only when anticipated temperatures are less than - 1 8 °C (0°F). Once kerosene has been added the engine should be run for several minutes to mix the fuel.
The addition of kerosene will not unplug a filter plugged with wax. Warming a “waxed” filter 0 °C to 10°C (32°F to 50°F) will return the wax to solution. Filter replacement is not normally required.
To improve cold weather operation, an engine block heater and fuel heater are on your diesel engine. (See “Cold Weather Starting” under “Starting the Diesel Engine” in Section 1 of this manual for information on the block heater.) The fuel heater is designed to come on when the fuel temperature is less than 4°C (40 °F). It warms the fuel and helps stop wax flakes from building up in the fuel filter.
Fuel Tank Components
FILLER CAP
The filler cap contains a 2-way check valve. This will allow air to escape during the day when the tank heats up. In the event of a rollover, the valve will prevent spillage. Under pressure, no greater than 2 psi will exist. The valve must also allow air to enter the tank to replace the fuel used by the engine. A vacuum of no more than about one inch of mercury can accumulate in the tank and a slight hissing sound when removing the cap is normal. The fuel system is calibrated with the cap in place and any alterations will effect performance. Diesel fuel tank caps are specific to Diesels. Gasoline tank caps may fit in the diesel tank filler neck but should not be used.
FUEL PICKUP AND SENDING UNIT
See Figure 4-4. The fuel pick up, commonly known as the “ sock” has three functions:
1. Strain out large solids.
2. Act as a strainer to prevent entry of water.
3. Act as a wick to drain fuel down to the bottom of the tank since all pickup pipes do not reach the very bottom of the tank.
The tank filter is a Saran (Polyvinylidene Chloride) sock and is fastened to the fuel inlet line of the in-tank fuel filter and fuel pick-up assembly.
The fuel tank filter sock has a bypass valve which opens when the filter is covered with wax allowing fuel to flow to the fuel heater.
Without this sock fuel line heater would be ineffective because the fuel would be trapped in the tank. Since the bypass valve is located at the upper end of the sock, fuel will only be drawn into the waxed sock if the tank contains more than approximately 4 gallons of fuel. Therefore, it is important to maintain a minimum of 1/4 tank of fuel when temperatures are below 20 degrees F.
The Saran sock material has a nominal pore size of 130 microns. In addition to acting as a particle filter for the mechanical lift pump, the Saran tank filter acts as a wick to pick up fuel from the bottom of the tank and as a water filter; water is excluded on the basis of the difference in surface tension between the water and the sock material on the one hand and the fuel and the sock material on the other.
continued page 106.
By law in many states, water in fuel should be no more than 1/2 of 1%. That quantity of water will be absorbed by the fuel. Periodically, station operators check for water by putting a special gel on the dip stick. If it turns color, then water is present and it can be pumped out. Unfortunately, not all station operators are responsible and this prompted the use of the Saran sock.
The fuel pickup tube doesn’t reach the bottom of the tank. However, since the sock acts as a “wick” the fuel level can actually be lower than the level of the tube and fuel will be drawn out right down to empty. Also, with this design, the level of water in the tank can be much higher before water enters the fuel system. This is about five gallons. Water that gets into the tank will eventually be absorbed by good fuel and will pass harmlessly through the fuel system. Water will be absorbed at a rate of about one gallon per 1000 miles.
IMPOTANT
It is important that these two units not be interchanged. If the gas unit is installed on a diesel, it will cause intermittent problems with idle and power loss.
Ill try and connect the dots in my next post if it doesnt become obvious to you.
COLD WEATHER OPERATION (DIESEL ENGINES)
Diesel fuel is sensitive to temperature. All diesel fuel has a certain amount of heavy paraffin-like components, which are high in energy value and help improve fuel economy. But, when temperatures are less than about -7 °C (20°F), these heavy paraffin components begin turning into wax flakes. If temperatures are low enough, these flakes can build up on the fuel tank filter or the engine fuel filter and stop fuel from reaching the engine.
