Fuel Filter/Separator Drain Valve Repair
#1
06-12-2008, 03:40 PM
Fuel Filter/Separator Drain Valve Repair
Thanks To: sabre2th - https://www.dieselbombers.com/members/sabre2th.html
If you're smelling fuel, seeing fuel drip from the back or from the separator drain tube on the passenger side of your Powerstroke, or have a puddle growing in the valley on top, there's a good chance that this is the problem. Seems that the newly mandated ULSD (ultra-low-sulpher-diesel) likes to shrink these o rings...
Well, here's how I did it. Took about 25 minutes and only one beer. My rig is a 99.5 F250, so if yours is a 7.3 PSD with 4 screws on the valve, these pics will apply.. I'm told that the procedure for the older models is similar. Click on the pics for a larger view. If anyone has info to add, let me know.
If you're smelling fuel, seeing fuel drip from the back or from the separator drain tube on the passenger side of your Powerstroke, or have a puddle growing in the valley on top, there's a good chance that this is the problem. Seems that the newly mandated ULSD (ultra-low-sulpher-diesel) likes to shrink these o rings...
Well, here's how I did it. Took about 25 minutes and only one beer. My rig is a 99.5 F250, so if yours is a 7.3 PSD with 4 screws on the valve, these pics will apply.. I'm told that the procedure for the older models is similar. Click on the pics for a larger view. If anyone has info to add, let me know.
Fig.1
Get yourself some good #202 O-rings (1/4" I.D.- 1/8" cross-section), preferably Viton as it holds up to diesel and temp changes very well. The ones pictured here are brown colored, but they can be black- same material. I ended up buying a lot of extras just to get a good price.
Fig.2
Begin by removing the plastic cover over the filter/separator (13mm socket). This would also probably be a good time to remove your battery cables to keep your friends from nicknaming you "Sparky" or "Torch". There are some hot solenoid connections close to where you will be wrenching.
Fig.3
Place a suitable container under the passenger side of your engine below the drain tube to catch fuel. (Note: this pan was not pushed back far enough, had a pretty good mess to clean up...a short hose attached to the end of the drain tube will help.)
Fig.4
Rotate the drain valve clockwise to drain your filter/separator. Be sure to check the position of your drain pan at this time... (This would also be a good time to disconnect any electrical plugs that may be in the way.)
Fig.5
Push the rubber connector to the drain tube off of the lower part of the drain valve. A big fat screwdriver worked good for me.
Fig.6
Remove the 4 T20 (Torx) screws with a small T20 socket and ratchet. You might want to place a towel or such below the valve so you don't have to fish a screw out of the valley like I did..
Fig.7
Note that the valve assembly is in 2 parts. It's real easy to drop the lever part into the valley. (Don't ask)
Fig.8
Carefully pop the old o rings out of the valve body, taking care not scratch up the o ring seat or valve.
Get yourself some good #202 O-rings (1/4" I.D.- 1/8" cross-section), preferably Viton as it holds up to diesel and temp changes very well. The ones pictured here are brown colored, but they can be black- same material. I ended up buying a lot of extras just to get a good price.
Fig.2
Begin by removing the plastic cover over the filter/separator (13mm socket). This would also probably be a good time to remove your battery cables to keep your friends from nicknaming you "Sparky" or "Torch". There are some hot solenoid connections close to where you will be wrenching.
Fig.3
Place a suitable container under the passenger side of your engine below the drain tube to catch fuel. (Note: this pan was not pushed back far enough, had a pretty good mess to clean up...a short hose attached to the end of the drain tube will help.)
Fig.4
Rotate the drain valve clockwise to drain your filter/separator. Be sure to check the position of your drain pan at this time... (This would also be a good time to disconnect any electrical plugs that may be in the way.)
Fig.5
Push the rubber connector to the drain tube off of the lower part of the drain valve. A big fat screwdriver worked good for me.
Fig.6
Remove the 4 T20 (Torx) screws with a small T20 socket and ratchet. You might want to place a towel or such below the valve so you don't have to fish a screw out of the valley like I did..
Fig.7
Note that the valve assembly is in 2 parts. It's real easy to drop the lever part into the valley. (Don't ask)
Fig.8
Carefully pop the old o rings out of the valve body, taking care not scratch up the o ring seat or valve.
#2
06-12-2008, 03:41 PM
Fig.9
Wipe any existing crud from valve pockets and push in the new o rings. On some models, there is a third o-ring on the top of the stem (pull the stem out from the top to replace), these ARE included in my kits just in case. Wipe any crud off the o ring surfaces on the filter/separator and reverse procedure to re-install.
You're done! Kick back and admire your work, no more liquid gold leaking out onto the ground...
Wipe any existing crud from valve pockets and push in the new o rings. On some models, there is a third o-ring on the top of the stem (pull the stem out from the top to replace), these ARE included in my kits just in case. Wipe any crud off the o ring surfaces on the filter/separator and reverse procedure to re-install.
You're done! Kick back and admire your work, no more liquid gold leaking out onto the ground...
#6
02-01-2009, 09:15 PM
Your post was terrific. No problems for me though I spent a little over an hour. Took the o-rings (pure diesel power) to O'Reilley's and found two more in a $7.95 assortment. They were designed for fuel lines so now I have a couple of spares. Thanks
cowbum
cowbum
Last edited by cowbum; 02-01-2009 at 09:16 PM. Reason: add truck profile
#7
02-02-2009, 07:30 PM
Diesel Bombers Sponsor
Nice write up. The only thing you need to watch with the assortments at the parts stores is the quality. You really want to use the Nitrile o-rings. I think I got a pack of 25 for $5 from McMaster Carr. The regular o-rings will work, but won't last as long with the diesel fuel.
#8
02-03-2009, 09:29 AM
I had to have that done to my 1999 7.3 PSD, so I bought the valve body for $44 then I went over to my friends house{he's a aircraft tech & ground equipment tech} Had it done in no time, If i were to do it, it would have taken me all day, And I would have busted a knuckle ???
#9
02-03-2009, 10:38 AM
Nice write up. The only thing you need to watch with the assortments at the parts stores is the quality. You really want to use the Nitrile o-rings. I think I got a pack of 25 for $5 from McMaster Carr. The regular o-rings will work, but won't last as long with the diesel fuel.
#10
02-03-2009, 10:42 AM
Ford sells a kit for like $17 that includes just the O-rings. OR you could pay $44 like^. I believe there are also a couple O-rings around the valve itself that sometimes leak as well.
