Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

What is your preferred oil brand and weight for the 6.5? How about filter? Gasket?

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Old 04-25-2014, 01:02 PM
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Default What is your preferred oil brand and weight for the 6.5? How about filter? Gasket?

So in the midst of trying to get my new clutch figured out I thought I would get in a oil change on my 96 6.5 with 198K miles. Here in AL we are looking at temps in the low 40s and highs right around 75-85. Truck runs temps between 200 - 220 degrees when warmed up.

I last ran with a Mobil 1 - Extended Performance filter Part #M1-302 and for oil I used 2 quarts of Lucas Oil Stablizer and 5 quarts of Rotella. To be honest I do not remember what weight I ran (it is written down in the trucks log book). Pretty sad that I can not remember huh?


So I do not wish to start a war with this question - but what kind of oil do you run and what weight for the temps I am seeing?

Also what filter do you like?

I have access to NAPPA, AutoZone and Advance as well as Westwood.

Do you ever replace the gasket on the drain plug for the oil pan? If so do you use plastic or copper gasket? If copper what part# please.

Thank you and have a great weekend!

~GOD BLESS~

john
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:49 PM
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15-40 Rotell T and I go to my Napa on half price filter Fridays Napa=Wix my 93 has a plastic washer I replace only when it leaks,And have you looked at the actual temp with a scan tool?? might have some variation with the gauge and actual operating temp??
 

Last edited by Mayhem; 04-25-2014 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:03 PM
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Default Thank you for the info - so think I might be runnning a little hot?

I appreciate the info on the oil, filter and washer for the pan bolt.

With regards to the temp I am just going off what the dash guage reads. What kind of scan tool do I need to get the actual temp? I assume it is a plug in type.

I do have the laser pointer temp guage - but I do not thnki that is what you are referring to..

Thank you

~GOD BLESS~

john
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:27 PM
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A good OBD II scan tool will plug under the dash a code reader will not do this I have a actron that will do OBD I and II, I have a 97 gas burner that shows warmer on the dash than my tool don't know if this is happening in your case but it may give you a place to start.
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:15 PM
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Default Excellent! Sounds like my next investment...

That sounds like it would be good to have. I need to get one for sure.

Thank you!

Have a great weekend - drive safe.

~GOD BLESS~

john
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:45 PM
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2 qts of Lucas Oil stabilizer will make your oil really thick. If you use Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil, you dont need to add any oil additive(s). You will likely increase fuel mileage, and alittle HP & TQ to boot! Your engine temp will probably also go down a few degrees as well. Your engine will love you for it.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 01:28 PM
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Default Update post-oil change...

Thank you for the advice to not add 2 qrts of Lucas. I went with Rotella T 15W40 6 qrts and 1 qrt of Lucas. Used a Napa/Wix Oil Filter and a new plastic gasket for the drain pan plug.

The truck runs nice and after a good 45 minute drive the temp is hanging on the line between 160 and the 210 mark on the dash guage. Since it is in the middle of those two numbers I guess that would be 185 degrees?

Oil pressure, again based on the dash guage, is right past 40 psi @ idle.

Still need to look into a good scan tool for temp and to have for "when needed" times...

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it very much.

~GOD BLESS~

john
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:11 PM
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Just keep in mind, the thicker the oil, the longer it takes for it to get to vital engine parts, ie: rod bearings, crank bearings, cam bearings, rocker arms, rocker shaft etc..... You never want these parts to starve for oil. A thinner oil or synthetic oil will get to these parts much faster. If you feel you need to run Lucas oil stabilizer, try the Lucas "Pure Synthetic" stabilizer. This is good stuff and very slick. Less friction for your engine, essentially turning dino oil into a synthetic blend oil. Colder weather will cause your oil to thicken as well.
I only use Lucas "Pure Synthetic" in the summer when towing my 9800 lb travel trailer, while vacationing. Texas gets damned hot in the summer. I use Mobil 1 5w-40 Synthetic oil , Rotella T6 5w-40 Synthetic oil, and sometimes Chevron Delo 400 5w-40 Synthetic oil. Whatever is available, but only those three brands of Synthetic (just preference). In the winter, the thinner 5w-40 Synthetic will travel faster through the engine, decreasing the chance of oil starvation. Most engine wear occurs during cold start-ups.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:28 PM
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Default Make good sense...

I run Lucas in all my gas burners - and I do run the synthetic Lucas in my wifes car that gets full synthetic oil only. I noticed while picking out the Lucas that it said on the Synthetic bottle "Reccomended for Powerstroke (Ford) engines" and I thought about getting it. But I did not since at that time I was planning on running two quarts of the regular Lucas...

You are spot on about wear occuring during start up and dry starts are the worst on any type of motor. I noticed the oil got pretty dark pretty fast (after this mornings change) - so I think I will shorten the change interval on this run to about 2,000 miles. Then I can run some partial or full synthetic oil and the full synthetic Lucas.

I do need to run an oil analysis on this motor. It runs like a champ so I am expecting good things.

Thanks again for your advice and for the detail of what you do when you know you are going to be towing etc... I do appreciate it very much.

~GOD BLESS~

john
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:44 PM
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My job here is done............go forth and burn rubber grasshopper.
 
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