fds diagnoises
#7
So its still in the engine compartment? If i were you, i would order the extension cable, heatsink, and new pmd relocation kit and move it out of the engine compartment. Such as mounting it on the inside of the front bumper.
#8
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scugog Island ONT.
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There is no test for a PMD/FSD;they work all the time or they don't and are bad-period.
Only buy new when diagnosing a PMD problem,the ebay used tested good are a crap shoot since they can not be tested except by using them.
It often takes several returns to get a REAL good used PMD and by the time you pay return shipping and wait you could have had a new 1.
Oriely's is said to offer a lifetime warranty PMD and that warranty is worth something.
Only buy new when diagnosing a PMD problem,the ebay used tested good are a crap shoot since they can not be tested except by using them.
It often takes several returns to get a REAL good used PMD and by the time you pay return shipping and wait you could have had a new 1.
Oriely's is said to offer a lifetime warranty PMD and that warranty is worth something.
#9
#10
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scugog Island ONT.
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Pulse widths of what?
What is it about PMD's can not be tested other than replacing them and observing the results that you are having trouble understanding?
Resistors almost never fail,but it can happen and even then the worst outcome is no start-not stalling.
The original PMD can be left in place and forgotten about when they fail,the aftermarket PMD relocation kits serve 2 functions.
1: making replacement easier due to the PMD being accessible.
2: allowing the PMD to be moved to a mounting location outside the hot underhood environment and away from large temperature spikes/swings.
A PMD/resistor/heatsink combo mounted under/below the ftr bumper or behind the grill on a rad support is a much better location for the PMD to survive at it's best.
A 6' extension harness is just the ticket for getting this done and can be purchased or you can stretch your original harness with solder and heatshrink.
A situation that mimic's a bad PMD is a failing ignition switch.
If you notice that the blower motor and/or radio keep working but the entire instrument cluster dies at the time of a stall-the ignition switch is a likely culprit.
What is it about PMD's can not be tested other than replacing them and observing the results that you are having trouble understanding?
Resistors almost never fail,but it can happen and even then the worst outcome is no start-not stalling.
The original PMD can be left in place and forgotten about when they fail,the aftermarket PMD relocation kits serve 2 functions.
1: making replacement easier due to the PMD being accessible.
2: allowing the PMD to be moved to a mounting location outside the hot underhood environment and away from large temperature spikes/swings.
A PMD/resistor/heatsink combo mounted under/below the ftr bumper or behind the grill on a rad support is a much better location for the PMD to survive at it's best.
A 6' extension harness is just the ticket for getting this done and can be purchased or you can stretch your original harness with solder and heatshrink.
A situation that mimic's a bad PMD is a failing ignition switch.
If you notice that the blower motor and/or radio keep working but the entire instrument cluster dies at the time of a stall-the ignition switch is a likely culprit.
Last edited by racer55; 10-30-2012 at 11:12 AM.