My 1st Gen Audio Build
#1
02-26-2011, 11:59 PM
My 1st Gen Audio Build
So, part of the process of the redemption of my truck (see the thread HERE) is an extensive audio build, of course! I have always been a bit of an audiophile, and its really how I got started with cars. I used to install radios in the DQ parking lot on my break from flipping burgers!
Anyway, I just wanted to share some stuff with you guys that I plan on doing.
First, here is the parts list:
Amplifier: Polk PA1100.5
Front Speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear Speakers: Infinity Kappa 50.9cs
Subwoofer: Alpine SWR-T10
Now comes the awesome part (at least in my opinion)... Since I was looking for a somewhat stealth install, and I needed room for more gauges (I am indeed a gauge *****)... I decided that I would run the system from my DR0ID phone and use the old stereo location for 3 gauges. This is not as complicated as it sounds, but it will be pretty unique.
Also, I am going to make a custom mount for the amp, which will sit under the bottom of my custom center console (woodworking skills =
). The center console will also house the Alpine sub. I chose a shallow mount because in a regular bed, there isn't a whole lot of room to work with, and I shouldn't waste what little space I have.
For the rear speakers, I am using the infinity 5.25" component speakers. This I intend to make some custom speaker boxes to fit in the little cubby hole behind the B pillar (where the seat belt mounts). These I will be making out of wood and fiberglass, with some reflective sound deadening on the rear to direct the sound into the cab. These will be the toughest part of the build, since I am not that great with fiberglass (I have very little patience for that kind of stuff).
For the front speakers, a little trimming will be required in the door, but I am not worried about it. I also plan to cut the grille out of the door panel, and replace it with speaker fabric. This will allow a little better sound transmission, and will go with the custom, 'nothing has been left untouched' look I am going for with the truck.
Some parts have been ordered and should be arriving in the coming week, so I will have pics of the goods to show then!!!
So, those are the plans. Pretty extensive, but I am pretty excited. Updates will be slow for a little while, as I finish up the exterior of the truck, but I have to have something to do on these all too common rainy, spring days in Illinois. Once the exterior is done, I will get to rocking on the interior a bit more. Hope y'all watch my progress and enjoy!
Until next time... 
Anyway, I just wanted to share some stuff with you guys that I plan on doing.
First, here is the parts list:
Amplifier: Polk PA1100.5
Front Speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear Speakers: Infinity Kappa 50.9cs
Subwoofer: Alpine SWR-T10
Now comes the awesome part (at least in my opinion)... Since I was looking for a somewhat stealth install, and I needed room for more gauges (I am indeed a gauge *****)... I decided that I would run the system from my DR0ID phone and use the old stereo location for 3 gauges. This is not as complicated as it sounds, but it will be pretty unique.
Also, I am going to make a custom mount for the amp, which will sit under the bottom of my custom center console (woodworking skills =
). The center console will also house the Alpine sub. I chose a shallow mount because in a regular bed, there isn't a whole lot of room to work with, and I shouldn't waste what little space I have. For the rear speakers, I am using the infinity 5.25" component speakers. This I intend to make some custom speaker boxes to fit in the little cubby hole behind the B pillar (where the seat belt mounts). These I will be making out of wood and fiberglass, with some reflective sound deadening on the rear to direct the sound into the cab. These will be the toughest part of the build, since I am not that great with fiberglass (I have very little patience for that kind of stuff).
For the front speakers, a little trimming will be required in the door, but I am not worried about it. I also plan to cut the grille out of the door panel, and replace it with speaker fabric. This will allow a little better sound transmission, and will go with the custom, 'nothing has been left untouched' look I am going for with the truck.
Some parts have been ordered and should be arriving in the coming week, so I will have pics of the goods to show then!!!
So, those are the plans. Pretty extensive, but I am pretty excited. Updates will be slow for a little while, as I finish up the exterior of the truck, but I have to have something to do on these all too common rainy, spring days in Illinois. Once the exterior is done, I will get to rocking on the interior a bit more. Hope y'all watch my progress and enjoy!
Until next time...
Last edited by mkriebs; 02-27-2011 at 12:04 AM.
#2
02-27-2011, 12:37 PM
I never found a need for rear speakers in my car and my passengers never complained. A properly built and tuned front stage will be perfect. Factoring in some extra work for making room for rear speakers kills it for me. Not sealing the back of the speakers will result in a lack of midbass. The rear wave needs to be separated from the front.
Even if you do decide to keep the rear speakers, I would personally focus more on the fronts: a set of 6.5" components instead of the 6x9's, some minimal sound deadening, a solid baffle to mount the speakers and sealing off the gaps in the doors will make tremendous difference in sound quality and output. These minimalist treatments of the doors have always had good results for me, the customers being happy with the outcome and not wanting an upgrade in speakers. Cost involved is minimum and the work is well worth it.
Droid idea sounds good, so does the center console thing. If you need help with the box design I can whip up some plans and sketches. You just need to post measurements of the space you have.
Do you already have the speakers ?