At low temperatures, wax flakes are more likely to form in Number 2-D fuel than Number 1-D (or a “winterized” 2-D) fuel. For best operation at temperatures below - 7 ° C (20°F) use Number 1-D, or Number 2-D which has been blended with Number 1-D for winter use.
If you are driving in temperatures less than - 1 8 °C (0°F) and do not have Number 1-D or “winterized” Number 2-D fuel in the fuel tank, kerosene can be added to reduce waxing. Kerosene should be added at a ratio of one gallon of kerosene to two gallons o f diesel fuel. Because of the lower energy value of kerosene (and reduced fuel economy) it should be added only when anticipated temperatures are less than - 1 8 °C (0°F). Once kerosene has been added the engine should be run for several minutes to mix the fuel.
The addition of kerosene will not unplug a filter plugged with wax. Warming a “waxed” filter 0 °C to 10°C (32°F to 50°F) will return the wax to solution. Filter replacement is not normally required.
To improve cold weather operation, an engine block heater and fuel heater are on your diesel engine. (See “Cold Weather Starting” under “Starting the Diesel Engine” in Section 1 of this manual for information on the block heater.) The fuel heater is designed to come on when the fuel temperature is less than 4°C (40 °F). It warms the fuel and helps stop wax flakes from building up in the fuel filter.
Fuel Tank Components
FILLER CAP
The filler cap contains a 2-way check valve. This will allow air to escape during the day when the tank heats up. In the event of a rollover, the valve will prevent spillage. Under pressure, no greater than 2 psi will exist. The valve must also allow air to enter the tank to replace the fuel used by the engine. A vacuum of no more than about one inch of mercury can accumulate in the tank and a slight hissing sound when removing the cap is normal. The fuel system is calibrated with the cap in place and any alterations will effect performance. Diesel fuel tank caps are specific to Diesels. Gasoline tank caps may fit in the diesel tank filler neck but should not be used.
FUEL PICKUP AND SENDING UNIT
See Figure 4-4. The fuel pick up, commonly known as the “ sock” has three functions:
1. Strain out large solids.
2. Act as a strainer to prevent entry of water.
3. Act as a wick to drain fuel down to the bottom of the tank since all pickup pipes do not reach the very bottom of the tank.
The tank filter is a Saran (Polyvinylidene Chloride) sock and is fastened to the fuel inlet line of the in-tank fuel filter and fuel pick-up assembly.
The fuel tank filter sock has a bypass valve which opens when the filter is covered with wax allowing fuel to flow to the fuel heater.
Without this sock fuel line heater would be ineffective because the fuel would be trapped in the tank. Since the bypass valve is located at the upper end of the sock, fuel will only be drawn into the waxed sock if the tank contains more than approximately 4 gallons of fuel. Therefore, it is important to maintain a minimum of 1/4 tank of fuel when temperatures are below 20 degrees F.
The Saran sock material has a nominal pore size of 130 microns. In addition to acting as a particle filter for the mechanical lift pump, the Saran tank filter acts as a wick to pick up fuel from the bottom of the tank and as a water filter; water is excluded on the basis of the difference in surface tension between the water and the sock material on the one hand and the fuel and the sock material on the other.
continued page 106.
By law in many states, water in fuel should be no more than 1/2 of 1%. That quantity of water will be absorbed by the fuel. Periodically, station operators check for water by putting a special gel on the dip stick. If it turns color, then water is present and it can be pumped out. Unfortunately, not all station operators are responsible and this prompted the use of the Saran sock.
The fuel pickup tube doesn’t reach the bottom of the tank. However, since the sock acts as a “wick” the fuel level can actually be lower than the level of the tube and fuel will be drawn out right down to empty. Also, with this design, the level of water in the tank can be much higher before water enters the fuel system. This is about five gallons. Water that gets into the tank will eventually be absorbed by good fuel and will pass harmlessly through the fuel system. Water will be absorbed at a rate of about one gallon per 1000 miles.
IMPOTANT
It is important that these two units not be interchanged. If the gas unit is installed on a diesel, it will cause intermittent problems with idle and power loss.
