Soundproofing on the cheap
#21
08-05-2010, 09:53 PM
thanks good if its butyl thats great,i am gonna try to go by lowes this weekend and check it out
#22
08-16-2010, 03:08 PM
Its asphalt.
Using this material for roof repair - Peel and Seal™ Factory Recommendations
I found a place that has it in wider widths but it is closer to $1.75 a SQ FT. I've been trying to find some with a Butyl based adhesive but all the stuff I have found so far is either 2-4" wide and close to $2 SQ FT or so.
Peel and Seal Click Here | Roof Repair | Mobile Home Parts - Magic Mobile Home Supply, Inc.
Heres some links to some Butyl based stuff
http://www.findtape.com/product565/N...yl+Rubber+Tape
http://www.findtape.com/shop/product...h=991&height=0
Using this material for roof repair - Peel and Seal™ Factory Recommendations
I found a place that has it in wider widths but it is closer to $1.75 a SQ FT. I've been trying to find some with a Butyl based adhesive but all the stuff I have found so far is either 2-4" wide and close to $2 SQ FT or so.
Peel and Seal Click Here | Roof Repair | Mobile Home Parts - Magic Mobile Home Supply, Inc.
Heres some links to some Butyl based stuff
http://www.findtape.com/product565/N...yl+Rubber+Tape
http://www.findtape.com/shop/product...h=991&height=0
Last edited by kazairl; 08-16-2010 at 03:20 PM.
#25
08-25-2010, 06:05 PM
3 ways to nullify sound.
1- add mass
2- block sound
3- absorb sound
1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash.
2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening.
3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat.
Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear)
1- add mass
2- block sound
3- absorb sound
1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash.
2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening.
3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat.
Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear)
#26
08-29-2010, 03:54 AM
I picked that tip up from another forum. I've never used any Dynamat or anything like that but it seems to be made out of a similiar material.
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information
This website mentions that 25% is the most effective. Any more dampening you gain by adding more isn't worth the added cost. Also only flat sections of metal need the dampening. Curved or bent/shaped sections are stronger and don't vibrate as much.
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information
This website mentions that 25% is the most effective. Any more dampening you gain by adding more isn't worth the added cost. Also only flat sections of metal need the dampening. Curved or bent/shaped sections are stronger and don't vibrate as much.
And he is indeed right.
Combine the CLD tiles with the MLV (or any other diy barrier, as long as it's dense and pliable) and you will be way better of than covering the whole car in layers of deadener and/or foam. I'm still looking for alternatives to MLV to do the Jeep..old diesels aren't exactly quiet.
3 ways to nullify sound.
1- add mass
2- block sound
3- absorb sound
1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash.
2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening.
3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat.
Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear)
1- add mass
2- block sound
3- absorb sound
1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash.
2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening.
3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat.
Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear)
Last edited by AdrianD; 08-29-2010 at 03:57 AM.
#27
09-05-2010, 10:18 AM
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