What kind of mounting depth do you have available for the sub ? If you have 5-6 inches of mounting depth you have way way more options. $450 is A LOT for that sub
Even if you do decide to keep the rear speakers, I would personally focus more on the fronts: a set of 6.5" components instead of the 6x9's, some minimal sound deadening, a solid baffle to mount the speakers and sealing off the gaps in the doors will make tremendous difference in sound quality and output. These minimalist treatments of the doors have always had good results for me, the customers being happy with the outcome and not wanting an upgrade in speakers. Cost involved is minimum and the work is well worth it.
Droid idea sounds good, so does the center console thing. If you need help with the box design I can whip up some plans and sketches. You just need to post measurements of the space you have.
Do you already have the speakers ?
What kind of mounting depth do you have available for the sub ? If you have 5-6 inches of mounting depth you have way way more options. $450 is A LOT for that sub
Last edited by AdrianD; 02-27-2011 at 12:44 PM.
The following users liked this post:
mkriebs (02-27-2011)
#3
02-27-2011, 04:03 PM
I never found a need for rear speakers in my car and my passengers never complained. A properly built and tuned front stage will be perfect. Factoring in some extra work for making room for rear speakers kills it for me. Not sealing the back of the speakers will result in a lack of midbass. The rear wave needs to be separated from the front.
Even if you do decide to keep the rear speakers, I would personally focus more on the fronts: a set of 6.5" components instead of the 6x9's, some minimal sound deadening, a solid baffle to mount the speakers and sealing off the gaps in the doors will make tremendous difference in sound quality and output. These minimalist treatments of the doors have always had good results for me, the customers being happy with the outcome and not wanting an upgrade in speakers. Cost involved is minimum and the work is well worth it.
Droid idea sounds good, so does the center console thing. If you need help with the box design I can whip up some plans and sketches. You just need to post measurements of the space you have.
Do you already have the speakers ?
What kind of mounting depth do you have available for the sub ? If you have 5-6 inches of mounting depth you have way way more options. $450 is A LOT for that sub
Even if you do decide to keep the rear speakers, I would personally focus more on the fronts: a set of 6.5" components instead of the 6x9's, some minimal sound deadening, a solid baffle to mount the speakers and sealing off the gaps in the doors will make tremendous difference in sound quality and output. These minimalist treatments of the doors have always had good results for me, the customers being happy with the outcome and not wanting an upgrade in speakers. Cost involved is minimum and the work is well worth it.
Droid idea sounds good, so does the center console thing. If you need help with the box design I can whip up some plans and sketches. You just need to post measurements of the space you have.
Do you already have the speakers ?
What kind of mounting depth do you have available for the sub ? If you have 5-6 inches of mounting depth you have way way more options. $450 is A LOT for that sub
the front speakers are a component set of 6x9s and the rear are components too. Are there any advantages to a round speaker over an oval speaker? I don't have the speakers just yet...
Also the box will be easily sealed on the back just with fiberglass. I don't think it will be too much of a hassle for me to get that right. also... I want to keep the sub mount shallow so I hav the most room for the center console. I am not buying from crutchfield just using links for reference. No worries on price! Thanks for the kind words!
Last edited by mkriebs; 02-27-2011 at 04:07 PM.
#4
02-28-2011, 01:13 PM
6x9 cones are always going to be severely lacking in improvements in shape, for strength and node control, which means they won't sound as good as 6.5's. Doesn't matter if the door locations are for 6x9's, a baffle will fix that quick.
Infinity has never excelled in components, at least in my point of view. Try to find some shop which sells components and ask for a listen in their stand. It will give you a bit of perspective on how they will sound. IMO hearing for yourself will beat most recommendations.
Look at this as an alternative for that shallow Alpine:
SSA Shop- SSA Dcon 10D4 Sub woofer300watt rms
Maybe you could fit one and still have room for the center console.
I want to emphasize that the front doors are where you need to get things right and where some effort will be rewarding. I'll have to look for some pics to show what I mean by door work.
Infinity has never excelled in components, at least in my point of view. Try to find some shop which sells components and ask for a listen in their stand. It will give you a bit of perspective on how they will sound. IMO hearing for yourself will beat most recommendations.
Look at this as an alternative for that shallow Alpine:
SSA Shop- SSA Dcon 10D4 Sub woofer300watt rms
Maybe you could fit one and still have room for the center console.
I want to emphasize that the front doors are where you need to get things right and where some effort will be rewarding. I'll have to look for some pics to show what I mean by door work.
Last edited by AdrianD; 02-28-2011 at 01:16 PM.
The following users liked this post:
mkriebs (02-28-2011)
#5
02-28-2011, 01:24 PM
6x9 cones are always going to be severely lacking in improvements in shape, for strength and node control, which means they won't sound as good as 6.5's. Doesn't matter if the door locations are for 6x9's, a baffle will fix that quick.
Infinity has never excelled in components, at least in my point of view. Try to find some shop which sells components and ask for a listen in their stand. It will give you a bit of perspective on how they will sound. IMO hearing for yourself will beat most recommendations.
