1995 Chevy 6.5 mods????
#12
01-20-2014, 05:30 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
Make sure you get a flanged connection from the down pipe to the exhaust. You'll be glad when it comes time to service the glow plugs, the ground wires, the transmission and the injectors. Mostly the injectors. Hopefully you never have to change the transmission.
Get a stainless exhaust if you plan to keep the truck. My exhaust is about 5 or 6 years old and starting to rust.
It is probably even better to use stainless hardware/clamps, they seem to go shortly before the exhaust.
For good quality PMD harness check leroydiesel
Do not use pennsacola diesel. They have inferior products/Dprman and the resistor box was empty.
angelofishes on Ebay has good stuff, but he used to only sell the gray Standyne. I had 2 failures with the gray Standynes and will not try them again.
I've also heard bad reports with the Dormans and will not use them either.
I had my best luck with the old original black Standynes, mounted on the intake.
Get a K-47 air box. The air filter box used on 1997 and newer GM 6.5 diesel trucks, Tahoes, Yukons and Suburbans.
Check your engine oil cooler lines. If they are leaking, change them. Do not use OEM style lines. I have not seen any that lasted any amount of time. I tried several sets and had 100% leakage. Get a kit from leroydiesel or lubricationspecialist with stainless braided lines. inlinetube.com can make you a custom set. I install a T in the return line from the cooler to feed the bypass filter.
Install a FS2500 or Amsoil Bypass filter.
Use synthetic fluids throughout.
I use Amsoil 5W30 diesel engine oil and 5W40 Mobile1 diesel engine oil.
Use a good quality oil filter. Do a search. Amsoil, Mobile1, Baldwin and a few others always rank high in filter ratings.
Do the battery post mod when the time presents itself. The sidepost battery bolts are a constant issue. Use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" 3/8" coarse thread Allen screw to replace the bolt. I use stainless. Brass or steel will work. I then use a nut to hold the cables on tight. If the Allen screw has much pitch, cup or point, cut the end off flat or you may possibly have the same issue the battery bolts present.
I use 3 washers per cable, that fit inside the rubber ends on the battery cables with the Allen screw mod. The washers that are for your front flex brake lines will work fine. They have the correct inside diameter and a small enough outside diameter that they fit inside the rubber. Many people cut the rubber off. I prefer not to.
Use Kopper Kote around the connections to protect from oxidation on these and most electrical connections. You can order Kopper kote on Amazon. Use it or other anti-seeze everywhere. If you take out a bolt, coat it before you put it back in.n You'll thank yourself later.
Anybody that has been around me, can tell you, I use the stuff vary liberally and I still have the bottom 1/4" of a quart can to use, I got in 1986.
Add extra grounds. Clean the grounds as you go. I add an extra ground from the battery to the frame by the starter, to the stud at the back of the engine with the strap from the firewall, Remove the battery and add a ground to the battery box bolt and a ground to the PMD heat sink.
Make sure the ground to the injection pump is there and in good condition.
I have heard, many time, of the stud at the back of the engine, losing ground. The extra ground wire from the battery fixes that issue. If you remove that stud, it requires pipe dope or Teflon tape for sealant. I use both. Put the Teflon tape on and then a light coat of pipe dope. There may also be another small wire on the stud next to that one. I put them all on one stud and always use a washer on top of the eyelets to help prevent them from turning with the nut as you tighten and loosen.
I also add a nut to the top of the stud - under the eyelets to give a place to put a wrench when removing the top nut. A lot of times the stud wants to come out when you try to access the ground wires. the extra nut under the eyelets gives you easier access to hold it with a wrench.
I also add a ground to the heater blower motor. I use a double spade connector at the blower ground and make a short loop to the dash mount bolt and few inches away.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Could you post a link? I'm not seeing Armory at the top of the page.
Get a stainless exhaust if you plan to keep the truck. My exhaust is about 5 or 6 years old and starting to rust.
It is probably even better to use stainless hardware/clamps, they seem to go shortly before the exhaust.
For good quality PMD harness check leroydiesel
Do not use pennsacola diesel. They have inferior products/Dprman and the resistor box was empty.
angelofishes on Ebay has good stuff, but he used to only sell the gray Standyne. I had 2 failures with the gray Standynes and will not try them again.
I've also heard bad reports with the Dormans and will not use them either.
I had my best luck with the old original black Standynes, mounted on the intake.
Get a K-47 air box. The air filter box used on 1997 and newer GM 6.5 diesel trucks, Tahoes, Yukons and Suburbans.
Check your engine oil cooler lines. If they are leaking, change them. Do not use OEM style lines. I have not seen any that lasted any amount of time. I tried several sets and had 100% leakage. Get a kit from leroydiesel or lubricationspecialist with stainless braided lines. inlinetube.com can make you a custom set. I install a T in the return line from the cooler to feed the bypass filter.
Install a FS2500 or Amsoil Bypass filter.
Use synthetic fluids throughout.
I use Amsoil 5W30 diesel engine oil and 5W40 Mobile1 diesel engine oil.
Use a good quality oil filter. Do a search. Amsoil, Mobile1, Baldwin and a few others always rank high in filter ratings.
Do the battery post mod when the time presents itself. The sidepost battery bolts are a constant issue. Use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" 3/8" coarse thread Allen screw to replace the bolt. I use stainless. Brass or steel will work. I then use a nut to hold the cables on tight. If the Allen screw has much pitch, cup or point, cut the end off flat or you may possibly have the same issue the battery bolts present.
