WIX or Napa Gold and Silver are the same thing,every other Friday Napa has 1/2 off filter day and I can do all mine for less than $20

So get a new filter just in case. Is priming it a challenge once I sort out the leak

You can crack open the filter top n t valve and jump a power wire to the LP to purge the air out. Saves alot of cranking but probably not necessary.

Of course purging the air from the filter is needed.
otherwise it would take an obscene amount of cranking to expel the iar.

I also like to crack an injector line loose to speed up air removal and have a quicker start.

beware of moving parts after the truck starts when you tighten the loose line back up.

What I meant to say is that the jump wire probably isn't necessary . I think their's a couple easier ways to get the LP to run. I always forget and fall back on the jump wire.

The easiest way that I know to jump the LP is to place a heavier gauge wire in the G terminal under the dash to the positive terminal on the drivers batteryhttps://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...AuKUyfjiz64hED

Tried lookin up a seal for the heater side no luck. Anyone know what size o ring it is before I start tearing into it this is my daily truck so my time for fixin it is limited

Will see if I can find them for you:

Fuel Filter Heater O Ring - OEM: 12511962
Water In Fuel O Ring - OEM: 12511959
Fuel Filter Retaining Nut - OEM: 12511963

Thank you greatly appreciated. I searched pepboys advanced auto AutoZone and nothin. I'm just gonna replace filter again and probably whatever lines are there too

Called local Chevy dealer 11 for fuel filter heater o ring says I have to buy a new sensor because there's no o ring and that's 179 so can I just find o rings that fit for cheap