im havin a problem with my stereo, when i turn it up to about 50 (out of 62), it will work for about 5 minutes, then all of a sudden the music cuts out n it just starts cracklin thru the speakers. i can turn it down to about 30 n i can hear the music again. if i turn the radio off for about 10 minutes, turn it back on n i can crank it right back up to 50. anybody have any idea what the problem is? i replaced the stereo once cuz i thought it was the problem but it didn't fix it. thinkin maybe blown speakers???? i hate electricity but i like country music so i gotta fix this...

 

How is the stereo wired into your truck?

Most stock decks dont have a mosfet amp like it sounds as if yours does. So what happens is the amp (inside stereo) sucks all the power the factory 14 or 16ga wire can carry.

What I would recomoned is it run a new 12 ga power and ground to the head unit from the fuse block and that there should cure your problem with cutting out.

Also check all connections as a loose wire in the dash could cause problems too.

 

well i drove over to my girlfriends house n now i cant turn it up above 35 at all, it just squeals n crackels thru just the passenger side front speaker... what the hell is this things problem???? did i mention i hate electronics?

 

Sounds loke a good time to upgrade head unit

 

What type (brand name) of head unit is it?
I found a similar problem on the late 90's Ford trucks. Solution was the passenger front speaker had to be wired reverse polarity.

Vehicle Wiring color codes
DODGE/CHRYSLER
S p e a k e r s
Right Front (+) Violet
Right Front (-) Blue/Red
Left Front (+) Green
Left Front (-) Brown/Red
Right Rear (+) Blue/White
Right Rear (-) Blue/Red
Left Rear (+) Brown/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Brown/Red

Aftermarket Head Unit Codes
Sony, Alpine, Pioneer (1999 and up), Eclipse, Kenwood, JVC, etc
S p e a k e r s
Right Front (+) Gray
Right Front (-) Gray/Black
Left Front (+) White
Left Front (-) White/Black
Right Rear (+) Violet
Right Rear (-) Violet/Black
Left Rear (+) Green
Left Rear (-) Green/Black

If you really hate electronics, take it to a reputable shop and let them figure out the problem. Tell them up front what it's doing, maybe they can fix it for the standard $35.00labor charge or at least you'll know what is wrong.

 

speakers should work fine in reverse polarity the cone just moves in rather than out, sounds like your headunits inernal power supply is going, its overheating and shutting the unit off untill it cools of and then comes back, in most cases not worth fixing unless its very expensive head unit

 

Yeah, i agree with "ukrmaf"... It sounds like one of two problems... Your head unit's internal amp is bad/going bad, or you have an ohms problem which is causing overheating and thus amp cuts out or "clips"... When you turn it down, it has a chance to cool some (note: some) and plays like normal for a little while until it gets hot again, thus the volume level: 35... MOST head units handle a 4 ohm load... Most auto speakers are 4 ohms... If you have two four ohm speakers ran possitive to possitive to head unit, then you are creating a 2ohm load, and so on... Check your ohm rating on your speaker(s) and be sure that you don't go below the ohm rating on your head unit (usually 4 ohm per channel)

If your speakers are 4 ohm and your head unit supports 4 ohm load per channel, then you should only have ONE speaker connected to ONE channel of your head unit... If this is the case, then you have a head unit internal amp problem... Chances are you will be buying a new unit...

As far as polarity... It doesn't matter as far as the equipment goes, but your quality will suffer... When you have different pollarities (possitive/negative terminals), your speakers will sound flat or spacey... This happens because one speaker might be moving inward while another is moving outward, basically cancelling the audio waves being produced and being that the speakers make no sound at all and our ear(s) creates the sound, it cancels the audio waves when stricking the ear drums... Always connect pos to pos and neg to neg, just as a good habit...

 

Probably just overheating, UPGRADE!

 

YES As already stated by others, your headunit's internal IC final output may be going bad barring the possibility of too low an ohms load at the speaker or to small a gauge constant power wire.

dmaxtothemax:
"As far as polarity... It doesn't matter as far as the equipment goes, but your quality will suffer... When you have different pollarities (possitive/negative terminals), your speakers will sound flat or spacey... This happens because one speaker might be moving inward while another is moving outward, basically cancelling the audio waves being produced and being that the speakers make no sound at all and our ear(s) creates the sound, it cancels the audio waves when stricking the ear drums... Always connect pos to pos and neg to neg, just as a good habit..."


What dmaxtothemax is talking about is called * SPEAKERS BEING IN "PHASE". *

EVEN IF the vehicle manufacture says so and so wire is positive and so and so wire is negative, it is not beyond some screw up in MADE IN MEXICO factory wiring harness sub contractors to get the wiring incorrect. Yes the late 1990's FORD Trucks.

A simple speaker polarity tester is a 1.5 VOLT C or D cell battery. NEVER connect 12 volts DC to a speaker.

Pay attention to which speaker wire is attached to the positive of the 1.5 VOLT battery. When the battery is momentarily contacted to the speaker leads, you will see the speaker either move outwards or inwards. You want to see it move outwards, thus when this occurs, the wire to the positve of the 1.5 VOLT battery is the positive lead to the suspect speaker.
Now this may be a two person job, as most factory speaker covers block your vision.
Enlist the help of someone if your vision to the suspect speaker is limited.

Give us an update Cummins95, we want to hear the status of your problem.

 

PSD Interceptor, Awesome! I've actually never tried this, but I will next time i'm confused about my polarity...