I use 3 washers per cable, that fit inside the rubber ends on the battery cables with the Allen screw mod. The washers that are for your front flex brake lines will work fine. They have the correct inside diameter and a small enough outside diameter that they fit inside the rubber. Many people cut the rubber off. I prefer not to.
Use Kopper Kote around the connections to protect from oxidation on these and most electrical connections. You can order Kopper kote on Amazon. Use it or other anti-seeze everywhere. If you take out a bolt, coat it before you put it back in.n You'll thank yourself later.
Anybody that has been around me, can tell you, I use the stuff vary liberally and I still have the bottom 1/4" of a quart can to use, I got in 1986.
Add extra grounds. Clean the grounds as you go. I add an extra ground from the battery to the frame by the starter, to the stud at the back of the engine with the strap from the firewall, Remove the battery and add a ground to the battery box bolt and a ground to the PMD heat sink.
Make sure the ground to the injection pump is there and in good condition.
I have heard, many time, of the stud at the back of the engine, losing ground. The extra ground wire from the battery fixes that issue. If you remove that stud, it requires pipe dope or Teflon tape for sealant. I use both. Put the Teflon tape on and then a light coat of pipe dope. There may also be another small wire on the stud next to that one. I put them all on one stud and always use a washer on top of the eyelets to help prevent them from turning with the nut as you tighten and loosen.
I also add a nut to the top of the stud - under the eyelets to give a place to put a wrench when removing the top nut. A lot of times the stud wants to come out when you try to access the ground wires. the extra nut under the eyelets gives you easier access to hold it with a wrench.
I also add a ground to the heater blower motor. I use a double spade connector at the blower ground and make a short loop to the dash mount bolt and few inches away.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Could you post a link? I'm not seeing Armory at the top of the page.
Last edited by jrsavoie; 01-20-2014 at 05:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
01-20-2014, 04:12 PM
DO NOT mount the PMD/heatsink combo on the intake.
The frt bumper is the best location.
Replace the extension harness though since there is a known problem with the weatherpack seal on some harnesses,Leroy Diesel is a good place to get the harness.
Here is a mod list for you:
I will also upload a hand drawing of a OPS relay mod:
google A Team Turbo for a direct bolt on replacement turbo.
Google holset hx40 6.5 diesel for a diy upgrade.
The frt bumper is the best location.
Replace the extension harness though since there is a known problem with the weatherpack seal on some harnesses,Leroy Diesel is a good place to get the harness.
Here is a mod list for you:
I will also upload a hand drawing of a OPS relay mod:
google A Team Turbo for a direct bolt on replacement turbo.
Google holset hx40 6.5 diesel for a diy upgrade.
#16
01-21-2014, 04:33 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
I agree with all this.
Back when mounting the PMD on the intake was the thing to do, I actually had my best PMD longevity with the old black Standynes mounted there. Since they came out with the Flight Systems and the gray Standynes I haven't had any dependability or longevity from PMD's
I'm hoping the new version of the Flight Systems will be the answer. Can't find any new Black Standyne PMD's anymore
Do a search for Dual lift pump relay upgrade and you should find a schematic that Buddy drew.
Thefre is a schematic for the relay mod here : OPS wiring 6.5 TD - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
Back when mounting the PMD on the intake was the thing to do, I actually had my best PMD longevity with the old black Standynes mounted there. Since they came out with the Flight Systems and the gray Standynes I haven't had any dependability or longevity from PMD's
I'm hoping the new version of the Flight Systems will be the answer. Can't find any new Black Standyne PMD's anymore
Do a search for Dual lift pump relay upgrade and you should find a schematic that Buddy drew.
Thefre is a schematic for the relay mod here : OPS wiring 6.5 TD - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
DO NOT mount the PMD/heatsink combo on the intake.
The frt bumper is the best location.
Replace the extension harness though since there is a known problem with the weatherpack seal on some harnesses,Leroy Diesel is a good place to get the harness.
Here is a mod list for you:
I will also upload a hand drawing of a OPS relay mod:
google A Team Turbo for a direct bolt on replacement turbo.
Google holset hx40 6.5 diesel for a diy upgrade.
The frt bumper is the best location.
Replace the extension harness though since there is a known problem with the weatherpack seal on some harnesses,Leroy Diesel is a good place to get the harness.
Here is a mod list for you:
I will also upload a hand drawing of a OPS relay mod:
google A Team Turbo for a direct bolt on replacement turbo.
Google holset hx40 6.5 diesel for a diy upgrade.
#20
01-21-2014, 01:32 PM
There really is no betterPMD-they all are poor.
As for the dual relay drawing it should have been in the MNX mods list I attatched.
The drawing I made is very simple-it shows where to connect wires to the relay and where they come from-it's not an electrical schematic exactly but more a straightforward follow what you see sort of thing.
the arcs indicate where wires pass by each other without connecting,the dots indicate connection points.
As for the dual relay drawing it should have been in the MNX mods list I attatched.
The drawing I made is very simple-it shows where to connect wires to the relay and where they come from-it's not an electrical schematic exactly but more a straightforward follow what you see sort of thing.
the arcs indicate where wires pass by each other without connecting,the dots indicate connection points.
