Audio Equipment/Electrical Discussions Based on Automotive Stereo Equipment Such As Amps , Head Units & Speakers Including Installation and System Set Up Information. Electrical or wiring issues on anything that requires wiring.

Bridging Amps

Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:16 PM
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Question Bridging Amps

once you bridge a bridgable amp does it mess it up where you cant go back to using 2 subs or speakers ?

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:17 PM
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not unless you happen to burn out a one of the channels.....
 
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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thanks, guess i got a bad amp outta the box, the only way it works is to bridge it

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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some times there is a switch on the amp for bridging it. what brand amp is it?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:17 AM
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Yeah, tell us what it is. If it's working when you bridge it, it should work unbridged. It's possible that something is burned up... but I'd imagine you're not setting something right. No offense! I just wanna help.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Some of them are "switched" and others just use the amount of resistance to determine bridging i.e. wire placement on the outputs. Post up what amp it is some that someone can determine whether yours is switched or not.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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its a pioneer, 760 watt

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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pioneer use to have a bridge and stereo switch on them back in the day. i'm hoping that you are using this amp for mid range and hi's as (in my own opinion) their amps are worthless for subs. i'd check and make sure there isn't a switch somewhere that could cause this situation.

please post up the model number so i can research it a little more and i'll more than likely be able to get you a definate answer on that as i did stereo installs for 5 years after highschool and had one of the loudest super-street 3-4 vehicles in the southeast. (just a little bit of useless background info on me)
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Benjamin
pioneer use to have a bridge and stereo switch on them back in the day. i'm hoping that you are using this amp for mid range and hi's as (in my own opinion) their amps are worthless for subs. i'd check and make sure there isn't a switch somewhere that could cause this situation.

please post up the model number so i can research it a little more and i'll more than likely be able to get you a definate answer on that as i did stereo installs for 5 years after highschool and had one of the loudest super-street 3-4 vehicles in the southeast. (just a little bit of useless background info on me)
I always knew you had a little brother in you.
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RSWORDS
I always knew you had a little brother in you.
oh no..... that dosen't mean i had 4 6x9's in the back deck. i was corporate sponsored and had 4 prototype Lightning Audio Spangey (that's what they were called when i got them) 15" woofers and 8 HOT Lightning Audio Strike Series S1.1000D amps.... they bench tested 1680 watts RMS each instead of the 1000 peak that the average consumer recieved when buying them..... that's 13,440 watts total power..... ~162-164db ....... a jet engine taking off is ~140db........ the perception of increases in decibels is for every 10db increase it is percieved to be twice as loud so 20db would be 4 times as loud....... i could set off car alarms, business alarms, knock paint cans off walls at friends shops, could litterally blur people's vision when they sat in the van, it made it almost impossable to take a swallow of drink....... man i wasted a bunch of money on that stuff....... anyway i also have perminant hearing damage due to not wearing ear protection and now i regret it every day when i can't hear people talking sometimes, my ears ring constantly, it's hard to sleep and i have chronic ear aches. so PLEASE and i'm not preaching but asking you to to listen safely, your ears will thank you later.
 

Last edited by Benjamin; May 1, 2008 at 05:08 PM.
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