Hi Guys,

Apologies if this has been answered before, Ive spent the last day on google with no real results.

Basically the story goes:

I ran outta Diesel on the way home away day, after a month or so got it going (dead batteries) since I have got it going again it hasnt been very happy.

Its hard to start (takes maybe 5-10secs), once its running it sounds happy, let it warm up no worries, go to take it for a drive and once it gets moving it starts coughing and spluttering and running on 7 cylinders and chugs out the black smoke out the back.

Now I have also had a problem with a leaking rear drivers side Injector, which i have taken apart and resealed with threadlocker but still not fixed.

What options do I have??

Since im in New Zealand we dont have specialist chev/gmc mechanics (we have one local but would be cheaper to buy a new truck )

I prefer to try do the work on my trucks as much as possible.

What suggestions are there?

Many Thanks

Caleb

 

Sounds like air is getting into fuel system Blow compressed air into tank look for leaks 10to15 psi should do the trick

 

I would say you are due for new/porofessionally rebuilt injectors with bosch nozzles ONLY and an install kit.

If you had to boost or tried starting your truck with a battery charger attatched you might well have damaged the glow plugs-they are only meant to work with the reduced voltage they cause in the trucks own batteries when operating.

Voltage above 10v burns out the glow plugs-replace with bosch duratherm.

You would also be advised to change the fuel filter and check the output of the mechanical fuel pump to make sure it's operating well.

 

Thanks for the replies guys... I have order new fuel filters, a replacement injector (just to check/ help the situation for now), and new return lines.

Will see how I get on with it. Just a question, how do the 6.2s handle turbos?

I basically just got it to tow my 4x4 around the country in, but I think I may find myself selling it and looking for a 4wd version.

 

They work ok if you limit the boost to 10-psi and with the help of an egt gauge limit exhaust temps to 1200F pre turbo.

The stock manifolds and turbo from a 6.5 work not too bad-a turbomaster is the easiest wastegate control.

 

Thats good to know, does the 6.5 stuff all bolt straight on? What about IP do you need to do anything?

 

Yes the 6.5 stuff is a direct bolt on,and you have the choice of turning up the IP or not-I wouldn't bother.

You might want to consider adding an inline electric lift pump to supplement the mechanical 1-I would.

 

Nice, now to find some 6.5 stuff lying around over here...

Would definitely look at electric lift pump, so you wouldnt event give the IP a 1/8th of a turn?

 

Try it as is and if you think you need more give it a partial turn.

 

Put a clear fuel line somewhere so if your getting air intrusion you will know and yeah bump that pump up