I've been looking into a turbo and injectors and cant find if my current Banks power elbow will fit anything else. I will try to reuse it not to waste the money and its incl. 4" downpipe. I assume it'd fit the gtp38r since it looks very similar to stock?

Maybe I shouldn't worry about it and get the "modded" H2e? If so who's is best? I am needing to take the time to see if I indeed have pmr's but I'm assuming I do and want to take the power up to reasonably safe (400ish?) levels.

 

The banks power elbow will fit the 38R and thats it... If you go with an H2e it comes with a down pipe anyway...

What is your HP goal?

 

Thanks for the power elbow info, it was probably a waste of money as the 38r just seems too easy or too stock for some reason. Is the h2e kit fully bolt on or fabrication required? Who's is best? I might have seen someone has a optional wastegated h2e kit, if i set it at 40 psi could I skip head studs for now? Quick spooling(for a manual trans.) and egt reduction both possible?

My goal is a few horse short of catastrophic engine failure. If I'd get off the internet and see if I indeed have pmr's it sounds like 400 hp or so since I won't be updating to forged rods unless I blow the motor. If I luck out and have factory forged rods, how many horsepower is "safe" then?


too many questions, too little patience...sorry for long post

 

Pretty PMR safe combo in my opinion...

H2e or 38R
238/100 hybrids
Studs
910 Valve springs...

Good tuning.

 

Damn, studs and springs too. Hadn't planned on those. I was thinking the injector swap might be all I wanted to get into myself. I'm guessing valvesprings arent a simple remove and replace kind of deal Am I right the heads have to come off to get certain studs in place for clearance reasons?

 

No... It can all be done in the truck... The rear studs are a bit of a bugger but you can loosen the motor mounts and rotate the motor over a little.

Springs are not bad, pull injectors or glow plug and bar the motor over until each one is at TDC, then swap springs.

 

So I can do the studs one at a time and keep the factory head gasket? Its only got 31000 mi. on it. Torque sequence work like that?

And the valves don't fall in the cylinder if I figure out where tdc is correctly?

I've checked a little and havent found any writeups here on the DIY studs and springs, does anyone know of one?

How much would you back off that recipe if I didn't do studs and springs? Probably dumb not to while the valve covers are off but just wondered.

 

With higher mileage motors you can get away with no studs because the gasket has a better seal, but with newer gaskets I would be concerned a bit...

You could skip springs before I would skip studs.