Ill try and connect the dots in my next post if it doesnt become obvious to you.
#14
04-28-2015, 05:48 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
Note the "nominal pore size of 130 microns" for the "diesel" sock..
Guessing but the gasoline "sock" is 100 microns, possibly lower...
Most "in-line" type fuel filters are rated for 40 microns or lower, often much lower making most any BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX FUEL FILTER an instant fuel restriction.
The increased restriction that quickly gets worse (smaller filter surface area) places more work on the lift pump which inturn draws more amps across the "under-rated" OPS contacts, or is it? Lets come back to that in a bit..
For Clarification if not educational... Lets understand just HOW the lift pump works.
Lift pumps dont SUCK fuel from the fuel tank!!!!!! Rather it pressurizes the fuel system post lift pump and in doing so it creates a concentrated low pressure zone at the lift pump inlet.
LISTEN CAREFULLY HERE.. Its atmospheric pressure (14 psi +/-) that is "pushing" the fuel out of the fuel tank towards the lift pump's "low pressure zone" as it attempts to EQUALIZE the pressure with atmosphere.
Adding the biggest baddest most expensive lift pump in the world thats COMPATABLE (limited to 9psi) with the 6.5 will not "suck" fuel any faster than the OEM unit, not without increasing the size of the supply (suction) fuel line PERIOD!!!!!!!
Still want to delete the strainer?
While I refill my coffee, read these informative tech articles on the subject..
Fuel Filter Selection
Pre-Pump Fuel Filtration
What is Fuel Polishing
This article highlights "emulsification" from the effects of having to fast/much fuel flow.
BRB
Guessing but the gasoline "sock" is 100 microns, possibly lower...
Most "in-line" type fuel filters are rated for 40 microns or lower, often much lower making most any BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX FUEL FILTER an instant fuel restriction.
The increased restriction that quickly gets worse (smaller filter surface area) places more work on the lift pump which inturn draws more amps across the "under-rated" OPS contacts, or is it? Lets come back to that in a bit..
For Clarification if not educational... Lets understand just HOW the lift pump works.
Lift pumps dont SUCK fuel from the fuel tank!!!!!! Rather it pressurizes the fuel system post lift pump and in doing so it creates a concentrated low pressure zone at the lift pump inlet.
LISTEN CAREFULLY HERE.. Its atmospheric pressure (14 psi +/-) that is "pushing" the fuel out of the fuel tank towards the lift pump's "low pressure zone" as it attempts to EQUALIZE the pressure with atmosphere.
Adding the biggest baddest most expensive lift pump in the world thats COMPATABLE (limited to 9psi) with the 6.5 will not "suck" fuel any faster than the OEM unit, not without increasing the size of the supply (suction) fuel line PERIOD!!!!!!!
Still want to delete the strainer?
While I refill my coffee, read these informative tech articles on the subject..
Fuel Filter Selection
Pre-Pump Fuel Filtration
What is Fuel Polishing
This article highlights "emulsification" from the effects of having to fast/much fuel flow.
BRB
#15
04-28-2015, 07:25 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
Water issues aside..
Diesel Fuel "thickens" like motor oil as temps drop, eventually reaching the fuels cloud point.
Its for this reason, GMs low pressure fuel supply system is designed much like a ships bilge pump. The strainer is designed to keeps out larger particles that may restrict, block and/or damage the lift pump while also providing a "by-pass" should the strainer begin to gell up.
The OEM lift pump is designed to pump mud from the tank to the FFM where the FUEL is polished AFTER its been heated up via the fuel heater. But lets not get ahead of ourselves..
Lift pump operates much like an actuator shuttling a straw fitted with one-way check valves. The 12vt "actuator" mechanism is self regulated (internal circuit board) and relies on pre-set "head pressure" (resistance) to overcome, slow and regulate the actuator or shuttling speed as needed to maintain the desired fuel pressure whenever 12vts is present.
