Ive been thinking about taking some 3/8 steel plate and a hefty piece of C-channel lined with some steel. Then cutting the plate to match the frame width with 4-6 5/8 grade 8 bolts on each side then take the lined C-channel cut a hole then weld the hitch on the top and the nut, then weld the channel directly over the rear axle. Post some pictures of your homemade gooseneck hitch set-up. Thanks

 

i always use a piece of 6in and 7in channel and put the 6 in the 7 and box it in. then put a small 3/8 plate on top and cut the hole for the ball. havent broke one yet. grossed up to 53k with this setup.

 

and the hitch doesnt cause a dip in the channel were it is mounted?

 

I have a friend who has that. In the bed there's a 3/8" plate, under the bed there's a 3-4" C-channel. The ball goes through the plate, through the ball, then through the c-channel, then the nut. He's had around 20k hitched to this with no visible damage, but it looks hokey to me. I see plenty of examples of 1"-thick mild steel plates bolted and / or welded to the tops of the pickup's frame rails, with the ball then bolted through the middle of this, peeking through the floor of the pickup box. This seems well-proven, but nowhere near as convenient as the B&W turnover ball. However, there's a video on youtube showing the B&W flexing a lot!

 

They make plates with ***** on them that you can buy and then just weld/bolt the C channel underneath to reduce flexing. I run this setup and it hasn't failed me yet. Plate and a ball would be cheaper though. If you want I can post pics half done so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

ya pictures would help alot if you have the time

 

It's not done at this point I was just drilling the holes, but you can get the idea. This is my 99 and I welded 5" C channel underneath this one because I could hammer it in between the C channel frame. I've had probably 10K on it and no flex. If you have tubular frame; you can just weld/bolt 3" C channel underneath. I could take some pics from below if you need more direction.





---AutoMerged DoublePost---

BTW: The plate costs ~$120 from a trailer shop or ~$140 from tractor supply. I believe they are rated at 25K with support underneath.

 

ok that helps alot thanks

 

No problem. Just remember if you go with the 5" C channel; check your clearance between the rear end and the C channel. Wouldn't want to crack your rear end when you hit a large bump. I had to cut mine out a bit in that area so it didn't hit when the suspension bottomed out.