Thank you for your reply and your patience with me-newby racer55.

In order to make sure that I have understud you correct:
There should actually be a Light installed in the dash named "Service throttle soon"?

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Thank you again for your ongoing patience and support Racer55.

Meanwhile I found the Light "Service Throttle soon" > the light-bulb had bad contact > took it out, cleaned it, put it back > works (now @ IGN it shows during Lamp-test also "Service Throttle soon" for a short while).

Scantech shows now no more error-codes @ all

Thank you very much racer55.

 

Glad you got it solved.

 

Hello to all sou helping minds.

I have meanwhile refurbished all ground connections.
It seems as by now the retrofitted (previuois owner) DTech PMD ( installee witha 70cm cable extension harness) has died.
The new orignal (upgraded grey version) Stanadyne PMD has meanwhile arrived from US - - and annother650.- swiss francs have left my vallet which looks like swisscheese altead.

Within the next 14 days i will install it.

Let me share this with you:
I am a very expirienced Tchnician for Co2 high power lasersystems.
Especially i am a expert on transmission of all kinds of PWM/PPM signals (Puls Widh Modulated / Pulse Pause Modulated) signals.
I can assure you: a cable extension harness to install within such a signal circuit it nothing wise to be done at all. And if done it must be done in a very specific and accurate manner, the longer the extension, the more accurate and specific.
I ordered therefor the upgraded original Standadyne PMD as replacement of the seems-to-be-dead PMD.

I thank you for your interest and your ongoing support.
After the engine does run again i will keep you informed about the result of redoing the grounds in regard of the lift pump voltage AS well of my findings in regard of perhaps existing OPS-Contact problem.

Kind regards
Thomas

 

Today i tried to install the lately from USA arrived original Standadyn PMD.
See attached pictures and Doc's.

The Plug on the short end of the y-harness does not fit the connector on the engine.
You will see on the pictures the existing connector as well as the connector from the new y-harness.

Well, no luck so far.
I am now in contact with a official Standadyne Partner overhere.

i'll keep you posted.

Best regards

Thomas

 

Jipiieyeyjippieyey!

Hello Everybody,

Meanwhile I have received a adaption cable (one side plug for old-style-black Stanadyne PMD ---- other side plug for new-style-grey Stanadyne PMD) which I installed today on the existing DTech-PMD cooling bracket.
This adapter harness i ordered from accuratediesel.com.
THe harness I ordered is 6ft. long (even tough i am not fan of long PWM-signal cables).

1.) The DTech cooling bracket is that much bended that the PMD (no matter what type) does not touch-dowm on the entire surface of the cooling bracket.
It is that much bended because - i believe so as a professional precisionmechanic - they must have milled out the cooling ripples after they milled that side on which the PMD is mounted. (in order the aluminium bracket to remain flat it MUST be the done the other way around: first milling out the ripples THEN milling the side where the PMD is to be mounted).

2.) Between the DTech PMD and the aluminium cooling bracket they install a syntetic/plastic/rubber-kind-of "heat transfer pad" >> I have NO idea how such a plastic heat transfer pad shall work in any other way than isolating the heat)

So:
First i did flatten the side of the aluminum bracket where the new-style-gery Stanadyne PMD is mounted.
With the the new-stale-Stanadyne-Kit comes a metal heat-transfer-pad (as it should be), this I installed covered with a thin layer of heat-transfer-compound (which i also use on Lasers for thermal sensors).

Well,then I installed the new-grey-style Stanadyne PMD (mounted of the cooler) in the mobile home.

Then I powered the lift-pump with a booster, bleeding the filter (opening filter cap).
One injection line i loosend on one injection nozzle on each side.

As you can see on my prevous post the motor was not running since July 2013.

I tunr the key, GLOW PLUGS and .. . . . . motors just starts as it should

My conclusion:

As I had this stalling/shutting-off while driving/not beeing able to start since the day I bought the mobile home (an even the garage who sold me the thing had this problem for several months - that's why they installed the DTech thing - forgetting to also install the resistor) i am 100% sure now that the DTech-thing was faulty from the beginning.

What a f***-up!
See, I am living in CH > I cannot just go around the corner to get any part @ Autozone or so; I cannot even find a mechanic which knows even as little as I about this motor, I must order all-and-everthing in the USA; paying fright cost which blow ma a** off.
And claiming warranty? No chance!

I for myself - as a technician not only for laser for many many years - I never ever ever ever buy 3rd party replacement parts, never did, never will.

The official Stanadyne partner in switzerland (which has a pump revision center - but as I found out only on their webpage located in switzerland) i useless: Cashing 700 bucks (!) for the part and having NO idea the slightest what they sell; nill support, nothing)


Well, however the motor runs and I am rather happy man.

Most interesstingly the lift pump has still only approx. 7 Volts AFTER the connector plug.
As I have also ordere a new AC-Delco lift-pump this will the next to investigate and solve.

Thank all of you again for your ongoing support and I hope any of my Info does also help someone else.
I will continue on the 7Volt on the lift-pump soon.

Kind regards
Thomas

 

Hello Everybody,

Could please someone study the attached electrical diagram of the lift pump relais?

I did measure it out and have written the values in the diagram.

Wherever there should be 12VDC i measure only approx. 7VDC.

As far as i understand the situation the lift pump relais is activated during ignition/crancking; when the engine is running the lift pump gets the 12DC from the oil pressure switch.

So theoretically when the OPS contact is damaged I should still measure 12VDC while Ignition/Crancking?

Can anyone tell me where this 12VDC going to the lift pump relais are supplyd from?

Thank you for your time and help

Kind regards

Thomas

 

The LP fuse is often located very near the relay-any corrosion around it or the fuse holder?

Here is a suggested modification list for 6.5 diesels that also includes a 2 relay lift pump/OPS modification that was put together by Buddy from Buddy's multi-tune chips.
Have a look at the diagram on page 6.it includes longevity mod but might help answer you question?

 

Thank you for your swift reply and the pdf racer55, I appreciate your support very much.

I will a.s.a.p. go hunting the LP fuse you mentioned (as the engine is in a Thor Columbus Mobilehome things are very often "just somewhere" located) as well as I will study the OPS-bypass-relais schematic.

Thank you again racer55, kind regards from Thomas

 

leroydiesel.com is a good place to order PMD's and such.

I had 2 bad gray Standyne PMD's and gave up on them. I only use Flight Systems PMD's now.

I made the mistake of buying one from Pensacola diesel and feel hosed. It looks to be a Dorman. Which I would never buy. And the PMD resistor box was empty

 

Hello Everybody,

Finally I could solve the too low voltage @ the Lift pump.

As probably expected by some of you it was in fact the Oil Prssure Switch contact.
It took me a while to verify because the wiring diagram printed on the Lift pump Relais did confuse me as it is not correct - so also the wiring diagram I draw mayself in Post 16 is wrong.

However, I did modify the LP power supply by the means of the OP-Switch-contact bypass according the wiring diagram from racer55 in Post 17.
That solved the problem, now there is 12V power to lift pump as it should be.

THank you all for your support and help, I have learned a lot.
Hopefully my videos where also help for anyone else.

Best regards

Thomas