Lift pumps fail- flow thru design permits healthy injection pumps with unrestricted FFM elements to "draw" fuel from the tank, let me rephrase. It permits atmospheric pressure to push and LIFT the fuel to the FFM and onto the INJECTION PUMPS fuel inlets natural low pressure zone.
With INOP/FAULTY LP, if the strainer or FFM element is the least bit restricted and/or theres "hidden" air leaks (lose hose clamps for ex) or the system is compromised or neglected (deteriorated fuel hoses, o-rings, etc), will often expose air leaks.
Air leaks can occur even when theres no system breach in the form of cavitation and/or vaporization.... Basically when subjected to a vacuum, fuel tends to release air molecules naturally trapped within the fuel. Think fumes, gaseous fumes like air can be compressed and in turn, cause cylinder imbalances as the IP purges those big gulps..
The lift pump, if atmosphere pressure can NOT replenish the fuel fast enough to keep up with lift pump demand. The lift pump begins to cavitate introducing fuel vapors (eg air) into the fuel injection system. The liquid fuel also keeps the lift pump from overheating when fuel demands are high...
However if theres no fuel to create head pressure or cool the lift pump, the lift pump runs wide open trying to keep up "hammering" itself (loud) and quickly overheats which draws more amps* which will quickly damage the OPS and even new lift pumps, specially those with LPR mods (OBD-1 models)....
Thats why the OPS is so touchy on the early 6.5s as it didnt have the PCM monitoring and/or providing redundant power source.
Oh, the hammer effect can occur to DB2 too, more so than DS4s which tend to "shut off" and is often misdiagnosed as just another passing PMD Goblin but I digress....
I know you have a 6.2, not sure if it has the mechanical or electrical lift pump but there was a reason GM changed to the electric lift pump on the 6.5 diesel models, and no it wasnt for a convenient place to drain the turbo. GM simply took full advantage of the s'ituation..
GM removed the mechanical lift pump and placed the electrical lift pump just forward the fuel tank specifically to change system characteristics from an 90% (vacuum) atmospheric pressure fuel delivery design that is most suseptable to air leaks, to a 95% pressurized system with minimal chances of air leaks DURING normal operations in preparation for the 6.5s "revolutionary" EFI pump thats extremely sensitive to fuel aeration, fuel contamination, any restricted fuel delivery, etc.. Far more so than its predecessor..
Any questions? Comments and/or further discussion is welcome.. Know Im forgettin' somethin'..
Time to refill my coffee again..
Diesel Fuel "thickens" like motor oil as temps drop, eventually reaching the fuels cloud point.
Its for this reason, GMs low pressure fuel supply system is designed much like a ships bilge pump. The strainer is designed to keeps out larger particles that may restrict, block and/or damage the lift pump while also providing a "by-pass" should the strainer begin to gell up.
The OEM lift pump is designed to pump mud from the tank to the FFM where the FUEL is polished AFTER its been heated up via the fuel heater. But lets not get ahead of ourselves..
Lift pump operates much like an actuator shuttling a straw fitted with one-way check valves. The 12vt "actuator" mechanism is self regulated (internal circuit board) and relies on pre-set "head pressure" (resistance) to overcome, slow and regulate the actuator or shuttling speed as needed to maintain the desired fuel pressure whenever 12vts is present.
Lift pumps fail- flow thru design permits healthy injection pumps with unrestricted FFM elements to "draw" fuel from the tank, let me rephrase. It permits atmospheric pressure to push and LIFT the fuel to the FFM and onto the INJECTION PUMPS fuel inlets natural low pressure zone.
With INOP/FAULTY LP, if the strainer or FFM element is the least bit restricted and/or theres "hidden" air leaks (lose hose clamps for ex) or the system is compromised or neglected (deteriorated fuel hoses, o-rings, etc), will often expose air leaks.
Air leaks can occur even when theres no system breach in the form of cavitation and/or vaporization.... Basically when subjected to a vacuum, fuel tends to release air molecules naturally trapped within the fuel. Think fumes, gaseous fumes like air can be compressed and in turn, cause cylinder imbalances as the IP purges those big gulps..
