Ok as some of you know I bought a 96 12V now I am building for sled pulling but after some things were brought to my attention I am going to do a mixed breed... Drag and Puller

now my question is who is runs a lightened crank?
I can get it done locally for a 6 pack and some labor in a good friends shop
whats the pros?
whats the cons?
there is a guy here in redding that has 17lbs off his in a ram charger
by doing this will be able to spin 5000RPM (thats just a goal )

as far as motor internals.....

• Rods
• Pistions
• cam
• rings
• main studs
• rod studs
• P & P head
• 90lb springs
• push rods
• oil pump
• and pump gear

All aftermarket
I have 70% of that list in my shop
my only debate is to run steel pistons or not

Anything else that is a must?

Brice

 

you don't need a lightweight crank to turn 5k. i have all stock internals on my puller and constantly turn 5k off the line and 42-4500 down the track.

If you have the money a set of pistons ( lower compression), rings, a good cam, 24v lifters, pushrods, set of springs, and a billet freeze plug for the rear.

You should also rig up a coolent bypass and add a electric water pump ( helps from blowing all the other freeze plugs).

 

you dont have anything done to your internals at all and still spin 5k? Most ive heard is people would get there crank to balanced so it will spin if you blow on it and it will bed alot smoother running...

i would say that it all depends on how crazy your planning on going with this truck are you gonna build a 2.6 truck and run in the et class or try to get into the 12 second class...i think it will be hard to have the truck run drags and pull a sled and be competitive in both because there such different animals...thats just my opinion

 

other than studs and a fluidamper, yes I have all stock internals and can easily spin 5k no problem. The bottom end of these motors are very strong in stock form.

 

yeah i know there strong, did you run it at 5k at all before the fluid damper i betcha that helped a bunch in smoothing it out

 

U might as well get it balanced while its apart

 

before the damper I never went over 4k. i can tell you that up to 4k the fluidamper really helped smooth the whole motor out.

 

Getting the electric W/P and I have an opportunity to run low compression pistons but I would be one of 5 Ginny pigs
Instead for a bilit freeze plug I was going to make holders for all of them

ya it will be tough the whole chassis and suspension is going to be done by urbanmudbogger at UB Fab so I hope I can put it to the ground

so I need a damper.... Check

 

holders will work, but for the rear I really like the billet peice. It allows you to make a coolent bypass to help cool #5 and 6 pistons. A damper is a must with a roll pin kit if you choose fluidamper.

What class pulling are you building this truck for? with a 5,000 rpm max I would guess 2.6.

 

hmmmmm 2.6