Bulk sound mat...
#11
Woah....guys....
Watch what you are getting. You need a butyl based deadener. Also need to make sure the foil/vinyl is rigid.
If you want inexpensive deadener that is great stuff.....look into Audio Technix and Murdermat.
I use AT in my personal vehicles. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. Actually looking to distribute their products in the spring if all goes well. They have great customer service and products at great prices.
Watch what you are getting. You need a butyl based deadener. Also need to make sure the foil/vinyl is rigid.
If you want inexpensive deadener that is great stuff.....look into Audio Technix and Murdermat.
I use AT in my personal vehicles. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. Actually looking to distribute their products in the spring if all goes well. They have great customer service and products at great prices.
The following users liked this post:
RAW (11-15-2012)
#13
Yeah there is a decent difference with just the deadener. But in order to do it the right way, a guy needs to do all 3 steps. Deadener is just one step in the process.
Step 1 - Remove/Lower resonance of panels - adding mass/changing the resonating to heat instead
Step 2 - Decouple the panel from the sound barrier - Closed cell foam allows very little transferance of vibration to sound barrier.
Step 3 - Sound Barrier - MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is a very heavy, dense sound blocker. If we could use lead, we would. But it is impracticable. This is available in 1 lb/sq ft and 2 lb/sq ft weights.
By using these 3 steps properly you can have similar quietness of luxury sedans. It is a lot of work, but well worth the results.
Step 1 - Remove/Lower resonance of panels - adding mass/changing the resonating to heat instead
Step 2 - Decouple the panel from the sound barrier - Closed cell foam allows very little transferance of vibration to sound barrier.
Step 3 - Sound Barrier - MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is a very heavy, dense sound blocker. If we could use lead, we would. But it is impracticable. This is available in 1 lb/sq ft and 2 lb/sq ft weights.
By using these 3 steps properly you can have similar quietness of luxury sedans. It is a lot of work, but well worth the results.
#14
Thickness is something that comes to mind. If these layers get too thick, panels may not fit on as well. I was planning on making a tub, so to speak, or a sounds deadening product. From the bottom of the windshield down, along the floor, and up to the bottom of the rear window. There is currently nothing below the rear window, not even carpet. Then do the doors up to the windows.
#15
Yeah, panel fitment is usually a lot more sung with everything underneath.
You also must remember that you are doing the outer door skins with deadener, inner sheetmetal with deadener, the ccf is very thin, and the mlv is about an 1/8" thick.
If you are bored around Red Deer one day, hit me up and I can give ya an example. I have deadener/foam/mlv on my floor and back wall, and deadener on doors right now. Carpet is out. Just seats at the moment. Also have deadener under the headliner.
You also must remember that you are doing the outer door skins with deadener, inner sheetmetal with deadener, the ccf is very thin, and the mlv is about an 1/8" thick.
If you are bored around Red Deer one day, hit me up and I can give ya an example. I have deadener/foam/mlv on my floor and back wall, and deadener on doors right now. Carpet is out. Just seats at the moment. Also have deadener under the headliner.
#16
Woah....guys....
Watch what you are getting. You need a butyl based deadener. Also need to make sure the foil/vinyl is rigid.
If you want inexpensive deadener that is great stuff.....look into Audio Technix and Murdermat.
I use AT in my personal vehicles. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. Actually looking to distribute their products in the spring if all goes well. They have great customer service and products at great prices.
Watch what you are getting. You need a butyl based deadener. Also need to make sure the foil/vinyl is rigid.
If you want inexpensive deadener that is great stuff.....look into Audio Technix and Murdermat.
I use AT in my personal vehicles. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. Actually looking to distribute their products in the spring if all goes well. They have great customer service and products at great prices.
BTW, even the good butyl mats have 20% asphalt. All of the mats need a primer IMO to stick. Without a primer it holds 3 lbs per inch. With a primer it's over 90.
#17
Yeah and B-Quiet is not a product I would recommend. Yes deadeners started out 15 years ago totally asphalt based. There is a reason new products come out. Deadener is not the same thing it was back then. Peel and Seal is not good for your vehicle.
Also I can tell you that not all mats have "20% asphalt" in them. Yes there is an adhesive, and no you don't need a primer for them to stick.
I could get you the chemical breakdown of some of them, but it is proprietary, and I am not authorized to release that information.
Please do not think that today's deadeners are anything like your window tape and flashing, because they are not.
Also I can tell you that not all mats have "20% asphalt" in them. Yes there is an adhesive, and no you don't need a primer for them to stick.
I could get you the chemical breakdown of some of them, but it is proprietary, and I am not authorized to release that information.
Please do not think that today's deadeners are anything like your window tape and flashing, because they are not.
#18
And lets face it, the mat isn't the biggest step anyhow. The closed cell foam and MLV is what makes the biggest difference.
The sound mat game has to be one of the biggest pissoffs to me. All these deadener dealers are just middle men talking smack about each others product. They all outsource the product from overseas and label it as their own.
#20
All this sound mat is the same product from a couple different sources. Different thicknesses are the only difference.