The lift pump, if atmosphere pressure can NOT replenish the fuel fast enough to keep up with lift pump demand. The lift pump begins to cavitate introducing fuel vapors (eg air) into the fuel injection system. The liquid fuel also keeps the lift pump from overheating when fuel demands are high...
However if theres no fuel to create head pressure or cool the lift pump, the lift pump runs wide open trying to keep up "hammering" itself (loud) and quickly overheats which draws more amps* which will quickly damage the OPS and even new lift pumps, specially those with LPR mods (OBD-1 models)....
Thats why the OPS is so touchy on the early 6.5s as it didnt have the PCM monitoring and/or providing redundant power source.
Oh, the hammer effect can occur to DB2 too, more so than DS4s which tend to "shut off" and is often misdiagnosed as just another passing PMD Goblin but I digress....
I know you have a 6.2, not sure if it has the mechanical or electrical lift pump but there was a reason GM changed to the electric lift pump on the 6.5 diesel models, and no it wasnt for a convenient place to drain the turbo. GM simply took full advantage of the s'ituation..
GM removed the mechanical lift pump and placed the electrical lift pump just forward the fuel tank specifically to change system characteristics from an 90% (vacuum) atmospheric pressure fuel delivery design that is most suseptable to air leaks, to a 95% pressurized system with minimal chances of air leaks DURING normal operations in preparation for the 6.5s "revolutionary" EFI pump thats extremely sensitive to fuel aeration, fuel contamination, any restricted fuel delivery, etc.. Far more so than its predecessor..
Any questions? Comments and/or further discussion is welcome.. Know Im forgettin' somethin'..
Time to refill my coffee again..
#16
04-28-2015, 07:50 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
Finally...
If you MUST delete the fuel strainer and insist on upgrading to a supercharged lift pump and/or some high dollar filtration system. UNLESS you increase the fuel supply (suction)line size, your wasting your time if not your money and it very well create more problems than it resolves...
My suggestion.. Several aftermarket suppliers offer fuel tank "sump kits" w/ 1/2" or larger supply line previsions..
Sump kits can be installed top of (pick up tube) or bottom of the tank. I would suggest the bottom if for nothing else the convenience of it all.. No need to drop the tank but be careful not to damage the OEM fuel sender when the hole saw pops thru.
Provides quick access inside the tank if necessary for cleaning and/or draining the tank of excess water and/or contaminates.
I would suggest using the OEM diesel sock retrofitted to the sump kit albeit top or bottom mount..
If your aftermarket lift pump requires a dedicated return line, the fuel senders unused fuel supply line is an option with a sump kit..
Do not "tee" a lift pumps dedicated return into the vehicles fuel return system. It will act much like a restriction and likely overpressurize the OEM return system and instantly shut the engine down beit a DS or DB pump if it doesnt adversely affect performance first......
Edit. And if you install an aftermarket filtration system or simply an in-line fuel filter.. Dont forget that in cold weather operations, those unheated upgrades and/or additions may restrict fuel flow even more..
If you MUST delete the fuel strainer and insist on upgrading to a supercharged lift pump and/or some high dollar filtration system. UNLESS you increase the fuel supply (suction)line size, your wasting your time if not your money and it very well create more problems than it resolves...
My suggestion.. Several aftermarket suppliers offer fuel tank "sump kits" w/ 1/2" or larger supply line previsions..
Sump kits can be installed top of (pick up tube) or bottom of the tank. I would suggest the bottom if for nothing else the convenience of it all.. No need to drop the tank but be careful not to damage the OEM fuel sender when the hole saw pops thru.
Provides quick access inside the tank if necessary for cleaning and/or draining the tank of excess water and/or contaminates.
I would suggest using the OEM diesel sock retrofitted to the sump kit albeit top or bottom mount..
If your aftermarket lift pump requires a dedicated return line, the fuel senders unused fuel supply line is an option with a sump kit..