Look at this as an alternative for that shallow Alpine:
SSA Shop- SSA Dcon 10D4 Sub woofer300watt rms
Maybe you could fit one and still have room for the center console.
I want to emphasize that the front doors are where you need to get things right and where some effort will be rewarding. I'll have to look for some pics to show what I mean by door work.
Infinity has never excelled in components, at least in my point of view. Try to find some shop which sells components and ask for a listen in their stand. It will give you a bit of perspective on how they will sound. IMO hearing for yourself will beat most recommendations.
Look at this as an alternative for that shallow Alpine:
SSA Shop- SSA Dcon 10D4 Sub woofer300watt rms
Maybe you could fit one and still have room for the center console.
I want to emphasize that the front doors are where you need to get things right and where some effort will be rewarding. I'll have to look for some pics to show what I mean by door work.
I am, however a fan of the Alipine Type R subs, and I am pretty set on getting that one. The price on Crutchfield is about 1/3 more than what I would have to pay for it, and 1/4 more expensive than the market avg for most of their products. C-Field is ridiculous, and I don't know how they stay in business. Like I said, the links are merely for referential purposes.
I do plan on doing some research on exactly what to do to the doors. I am putting sound deadening in them, for sure. Just to help cut down on road noise. Also, thinking about a more solid mounting surface, and something to keep the speaker from moving itself, right?
Again, thanks for all the help. Definitely getting excited for this build. It will be the most comprehensive build I have done to date, and I wanna do it right while not breaking the bank. The good thing though... I have a pretty unrestricted budget for this, so I am going to spend money where I need to.
#6
02-28-2011, 02:48 PM
This won't go for show sound quality. More like getting the most of the actual speakers.
Always remember, the end result is 5% product, 90% install and 5% beer
Here's an example of door work, it was a bit overboard with the deadener but it shows some points.
See the big gaping holes,
They are mostly covered. I was asked to leave some of them open for a tint install. You need to cover all holes. Add something to provide support for the deadener (chicken wire, metal strips, maybe a complete cover out of fiberglass if you get bored).
Solid baffle will help speaker response by not having the speaker flop around.
I had to work here with what I had, so the standard baffle was strengthened and deadened:
I kind of feel like I hijacked the topic with those pics but I think they explain more than I can type.
For all your deadening needs:
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information
Some very good info there too.
Major part of the deadener role in the door (outer skin and inner skin) will be to cut down resonances induced by the speaker, resulting like with a solid baffle in a better frequency response.
I always tell my customers and friends that I suck at suggesting component sets because whatever I run is a mix and match. To add to that, I'm mostly familiar with stuff available here in Europe. So unless you plan on getting a head unit like the Alpine 9887 or Pioneer P880 and use the active crossovers I can't help very much on speaker selection
I have found lower end Focal components to sound a bit too bright on the top end. Some say their higher end lines are similar.
You could take a look at Ascendant Audio, they have a mix and match component set (Seas tweeters and their own made midbass, both very good speakers). I don't know much about the crossover but they are well worth an email for more info
Ascendantaudio.com
5% product, 90% install and 5% beer...
Always remember, the end result is 5% product, 90% install and 5% beer
Here's an example of door work, it was a bit overboard with the deadener but it shows some points.
See the big gaping holes,
They are mostly covered. I was asked to leave some of them open for a tint install. You need to cover all holes. Add something to provide support for the deadener (chicken wire, metal strips, maybe a complete cover out of fiberglass if you get bored).
Solid baffle will help speaker response by not having the speaker flop around.
I had to work here with what I had, so the standard baffle was strengthened and deadened:
I kind of feel like I hijacked the topic with those pics but I think they explain more than I can type.
For all your deadening needs:
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information
Some very good info there too.
Major part of the deadener role in the door (outer skin and inner skin) will be to cut down resonances induced by the speaker, resulting like with a solid baffle in a better frequency response.
I always tell my customers and friends that I suck at suggesting component sets because whatever I run is a mix and match. To add to that, I'm mostly familiar with stuff available here in Europe. So unless you plan on getting a head unit like the Alpine 9887 or Pioneer P880 and use the active crossovers I can't help very much on speaker selection
I have found lower end Focal components to sound a bit too bright on the top end. Some say their higher end lines are similar.
You could take a look at Ascendant Audio, they have a mix and match component set (Seas tweeters and their own made midbass, both very good speakers). I don't know much about the crossover but they are well worth an email for more info
Ascendantaudio.com
5% product, 90% install and 5% beer...
Last edited by AdrianD; 02-28-2011 at 02:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
mkriebs (02-28-2011)
#7
02-28-2011, 04:26 PM
Thanks Adrian! I will definitely keep that in mind. Think I might just stick with the Infinity. the price is right, and the older infinity's I have heard are pretty nice for my ears. I have done quite a bit of research on em, and I like what I see. Not that I don't want to take your advice, I just have to work with what I have available, for the price I can get em, ya know?
#9
03-01-2011, 03:12 PM
Massive amp is massive:
185629_10150425315130228_533925227_17468239_8141234_n.jpg?t=1299013763
Polk PA1100.5, 1200W, 5 channels. This is gonna be good!
