guages blink with use of subs need help!!!
#22
02-03-2011, 05:58 PM
Diesel Fan
#23
02-04-2011, 01:28 AM
I have three class A amps in my car for a total of 1825w continuous @ 4 ohms 20-20,000 hz producing 168db of sound pressure with a max of .04% thd. One amp pulls a continuous current draw of 90 amps, one amp pulls 60 amps and the third amp pulls 30 amps for a total of 180 amps of continuous current draw on my charging system...
Unless you measure inside the box, I'm having a very hard time believing.
EDIT: with 180 amps drawn from the electrical system (I'm assuming it's the max current consumption) you are around 70% efficiency, which is a cool dream for a Class A amp.
Last edited by AdrianD; 02-04-2011 at 01:54 AM.
#24
02-04-2011, 08:20 AM
Diesel Fan
Oh so this has turned into a flame forum?
AdrianD, 1825w is the continuous rating of my amps at a 4ohm load at 20-20,000hz (925w of that is per channel which would take it to 2750w continuous at a 4 ohm load)... I never said they were all running in a 4ohm config as I do have two .5 ohm stable amps
you are correct in the assumption that 180 amps is max current draw
I am not here to pound my chest or to say "mine is bigger/better than yours" etc etc as it really doesn't matter to me whether or not you believe me and I have absolutely nothing to prove to you
The topic here is about someone having dimming issues whenever they turn up their audio volume... as a solution some are saying to place caps in line and some are saying to fix charging issues. I merely used my audio and charging system setup as an example of the issues I had with using caps prior to upgrading my charging system...
although they do help, caps will NOT fix an overdrawn charging system
AdrianD, 1825w is the continuous rating of my amps at a 4ohm load at 20-20,000hz (925w of that is per channel which would take it to 2750w continuous at a 4 ohm load)... I never said they were all running in a 4ohm config as I do have two .5 ohm stable amps
you are correct in the assumption that 180 amps is max current draw
I am not here to pound my chest or to say "mine is bigger/better than yours" etc etc as it really doesn't matter to me whether or not you believe me and I have absolutely nothing to prove to you
The topic here is about someone having dimming issues whenever they turn up their audio volume... as a solution some are saying to place caps in line and some are saying to fix charging issues. I merely used my audio and charging system setup as an example of the issues I had with using caps prior to upgrading my charging system...
although they do help, caps will NOT fix an overdrawn charging system
Last edited by celticnonic; 02-04-2011 at 08:33 AM.
#26
02-07-2011, 01:27 AM
Oh so this has turned into a flame forum?
AdrianD, 1825w is the continuous rating of my amps at a 4ohm load at 20-20,000hz (925w of that is per channel which would take it to 2750w continuous at a 4 ohm load)... I never said they were all running in a 4ohm config as I do have two .5 ohm stable amps
you are correct in the assumption that 180 amps is max current draw
AdrianD, 1825w is the continuous rating of my amps at a 4ohm load at 20-20,000hz (925w of that is per channel which would take it to 2750w continuous at a 4 ohm load)... I never said they were all running in a 4ohm config as I do have two .5 ohm stable amps
you are correct in the assumption that 180 amps is max current draw
/offtopic.
#28
03-22-2011, 11:45 AM
Anyone think it'd be a bad idea to run a separate AGM or SLA battery for the stereo system, use a battery isolator and mount the battery back right near the amplifier?
It'd allow you to run the stereo without idling the truck and you won't have to worry about a dead battery stranding you. Great for tailgate parties or at the beach.
Although I'm sure there's a drawback to my idea... Things always "sounded like a good idea at the time" and then a fire breaks out.
It'd allow you to run the stereo without idling the truck and you won't have to worry about a dead battery stranding you. Great for tailgate parties or at the beach.
Although I'm sure there's a drawback to my idea... Things always "sounded like a good idea at the time" and then a fire breaks out.
#29
03-22-2011, 05:57 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
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#30
03-23-2011, 05:37 PM
Hmmm,
real Class A amplifiers have a maxium power efficiency of 7% to achieve a permanent non switching output. Transfered into a 1825W system output this equals into a neat power consumption of 26.000W or 26kW and gigantic cooling surfaces to get rid of the convection heat!
How do you provide the needed power, Mr. Scott?
real Class A amplifiers have a maxium power efficiency of 7% to achieve a permanent non switching output. Transfered into a 1825W system output this equals into a neat power consumption of 26.000W or 26kW and gigantic cooling surfaces to get rid of the convection heat!
How do you provide the needed power, Mr. Scott?
