The project continues, motor swap into my 94 suburban 4x4. 6.5 was removed because it was cashed, new(er) motor put in it's place. Had crazy "mechanic" down the street do the heavy lift cause me and the misses wouldn't be able to. The new motor was complete but the previous owner informed "the injector pump is not timed to the motor" being even more of a noob then I am now I had no idea what this meant ( and it is still foggy really). The truck also has mechanical injector pumps oddly enough. Old motor was modified to use on and the new motor was as well. So pumps are DB2 mechanical injector pumps. Mechanic puts new gaskets on new motor and makes sure everything is TDC. Now the truck won't start.

My question/ concern: I am under the impression that the IP timing gear is supposed to be at the 6 o'clock position at TDC...not 12 o'clock like everything else. IS IT POSSIBLE that the gasser mechanic could have put everything TDC? Or would this not be possible i.e. bolts not aligning etc. AND if that is possible am I correct that it would not only result in a no start but also a no fuel/ no prime scenario? And to correct this issue I would need to remove the timing chain cover and IP, correct?

Thank you in advance for the help. EVENTUALLY I will be able to drive this truck... some day.

 

well the best two ways would be to,
get your hands on a scan tool that can look up something like that, i forget what its called.

or rip it apart and look

regardless if its timed or not, if tht IP is spinning, you should be getting fuel unless the IP is bad

 

Scan tool will not do him any good on a mechanical IP, if it still had the DS4 IP on it yes he could read it with the scan tool, but now with the mechanical IP no joy there to read IP with scan tool.

I'm away from my manuals so I don't want to tell you wrong on timing gear marks, but off top of my head that does not seem correct to me.

In morning give Bill Heath at Heath Diesel he is West Coast time zone tell him I sent you his way his web site is heathdiesel.com or bill@heathdiesel.com

Did the guy doing the IP conversion also change the throttle cable assembly from the electronic one and also put in a stand alone computer for the trans. if it is an auto trans ?

Do you have +12v to the shutdown solenoid on the mechanical IP with key on, do you have a solid gnd to the IP body to block, and then block to battery gnd complete the path of trons for the solenoid to work ?


Tim

 

Now that you've mentioned it I did not see a gnd wire coming of the IP. I will check that tomorrow when I have the time. I am not getting fuel to the injectors, so as long as no matter how out of time it is it would pump, then I should check into gnds and IP itself thanks

 

Won't be a gnd on the IP should not need it, gnd should be sufficient through the mounting studs unless all gobbed up with RTV or other crud preventing good tron flow, you could put on a temporary jumper to gnd & IP body to see if that helps any.

 

okay I will just jump a gnd to the pump body and check results. So the timing of the ip pump will not prevent it from priming, correct? SO if I can't get fuel to flow past the ip then ip is probably bad?

 

Yep this is a good assumption

 

Did You call Bill my experience with mech IPs is limited, but over on TTS site a number of guys work mech IPs possibly take a stroll over there to pick some noggins.

 

The IP drive gear on the cam is keyed to the cam gear-it can't be out of time from the cam,the IP gear and the drive gear should be put together so that the dots line up just like the cam and crank gears do.

 

Update: So I got some interesting advice on another site and tried it out. I pulled all the glow plugs and cranked the truck to make sure fuel was coming from the IP. Every one had said to disconnect the injector lines to test but this work great! SOOO fuel check, glowing glow plugs check...however still no start. I assumed I wasn't getting fuel since I wasn't even getting a sputter or cough.... Back to original question: is that a symptom of a severely miss timed IP? Or something else? The mechanic had mentioned something about the valves being closed ( his theory was that the heads were newer on the swap motor and the seller possibly just put the heads on without any adjusting to sell a complete motor ) I really don't want to have to tow it to a shop because I will be raped on the price, but I really need to get the truck running. Thanks to everyone for al the help.