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Old 10-22-2007, 01:32 PM
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ok ive ripped apart the bathroon in the downstairs, had a black mold problem. I took out all the old gype rock and wood that was affected, replaced the walls with wood and painted etc.. now comes the time to install the sink. But the line is still leaking. how do i get this line to stop leaking?

Also installing the sink , i think i have the doughnut in upside down?
Another question is when you silicon the sink do you silicon under the metal piece or under the rubber piece. my first plumbing job. the ol man is NO help. hes too busy doing his thing, i dont ask him to help. stubborn a bit i guess. but i do want to do this right so any advice will help me out. ill take some pics and get them on here. show you what im talkin about.
 

Last edited by dmaxjenn; 10-22-2007 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:35 PM
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Which line is leaking? If it is leaking around a fitting some teflon tape should take care of it. All the sinks I've installed are ceramic into marble tops so we used a special sealent.
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:43 PM
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heres some photos. the line without the shut off has the leak.
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:47 PM
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the silicone i picked up is called kitchen and bath by ge 100% silicone rubber. does this go all around the underside of the faucets between the sink and rubber? and do i have the drain in right?
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:11 PM
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You dont need that stuff between the sink and the faucet that is why the rubber gasket is there. The drain appears right in the pics. The silicone goes between the sink and the cabinet. Were is the line hooking into the wall or the faucet?
 
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:31 PM
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Ahh ok thats why i checked the guy at home depot said you did. so all around the sinkand cabinet cause its all one piece. and what about the drain hole between the metel and ceramic? you know the metal piece on the top side of the side or under it?
that line in the pic is comeing from the wall. I will need another line to go to the faucets. Is it better to replace that whole line with one solid one that comes from the wall? or just get another piece to fit from the center of the cabinet to the faucets.
 

Last edited by dmaxjenn; 10-22-2007 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:31 AM
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You really only need to caulk anywhere you have the sink countertop touching the wall. The wood cabinet won't need to be sealed.

I can't say as I understand the rest of your question enough to comment.
 
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Old 10-23-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
You really only need to caulk anywhere you have the sink countertop touching the wall. The wood cabinet won't need to be sealed.

I can't say as I understand the rest of your question enough to comment.
I just wanted to know, if I should replace the lines right from the wall with one line directly to the faucets. or do it in two , using the lines that leaks .or how to fix the fitting? turn off water, then that should shut the whole water off right.take the top of the fitting and replace the nozzel, turn water back on and add the other lines, and vola done... I think i solved this one thanks..
 
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Old 10-23-2007, 01:43 PM
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use KILZ for a primer then paint over top of that, it will help the mold from coming back, also if you drywall use "green" board, its "waterproof" drywall, notice that was in quotations....
 
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LOGANSTANFORTH
use KILZ for a primer then paint over top of that, it will help the mold from coming back, also if you drywall use "green" board, its "waterproof" drywall, notice that was in quotations....
Good advic. The green board is water resistent though not water proof. I know I'm being nit picky but use to always get yelled at about that.
 


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