I've got a 99 SD w/7.3. Seems by all the forums I've read today that I am beginning to have some CPS problems. Thing has been acting strange for quite some time now. So intermittant that it's been hard to trace. Acts up today and does fine for days/weeks kind of stuff. The stuff I've been reading today is a bit confusing though. The CPS's/CMP's seem to be coming in all different colors and from different scources. The black one has been replaced by the gray one but the gray one is no good and someone said the blue one is better than all the others. I realize that like many things in this world it all adds up to each persons oppinion but has the gray one been replaced by something new since it seems to be on it's second recall or WHAT'S NEXT? Thanks, Dale

P.S. Got the recall for the Speed Control Deactivation Switch. Mine is doing ok for now, will wait to see what goes with the CPS first.

 

The fix for this, for us atleast, has been going to an International dealer and getting the CPS for a DT466. Worked well on our friends 00, 02, and a few other trucks including a couple obs trucks. Ill see if i can scrounge up a part number.

 

from what little I know about this I think it be wise to carry one in the glovebox.........other than that very dependable

 

when it acts up does the tach still work when you crank the motor

 

I am a mechanic at an International dealership and I can shed a little light on the various sensors.

The blue sensor is the OEM installed sensor for all DT466E and DT530Es built prior to 2004, found only in medium duty International trucks, school buses, and some military equipment. The Blue sensor is notoriously flakey.

The black sensor is the OEM sensor used in all Ford Powerstroke and International T444E engines prior to 2003 and is not nearly as flakey as the blue sensor. The 444 has a smaller cam gear "window" plate than the 466/530 and runs at considerably higher RPMs. Before the redesigned sensors (see below) were available, we would install these sensors in place of the blue one to compensate for mildly excessive cam end play when the customer did not want to fix the root issue and go for a band-aid solution...

The grey sensors can be either an aftermarket part, or the newest revision, depending on where you bought it. The new grey sensors are cheaper and, so far, more reliable than the previous designs. If purchased from an International dealer, the sensor will come with a shim kit and instructions on how to properly install it. It is the current replacement part for both types of previous sensors. The OEM grey sensor is considerably different in shape than the aftermarket grey and OEM black/blue sensors.

Hopefully I didn't bore anyone...
David

 

Ok guys, thanks too all. That explains the CPS's better. I am still running the black oem with 152k. My problem carries some signs of CPS and at other times I'm not sure. When I go to start I connect a test light to the glow plug side of the relay. If the light stays on when I turn ign. to start..... the engine will start. At other times when I go to start the test light will go off and the engine will not start. I changed the GPR and it does the same thing. Tomorrow will have the batteries draw tested ...again. Maybe a starter problem? Just don't know. Am about to pull the rest of my hair out. BTW...the tack shows no movement wether the engine starts or not when cranking. Good info on CPS. Thanks, Dale

 

Ok, here's something you can try to verify whether or not the CMP is registering engine speed. Being a 99 model, it should have a "live" gauge cluster. The simplest way to tell is if the odometer is a green digital display.

If it is, try this: Insert key in ignition but leave it in the "off" position. Next, press and hold the trip meter reset button/peg. While holding it down, turn the ignition to the on/run position. The odometer should display "TEST". You can start and run the engine in this mode without worry. Once you have the cluster in this self test mode, there are numerous options available. Bulb test, gauge sweep, and input tests for each gauge in the cluster (and sometimes even inputs for gauges that your cluster does not have installed).

Just keep pressing the trip reset button until you get the the tachometer data feed. It likely won't be identified by anything, so you may have to figure out which one it is by scrolling through the options while the engine is running and see which value is bouncing up and down a bit in the 700 value range. Count how many button presses it takes to get from the "TEST" display to the tach data and remember it. Whenever it is acting up, go through the steps, get to tach data, and crank the engine. If the tach data reads "0000" while cranking, the CMP is the likely culprit.

Aside from that, I can scan a copy of one of our "Hard start/No start & Performace Diagnostic" sheets from work to start you down the proper troubleshooting path.

 

Do not get the Ford gray CPS unless you have too... There is a well documented issue with failed contrubrution tests with the new gray one.

The blue CPS retards timing somewhat as well, and there are lots of people that run them.

I bought every Black CPS I could get my hands on before they all went byby.

 

I have a 99 and I still have the old roller style odometer not the digital.

 

Yea Kyle, mine is too. Don't know when they went digital. Well, I guess we'll have to settle for whatever they give us for CPS. No matter what color. I still have the OEM black at 152k. Maybe it is still good and will stay that way for another 152k. This truck will start one day and not the other. I put a test light on the glow plug side of the GPR and if the light stays on when I hit the start the engine will start. If the light goes out when I hit the start the engine won't start. Don't know what the deal is with that. Doesn't make sense to me. Don't know of anything else that controls the relay. I have power to a the other connectors. Put in new relay, does the same. Wierd truck...

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Thanks again Undeadmechanic. Too bad I don't have the digital odo. Had the batteries and starter checked again today and all good. I guess I may need the hard start/ no start sheets to figure this one. I'm down to looking towards the PCM because it is the only thing that controls the glow plug relay as far as I can see right now. Don't get yourself in a jam with the trouble sheets. Not worth your job in these times man. Need a 1/2 inch wrench with a stick of dynomite for a handle. Or is that a 12mm? Thank to all who are trying to help.