6.5 smoke from air filter housing.
I recently bought a broke down 92 k3500 6.5 turbo just for the flatbed on it. I was told the engine was a junk and would never run.
The other day while we were pulling it to the garage I thought what the heck lets see if we can pull start it. 10 seconds later it was running like a champ.
I drove it 10 miles or so before shutting it down with no problems. The one thing I noticed was smoke coming out of the oil dipstick sleeve while it was running. Then when I shut it off smoke came from a crack in the air filter housing.
Anybody know what could be causing this? I would hate to go buy a new starter and glow plugs to find out the motor really is junk. Thanks
The other day while we were pulling it to the garage I thought what the heck lets see if we can pull start it. 10 seconds later it was running like a champ.
I drove it 10 miles or so before shutting it down with no problems. The one thing I noticed was smoke coming out of the oil dipstick sleeve while it was running. Then when I shut it off smoke came from a crack in the air filter housing.
Anybody know what could be causing this? I would hate to go buy a new starter and glow plugs to find out the motor really is junk. Thanks
Last edited by burnhedge; Jan 17, 2014 at 07:12 PM.
If it is not alot of smoke it's no big deal just a little blowbye,if it's alot your rings might be shot so time for a rebuild.
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You might just need to clean your cdr to?

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You might just need to clean your cdr to?
Last edited by Mase; Jan 19, 2014 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thanks for the advice. Checked the cdr today. It was pretty nasty. Wasnt sure how to clean it so I soaked and flushed it with diesel. Seems to have helped the smoke issue.
Ok I'll do that thanks. Now I have a whole new issue.
I opened the t valve to drain any water that may have built up in the filter. No fuel and the truck died. Same issue when I tried the drain on the top of the filter.
so I know now that I have a lift pump issue. Checked the fuse and power at the pump. Barely enough power to light up a test light. Also I only have power when the truck is running.
Should the LP kick on as soon as the key is turned? I know its tied into the OPS somehow but dont really understand it.
what could be causing the low voltage?
since the LP only gets power when the truck is running I cant hear if its kicking on or not.
I opened the t valve to drain any water that may have built up in the filter. No fuel and the truck died. Same issue when I tried the drain on the top of the filter.
so I know now that I have a lift pump issue. Checked the fuse and power at the pump. Barely enough power to light up a test light. Also I only have power when the truck is running.
Should the LP kick on as soon as the key is turned? I know its tied into the OPS somehow but dont really understand it.
what could be causing the low voltage?
since the LP only gets power when the truck is running I cant hear if its kicking on or not.
The OPS is a multi contact switch that powers the LP and oil pressure gauge when the engine runs on 95 or older trucks and can fail to power the LP but still work the gauge fine,the LP relay only operates when the engine is cranking.
Your symptoms indicate a bad OPS for starters-replace with AC Delco ONLY and add the OPS relaymod for long term reliability,this is a dawing for the relay mod I made:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...ml#post1044937 post 14
if you are happy with wiring add a starter bump button or momentary switch under the hood in a handy spot for bleeding fuel filters when you change them by connecting the switch between terminals 87 and 30.
Your symptoms indicate a bad OPS for starters-replace with AC Delco ONLY and add the OPS relaymod for long term reliability,this is a dawing for the relay mod I made:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...ml#post1044937 post 14
if you are happy with wiring add a starter bump button or momentary switch under the hood in a handy spot for bleeding fuel filters when you change them by connecting the switch between terminals 87 and 30.
Last edited by racer55; Jan 21, 2014 at 06:50 PM.
Could I bypass the OPS and wire the LP to a circuit that only has power while the key is on? Or would the pump burn up trying to pump fuel while im waiting on the glow plugs?
The reason against using a manual switch is that it's a safety device when run through the OPS aqnd a relay mod.
If you use a toggle switch and get in an accident where you are knocked out-you can't shut it off,the resulting possability of a fire would BBQ you which is fine since you did it to yourself.
But the emergency people and whoever you got into the accident with would be victims of something that needed not have happened-replacing the OPS with new Delco and and adding a relay is easy enough to let you sleep good at night-the toggle switch idea has the potential for other victims even if you do make it out alive.
If you use a toggle switch and get in an accident where you are knocked out-you can't shut it off,the resulting possability of a fire would BBQ you which is fine since you did it to yourself.
But the emergency people and whoever you got into the accident with would be victims of something that needed not have happened-replacing the OPS with new Delco and and adding a relay is easy enough to let you sleep good at night-the toggle switch idea has the potential for other victims even if you do make it out alive.