Do not "tee" a lift pumps dedicated return into the vehicles fuel return system. It will act much like a restriction and likely overpressurize the OEM return system and instantly shut the engine down beit a DS or DB pump if it doesnt adversely affect performance first......
Edit. And if you install an aftermarket filtration system or simply an in-line fuel filter.. Dont forget that in cold weather operations, those unheated upgrades and/or additions may restrict fuel flow even more..
Last edited by HeavyChevy95; 04-28-2015 at 07:55 AM.
#17
04-28-2015, 07:53 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
#18
04-29-2015, 01:52 PM
Wow. That is a lot of information. Thanks a lot for taking the time.
I am still absorbing it so I haven't determined what course of action to take just yet. However, I was planning to pull the bed off to replace the other tank so any modifications to the one I just fixed shouldn't be too difficult while I am in there.
I am still absorbing it so I haven't determined what course of action to take just yet. However, I was planning to pull the bed off to replace the other tank so any modifications to the one I just fixed shouldn't be too difficult while I am in there.
#19
05-04-2015, 01:44 PM
I'm back. Please don't take the delayed response as a sign that I don't appreciate all of that info. I have just had a hectic couple of weeks.
Anyway, Reading through this I do have some questions. Fist, I should explain my whole system (or as much of it as I understand since I inherited someone else's work). The mechanical pump that the 6.2 normally has has been replaced with an electric lift pump and dual fuel filter system. I have't yet checked the fuel pressure after the lift pump but I am curious about that and whether the lift pump is sufficient.
I like the idea of the tank sump. Most of them seem to work without a strainer but I really don't like the idea of the fuel lines being exposed to large debris. assuming the sock on the new sending unit is not adequate for diesel, are there replacement options? I haven't had any luck finding any.
Anyway, Reading through this I do have some questions. Fist, I should explain my whole system (or as much of it as I understand since I inherited someone else's work). The mechanical pump that the 6.2 normally has has been replaced with an electric lift pump and dual fuel filter system. I have't yet checked the fuel pressure after the lift pump but I am curious about that and whether the lift pump is sufficient.
I like the idea of the tank sump. Most of them seem to work without a strainer but I really don't like the idea of the fuel lines being exposed to large debris. assuming the sock on the new sending unit is not adequate for diesel, are there replacement options? I haven't had any luck finding any.
#20
05-04-2015, 05:25 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
NP, not like Im gettin' paid by the hour.. If so, please take your time. 
GM# 25115224 Fuel Lift Pump or ACDelco EP158 (for '93 6.5 model)
GM# 25055272 Fuel Strainer or ACDelco TS1012 (fits GM 3/8" pick up tubes).
I hear rockauto[dot]com has 'em for $20.00More info.
I suspect a smart fella could adapt the OEM strainer onto a http://www.ebay.com/itm/FASS-Airdog-Fuelab-Diesel-Pickup-Fuel-Tank-Sump-Cummins-Powerstroke-Duramax/121404195678?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20141212152715%26meid%3Ded2ff86aac6c4f5c8ff6e60ae55c053d%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D12%26rkt%3D26%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D111010997236 check out there simple installation video..
IIRC, theres an entertaining video putting there sump through multiple torture test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfFM...ature=youtu.be
GM# 25115224 Fuel Lift Pump or ACDelco EP158 (for '93 6.5 model)
GM# 25055272 Fuel Strainer or ACDelco TS1012 (fits GM 3/8" pick up tubes).
I hear rockauto[dot]com has 'em for $20.00More info.
I suspect a smart fella could adapt the OEM strainer onto a http://www.ebay.com/itm/FASS-Airdog-Fuelab-Diesel-Pickup-Fuel-Tank-Sump-Cummins-Powerstroke-Duramax/121404195678?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20141212152715%26meid%3Ded2ff86aac6c4f5c8ff6e60ae55c053d%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D12%26rkt%3D26%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D111010997236 check out there simple installation video..
IIRC, theres an entertaining video putting there sump through multiple torture test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfFM...ature=youtu.be
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fivepointohno
5.9L CR Performance
12
01-25-2016 01:07 PM
