I just bought a 2000 3500hd from my cousin, he bought the truck from a guy who owned a car hauling business, with the understanding the motor was blown. My cousin bought the truck almost a year ago an it has just sat in the yard since, I finally decided to try to start it an it did turn over but not very fast. So the story goes, the guy who owned it said one of his drivers didn't put oil in it an blew the motor an he had just bought a couple new trucks so it wasn't worth it to him to fix that one. I checked the oil an it was full but very dirty, I would imagine if the oil was low enough to blow the motor an u added more it would be a little cleaner than it is. The truck has 111,106 miles, where should I start? any suggestions I would really appreciate.

 

Jumper the lift pump and check for fuel. Change the oil and check the oil with a magnet.

Get new baTTERIES BEFORE TRYING TO START. iT WILL NOT START IF IT IS NOT CRANKING FAST ENOUGH

 

Ok thanks I'll start with that

 

A 2000 should have a LP prime function built in that runs when the glow plugs operate for a few seconds,unlike the way that the 95 and older LP operates.
You can remove the LP relay and jumper terminals 30 and 87 to have a longer LP run time though.

I would charge the batteries and make sure that the battery cables are clean and secure.
I would also urge you not to use a charger on boost or boost the engine with a running vehicle-the glow plugs can't tollerate violtage over 12v-they will bvurn out.

DO NOT use starting fluid with a 6.5,it will also kill glow plugs and harm the engine.

Crack an injector fuel line loose and ensure that fuel comes out the line while cranking the engine over and watch for smoke from the exhaust and note color.

Also watch for bubbles in the coolant overflow tank-bubbles there indicate a blown head gasket or cracked head/block.

 

On 96 and newer there is usually a female spade connector in back of the under hood fuse box, by the firewall that you can jumper with a fused hot wire. It can sometimes be a pain to see.

I usually run about 3/4 gallon out the T drain first, into a gallon pickle jar. Note the flow and condition of the fuel. I would probably just change the fuel filter, Or check it at the very least. I use a electric fuel pump to suck out the filter bowl and run it to a container. Make sure the bowl is clean. I usually use Sea Foam to clean the bowl with a flux brush. Then I suck it out again.

Put the filter back in and prime the system. When I priming I run more fuel out the T drain and run a clear hose from the filter bleeder to the container. That way I can see when it runs out of bubbles. I usually crack the bleeder a few times after the first time it shows NO air bubbles. Usually air bubbles reappear a few times.

Might not hurt to pull the line to the Injection pump while you are there and run some fuel out into a container from there also. You want to have the lift pump running when reattaching the feeder line to the IP so it is bled before you put the hose clamp back on>

A booster charger can also take out a PMD. And there is nothing good about ether and a 6.5

You can check the glow plugs also. It's best to use 2 continuity testers so you can test the glow plug wires and the glow plugs as you go. You can test the glow plugs by pulling the connector off and testing for continuity from the spade connector and the other lead to ground.

I hook a test lead to the glow plug controller and test for continuity to the end of the lead I just pulled off while testing the glow plug. You can do it with one tester, but if you have 2 available it goes faster and less jacking around.

If you have continuity all over, check for voltage at a glow plug while the glow plug controller is cycling.

If you need glow plugs, Use only AC Delco 60G's or Bosch Duraterms. I haven't heard any good longevity reports with any other glow plugs. Autozone usually has good prices on the AC Delco 60G's

Make sure the brace is on the front of the starter. No sense breaking the block while you are trying to get it going. The brace goes from by where the starter wires connect to the block. It's easiest to remove the passenger side front wheel to get a good look behind the flap.

Either get new batteries, Use a known to be good pair or load test what you have after charging and checking the cables. I disconnect the positive cables so I can load test each battery by itself.

If the side post battery bolts are bad, I use an 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" long 3/8" Allen screw in the battery. Then I use 3 flat washers that fit in the battery cable and a nut to attach the cables. The brass washers that go on your front brake lines work well.

If the Allen screws are pointy, cut them off flat for a better connection and more thread in the battery connection

 

! note:
Never re-use a fuel filter.

they are 1 install and done since the o-ring deforms too much to ever seal properly again causing a host of problems.

If a fuel filter is ever removed,throw it away and start with a new fuilter every time.

Much cheaper than dealing with and diagnosing the problems created and the tow bills.

 

I'll be dogged. I've pulled them and re-installed them probably as many as 30 times since 1999. Never had a problem related to doing that.

People that do things wrong and get away with it continue to do things wrong til it bites them in the butt.

I've had people tell the way they were doing something was the correct way, because they had been doing it that way for 20 years or more. It's hard to convince them that they have been lucky for that long or they are just plain doing a bad job - a lot of this applies to people doing concrete work.

I will definitely think twice before re-installing a fuel filter again. AT the cost of fuel filters, and me being as tight as I can be, I foresee having a problem sticking with this. LOL
It'll definitely be in my mind every time I think about it now.

Does this apply equally to the old Standyne style, steel topped filters and the newer plastic topped filters?

 

Yes,all filters are lumped together but the problem is much more severe when you are talking about the plastic toped filters since the seal gets spun with them vs the older indexed filters that use the ring retainer.