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Anyone Rented An Insulation Blower?

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  #11  
Old 03-11-2008, 03:26 PM
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shitboard? I used to think so too but its not any worse than regular ply wood and it is a true er 4x8 than regular ply wood. show me a building that doesnt have it on it. It works fine for its application.

If cheap is spending money that I don't have than yes I am cheap.

none of those are going to work.
I did some research and made some calls and the blown insulation can be done from the top and can be done efficiently. this isn't he preferred way but that is how I'm going to have to do it.
 

Last edited by GRI; 03-11-2008 at 03:29 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-11-2008, 05:14 PM
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First off I prefer OSB to plywood anyday. Plywood is WAY more money, warps easier, is never straight, throws bigger chips when cutting, falls apart faster when exposed to water, the list goes on and on. I would say, if you are dead set on insulating the floor and don't have the money to insulate before the OSB, then you have it figured out with the blown in. If you are using cellulose, you WILL need a mask. Blown in fiberglass would be easier to get an even coverage "snaking" in like that. Just make sure you keep an even movement when blowing and make sure the machine stuffer keeps the machine loaded at all times.
Will you eventually be heating the "bar"?

Josh
 
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:28 PM
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I'm not dead set on insulating after. i would much rather do it the correct way. but I dont have the money to shell out for the insulation.
I kind of already made my mind up though because it was $180 for the OSB and that should help a little. I just wanted to make sure the hose you use to blow the insulation is pretty stiff and can be "pushed" through. and apparently there is a 10 foot section that is a hard poly material that is pretty rigid. so I will drill 2 holes in the upstairs and run the through.
 
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:40 PM
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If it is like all of the ones I have used, it is a 4" corogated flexible hose and we have pushed it under like this 14' so if you go halfway you should be OK. If you want the highest insulating value, you would have to go with the friction fit (regular batts) or the "hot blown" but that stuff is EXPENSIVE. If it were me, since it is getting out of cold season, I would wait until I could get 8" Kraft face and then put the OSB up. It is all up to you though and I think you have it fugured out so, good luck, and god speed.
Let us know how it goes though.

Josh
 
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:10 PM
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I didn't say to use plywood...but your using OSB where you shouldn't be, and you know it. Walls and ceilings are where sheetrock should be. OSB does not hold up to water better than plywood, the glue falls apart within days, and it gets so soft a foot will go through it with ease, plywood might come apart, but it won't lose its strength. OSB degrades when left out in the sun, because the glue is exposed, plywood won't. OSB will never hold a flat edge, or surface, because as soon as anything is applied, the grains swell and your stuck with a new rough surface...but not with plywood.

You can't get cabinet grade OSB, but you can with plywood. OSB is junk, no two ways about it, sure most homes have it (not any of the custom homes I used to build), but that doesn't mean its the best product to use. Some applications are tolerant of it, others aren't, roof's shouldn't have OSB as sheeting...no matter what code says, its horrible, at least in the snow belt. OSB T&G decking is a little different, its designed for its purpose, and its usually 15/16" thick so it can hold up to high traffic. That is the only place I'd prefer OSB, because it won't squeak 30 years down the road like plywood. of course, good T&G planks are even better.
 
  #16  
Old 03-12-2008, 09:28 PM
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You should have done Batt insulation, That spray in crap settles over time and loses R-value.
 
  #17  
Old 03-13-2008, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorOilMcCall
I didn't say to use plywood...but your using OSB where you shouldn't be, and you know it. Walls and ceilings are where sheetrock should be. OSB does not hold up to water better than plywood, the glue falls apart within days, and it gets so soft a foot will go through it with ease, plywood might come apart, but it won't lose its strength. OSB degrades when left out in the sun, because the glue is exposed, plywood won't. OSB will never hold a flat edge, or surface, because as soon as anything is applied, the grains swell and your stuck with a new rough surface...but not with plywood.

You can't get cabinet grade OSB, but you can with plywood. OSB is junk, no two ways about it, sure most homes have it (not any of the custom homes I used to build), but that doesn't mean its the best product to use. Some applications are tolerant of it, others aren't, roof's shouldn't have OSB as sheeting...no matter what code says, its horrible, at least in the snow belt. OSB T&G decking is a little different, its designed for its purpose, and its usually 15/16" thick so it can hold up to high traffic. That is the only place I'd prefer OSB, because it won't squeak 30 years down the road like plywood. of course, good T&G planks are even better.
sheet rock on a non heated garage. that stuff will sag in know time and become brittle.
if it was exposed exterior than I would agree with you kind of. but ply wood will delaminate and warp so it isnt much better than OSB. on roofs it is totally fine. if the roofer did his job than OSB will hold up for as log as plywood will.

I never said it is the greatest thing but I am using it properly. My father is a contractor and I have used both for years but the OSB out weighs the plywood. sorry

OSB has a smooth side as well. I just painted all of the OSB and it is smoother than when I bought it.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by Diesel-N-Dust
You should have done Batt insulation, That spray in crap settles over time and loses R-value.
again, I am not saying this is the best way to do it. but the OSB price dropped to $5.65 a sheet which is the lowest in a few years. If I wait until I can afford to do the batt than it could double.


and once again this is a garage not a living quarter
 

Last edited by GRI; 03-13-2008 at 06:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #18  
Old 03-13-2008, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorOilMcCall
I didn't say to use plywood...but your using OSB where you shouldn't be, and you know it. Walls and ceilings are where sheetrock should be. OSB does not hold up to water better than plywood, the glue falls apart within days, and it gets so soft a foot will go through it with ease, plywood might come apart, but it won't lose its strength. OSB degrades when left out in the sun, because the glue is exposed, plywood won't. OSB will never hold a flat edge, or surface, because as soon as anything is applied, the grains swell and your stuck with a new rough surface...but not with plywood.

You can't get cabinet grade OSB, but you can with plywood. OSB is junk, no two ways about it, sure most homes have it (not any of the custom homes I used to build), but that doesn't mean its the best product to use. Some applications are tolerant of it, others aren't, roof's shouldn't have OSB as sheeting...no matter what code says, its horrible, at least in the snow belt. OSB T&G decking is a little different, its designed for its purpose, and its usually 15/16" thick so it can hold up to high traffic. That is the only place I'd prefer OSB, because it won't squeak 30 years down the road like plywood. of course, good T&G planks are even better.
To each his own.

Josh

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by GRI
sheet rock on a non heated garage. that stuff will sag in know time and become brittle.
if it was exposed exterior than I would agree with you kind of. but ply wood will delaminate and warp so it isnt much better than OSB. on roofs it is totally fine. if the roofer did his job than OSB will hold up for as log as plywood will.

I never said it is the greatest thing but I am using it properly. My father is a contractor and I have used both for years but the OSB out weighs the plywood. sorry

OSB has a smooth side as well. I just painted all of the OSB and it is smoother than when I bought it.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---



again, I am not saying this is the best way to do it. but the OSB price dropped to $5.65 a sheet which is the lowest in a few years. If I wait until I can afford to do the batt than it could double.


and once again this is a garage not a living quarter
I agree with you. It is hard for the guys that used to build before OSB was developed to see the benefits. Can you say "teach an old dog new tricks". If OSB wasn't able to stand up to sheething specs, the government would not allow us to use it. And you,re right GRI about the sheetrock possibly turning brittle from humidity in a garage. I've seen it quite a bit. Hey, just my opinions.

Josh
 

Last edited by jstange2; 03-13-2008 at 07:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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