I think my next project will be to replace the battery cables, i'll just buy some at the parts stores that fit. thanks for the help.

 

Update: I havent done much besides mess with the postition of the injection pump and try unplugging the OS and the CPS. It was starting fine but when I take it for a ride it would stall, and sometimes run rough and blow lots of white smoke. It gave me codes that was for the injection pump being off. When I unplugged the OS it would start and run horrible and I had to keep revving it, as soon as i put it in drive it would stall. Plugged it back in and got it running again and then shut off and unplugged the CPS and started. Turned over for a bit before it started then fired up rand good for about 45 seconds then stall when im driving. Hooked it back up and got it to start, headed home and it stalled again with everything plugged in. Finally get it started back up and go home with it.
Out of curiousity I wanted to see how much power it had compared to before I messed with it. I put it in drive and held the brake and gave it gas, it would struggle for about 5-8 seconds till the turbo spooled up then it would push the front while they was locked up, then I put it in reverse and did the same thing. It went backwards fine and dragged the front tires while locked up. so it does have more power then before, but when I went to put it back in reverse to back up some more its like it's in neutral now and doesnt do anything! It works in drive, I took it for a quick drive and got into 2nd gear with it, then came back and it still wont go into drive. My first concern now is the transmission and then for the running part i'll probably have to take it to the dealer for them to set the timing on the pump, I dont have the scan tool to tell me the timing. Any ideas or suggestions? thanks.

 

You likely have it running in limp mode now,getting the timing set properly should help all concerns.

These trucks from 94 - have an electronic timing procedure that can only be commanded by a quality scan tool for 94/95 and for 96+ a scan tool or KOKO procedure combined with a scan tool that can at least display the TDCO value.

Some criteria for that relearn are no trouble codes and engine temp 170F+.

You shouldn't touch the IP without knowing the procedure to relearn the timing and a scan tool to know what the new value is and how to correct it if it's wrong.

On the bright side you have proven that the OS and CPS are in working order.

 

Is there realistically any damage I can do by turning the injection pump and driving it if its just going to go into limp mode? I have no clue about it. How much does it normally cost if a shop or dealer ship sets the timing? I'd like to think not over $200 cause its just hooking a computer to it and turning the pump, but i'm sure i could be wrong. Any ideas on the trans while your at it?

 

When you move the IP far enough to set a timing code the ECM no longer has the ability to control timing and defaults to a "limp home mode".

In that mode it tends to overfuel and make only enough power to keep it running-it also often limits th trans ability to shift so you don't do any harm.

As for a dealer setting timing I can't really say what it will cost-most dealerships never knew how to deal with these engines when they were in production,let alone 10+ years after they saw the last new one leave the lot.

Better to look in your area for a stanadyne authorized truck shop or look for a reputable diesel shop who actually knows how to set the timing on these.

 

ok, I'll look around for a place that that, there's a few diesel shops in the area, i'll stop in and have a talk with them.
Not to be repetitive but I want to keep this post at the top for suggestions....anyone have any ideas on the transmission?

 

I think since all you have done is move the IP,that when the codes are cleared and tinming set the trans will be cured also-only time will tell though.

 

I called and got a price on having the injection pump timed. I called a Stanadyne dealer and said they are familiar with the 6.5 motor. when I told them I needed the injection pump times they said Its callled "C" something, i forgot the rest but I explained what I've put on it and told them i need it timed and working together and they said no problem. Its $175, so hopefully i'll be out of the door under 200 and then can start with the transmission. If the transmission has to come out for any reason to fix it i'll probably buy a new one and put it in so i wont have any troubles for a long time hopefully :/

 

TDCO relearn

 

I brought my truck in to have the TDCO done to it. The shop ended up saying it needs a new injection pump again. I just put one on 3 months ago and it was a new one. I marked the spot and installed the new one in the same spot and it ran fine for 2 months, then the crankshaft postion sensor went and thats where all my problems started. I replaced it and it will run fine for less then 5 minutes then set a code for the timing being off, will blow lots of white smoke, runs very rough then stalls and all this after it was running fine and just replaced the CPS and not messing with the timing. I barely drove it after the CPS was put in since it would keep stalling every 5 minutes, it probably has less then 1 hour of running time on it since the CPS was changed and the motor started running bad. The shop said there is a solenoid inside the pump that went bad and I need a new pump. They said they still set the timing but it's throwing codes for a bad pump. Is what they are saying possible? The pump is warrantied for a year and I talked to the parts store and they are giving me another one with no problems so im not worried about putting a new pump on besides spending a afternoon installing it. I had to pay the shop $180 to supposably set the timing and tell me it wont work after they did all that and I need a new pump and then have to bring it back to them. I've heard good things about the shop from a couple people, the owner or boss came out and talked to me about my problems and he seemed very knowledgeable about these specific diesels and they also work on the diesel engines for the navy for some jobs so i'd assume they'd have to be decent with what they do. So does what they say sound realistic or should I look into someone else to do the work?