Try running with the fuel cap loose as well.

If the vent is plugged in the cap it can cause high enough vacuum in the tank that fuel stops flowing.

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Thanx for the nod but that info originally came from another poster nammed knkreb.

 

got correct starter bolts in, oil sensor on, everything hooked back up, fired her up she purrs, went to turn truck off, and guess she decided she sat around so much she didn't want to stop, new ignition switch now, wow, what did they do to this poor truck....., one piece at a time, will keep ya updated

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Installed new ignition switch, bolted up steering column, and started her up, seemed good, the first time shutting down, cranked her back up, and wowow, was like someone had full throttle, and would not shut off, pulled pmd to kill, looking for bad wires now, as this was not an issue till replaced ops,,

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still trying to keep truck running, upon searching for the (new wont shut down issue, after ops sensor replaced), found a wire that runs out of cab, goes under truck and is attached to pump (Not factory), could this had been a bypass because the previous owner didn't want to replace ops, and if so, do you think we could had damaged the new ops by not disconnecting it? and still have issues with fueling when truck is on open road, seems it will idle and put put around here all day. but on open road dies after a few miles. can bleed the canasters (fill them up) and go again with no problem at an idle, lp tests show it is ok, but again on open road will die. and did remove the fuel cap, filter in canister is new, new fuel lines just because, new o rings on canister to resolve leak, no difference, im thinking I need to remove tank and check sock filter, but going to check pump under cab first. Oh yea, service engine light is coming on, and oil pressure is reading around 50lbs or so, any other ideas other than parking it in the river if I can make it that far....

 

CPS AC/Delco only BWD=crap had same issue with my 1994 that I had put new CPS it was a new truck after that you may have trouble getting old one out but we will cross that bridge later if needed

 

The situation you now have is power to the key at all times because of that wire being spliced in that way.

The OPS/lift pump circuit has power at all times an is supposed to.

To solve your no shut down issue remove the added wire.

As for the lift pump not supplying enough fuel the reasons could be many:
air leak between the fuel level in the tank and LP
dirt in the tank clogging the sending unit fuel sock
aftermarket sending-they are sent with the wrong sock/strainer that limits fuel flow
plugged vent in the filler cap-try running with the cap loose and if that solves the problem replace with a diesel cap

 

thanks, for info, just to be on safe side, ordered pmd, and relocation kit, removed rogue wire, and replacing again ops, will check fuel flow, once new items are in will update you when i get all parts delivered and instaalled,

 

I think the OPS is just fine but you can change it if you want to.

 

a feed the beast upgrade and a new lift pump that will give at least 10 psi of fuel would take the heat off your new pmd and save your injection pump from working so hard.
easy and cheap thing to do to make a bullet proof truck.

 

In truth,neither of those things aid in PMD life.
They do help with performance and IP life though.

The stock system works just fine at cooling the PMD with the engine running.

Where improvement needs to happen is after engine shutdown,heatsoak that happens at that time when fuel is no longer circulating is when the compenents inside the PMD get shocked/stressed.

The best PMD life improver there is,is to remote mount it to a location outside the engine bay wher e it can spend it's life in ambient temps with no sudden extreme heating or cooling cycles.

 

just running on the thought that a ip working harder than it should would have its fuel solenoid driver(pmd) working harder to. saving pmd or not its still 1 of the best things of done to my truck.
buying your ip some time in life at 1800$ to replace makes a 150$ mod worth it alone. anyhoo

 

well the day turned into a couple weeks, but finally have new pmd, and relocation kit, installed to front bumper, and new ops (once again) installed all, removed rogue wire, had lines blown out, and bled, fuel filter in canister good, try to start and do not hear lift pump running, seems as if it is not getting power, can however plug in the rogue wire, and lift pump begins working but with rogue wire attached, truck will not power down. seems as if there maybe a broken wire or short somewhere, to the lift pump, but not sure where to begin looking at this point, any ideas, or any other sensors that may control the lift pump? Lift pump is working with being straight wired, and with ops disconnected, will shut down with straight wire, but without the straight wire lift pump will not work.