Ok so I am completely over hauling my audio. I have some stuff picked out I just want some input on the choices I've made. I don't want to go too crazy but I want it to sound nice.

Amp Installation Kit:American ACC Powerkit9 1800W AMP Hook-up Kit | Overstock.com
Receiver: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X895 CD receiver at Crutchfield Signature
Sub Box: Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Sealed dual 12" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB122-125S) at Crutchfield Outlet
Subs that I have already:Infinity 1260w Reference Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Amp that I have already: Rockford Fosgate® - T10001bd
Tweeters: ????
Front door speakers: ???? (I've heard round speakers are the way to go no 6x9? And I also want 3-way speakers?)
Back door speakers: ????

And anything else that someone might think of? My '02 Dodge has the infinity system in it currently but the door speakers are going out. I also want to patch the holes in the doors with some kind of dynamat or something 'cuz I've heard that helps a lot with sound quality.

Thanks guys! Some of these items are on sale till the end of the month so I'd like to order soon!

 

Equipment choices are subjective and based upon personal experiences,I have had excellent results from Rockford Fosgate,Kicker,Kenwood and CTD Audio.I believe Kenwood makes one of the best head units for longevity. and the Exelon is loaded with features.As my own preference of late,I have installed only 6.5 components in the doors and rear fill areas,but have had equal sound from quality 6x9's in the past. There are numerous products available to control sound and noise,my preference has been Dynamat Extreme,and I cover all metal surfaces that I can access inside the cab,and double it on the floor.Look around,it can be bought in the bulk packs for $150.00 or less. It's money very well spent.

 

You have chosen an excellent receiver. I have had several of the 895's, and wish they were still making them. If you found one, get it. The only down side to them is that they have a rotating face, and the ribbon that attaches it cracks and fails at the pin it has to rotate around. Every one I have had had that problem. Excellent receiver though. There are new models that have the same features that do not rotate. As for power amps, check out Hifonics, they always put out at least the power they say they will,and usually come with a birth certificate with test results.it is a brand that has been around for a long time, and are usually very affordable. In my opinion you get the most bang for your buck with hifonics. You will be happy with the infinity's.

 

If you are going to buy deadener look into Audio Technix. it is a newer deadener on the market, but is twice what dynamat is, and 1/3rd the price. I have the 80 mil, and would recommend it to anyone looking for deadening.

 

I'll look into that thanks!

Do I have to bypass the infinity amps for the speakers or can i just wire the speakers to them?

 

I am sure you have already thought of this, but if you are running 1800 watts of audio power from that amp at max, then you will be drawing 165 amps of DC electric from your batteries and alternator. Make sure that you have a fused link of some sort as clost to the battery as possible that is running the power for the amp. Maybe a 1 Farad Cap. in line with it as well so you don't draw all the power from you batteries at once when the bass hits. Just a thought

 

Thanks for the tip. I have thought about putting in a capacitor but I don't really think I need one? I don't run my setup at peak very often but if it will save my batteries and my alternator I would want to put one in. Think I should?

 

Using a cap is pointless. There are many theories on it. But in the end, you alternator still has recharge the batteries and the cap. I would recommend getting a better batteries (agm) or a high output alternator.

Also you won't be seeing 1800 watts all the time. I would approximate half that at best on normal music. So the draw won't be as much as you think.

 

I just bought new batteries but I'm twiddling my thumbs waiting for the alternator to bite it and when it does I'll get a higher output unit.

I think i'll can it for now it's something I can add later if I find that it's struggling which I can't see it doing unless I'm blowing them up.

 

I disagree with you on the cap. Yes, ultimately the alternator has to charge it up. But the purpose of it is when the amp calls for more power than the alternator and the batteries can supply, it will get its energy from the cap that is charged. If your run those 12" subs off of that 1800 watt amp, I know this system is going to be turned up and thumping, otherwise there would be no need for the 12's. And if you like your headlights dimming and the RPM's of the vehicle coming down every time these things hit, then by all means hard wire it without the cap.