Ladies’ & Gentlemen!!! Start Your Engines!!! Cuz I Can’t!!! ;-(

2005 6.0 PowerStroke <Stock> - 258,000 miles - Lariat CCLB 4x4

Short Current History: I recently finished up locating and repairing an HPO Leak (torn top injector o’ring on #7) and installing new Dummy Plugs, Stand-Pipes, HHC Oil Rail Nipple Cups and O’Rings, pulled all injectors – cleaned & replaced top injector O’Rings and injector body O’Rings, replaced the IPR, replaced valve cover gaskets, installed updated STC Fitting and HPOP O’Rings, cleaned and re-installed LPOP, pulled and cleaned EGR Valve (wasn’t too bad because I had cleaned it before air leaking and finding the #7 injector o’ring split), replaced the Glow Plug Harness, and all Glow Plugs - - - -

She (My Eleanor <Gone In 60 Seconds>) fired up and ran for a 1 ½ hour road trip test and the next morning went to start Her and it was a Crank No-Start with white smoke billowing out the tail pipe!!! ;-(

Doesn't look or smell like fuel or oil - a little sweet maple syrup maybe... No Coolant or Oil Loss - No coolant in oil either.... nothing dripping out onto the ground.....

I have the AE Proline VCI running the most current version they sent me two weeks ago. The AE was running on my laptop during the test drive and it looked and felt good. FICM, ICP, IPR, EOT, ECT, and Cylinder Contribution were all in favorable ranges.

I’m thinking it is the EGR Valve, EGR Cooler, or Oil Cooler, or Head Gasket (praying not)……

Any Pearls of Wisdom Out There???

Thank You In Advance - Kevin

 

Check to see if there is moisture under the EGR valve.

Also, check your oil level to see if it is gaining level.

Any codes?

The oil cooler rupturing will put coolant into the oil - that is a pretty obvious failure.

 

03-30-2018
Well, yesterday morning after the Smoke-A-Thon – on Wednesday afternoon I pulled the EGR Valve and it looked stuck and gummed up – cleaned it – Put it back in and tried to start her up but the Optima Yellow Top Batteries were at only 11v and while it tried to fire-up there just wasn’t enough juice left. Ran the AE Scan-Tool and got a real mess of codes I have never seen before – camshaft sensor & position, injectors, and a bunch of other ones.

Can draining the batteries down to a click make weird codes come out of nowhere???

I didn’t trust them and came home yesterday afternoon and finished charging both Optima’s at 4am today.

Went over at 7am this morning with the laptop and immediately checked for DTC’s (first cleared what I thought were erroneous DTC’s from the Optima Drain-Down Session – only a Glow Plug #1 code existed - after about a 10 second crank she lit fire and blew just a little white smoke out the tail-pipe. All the parameters looked good again (EOT & ECT diff was only 10 degrees) FICM at 48.5 – drove her around the storage yard and got the EOT up to 205 degrees (ECT was 193 degrees). Power Balance Test was perfect.

I then shut her down for 20 minutes and then restarted her and whalla!!!
Still had a #1 Glow Plug Code but everything on AE was good and she sounded like her old self!!!

Was home by 10am and went back at 5pm and did the same thing I did this morning (EOT & ECT diff was only 3 degrees) and it appears to have worked!!!

NO MORE SMOKE!!!

Going to drive her for a week and report back and let you know what happens………

Thanks for all the attention and help!!! You made me feel special!!!
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03-30-2018
Well, yesterday morning after the Smoke-A-Thon – on Wednesday afternoon I pulled the EGR Valve and it looked stuck and gummed up – cleaned it – Put it back in and tried to start her up but the Optima Yellow Top Batteries were at only 11v and while it tried to fire-up there just wasn’t enough juice left. Ran the AE Scan-Tool and got a real mess of codes I have never seen before – camshaft sensor & position, injectors, and a bunch of other ones.

Can draining the batteries down to a click make weird codes come out of nowhere???

I didn’t trust them and came home yesterday afternoon and finished charging both Optima’s at 4am today.

Went over at 7am this morning with the laptop and immediately checked for DTC’s (first cleared what I thought were erroneous DTC’s from the Optima Drain-Down Session – only a Glow Plug #1 code existed - after about a 10 second crank she lit fire and blew just a little white smoke out the tail-pipe. All the parameters looked good again (EOT & ECT diff was only 10 degrees) FICM at 49.5 – drover her around the storage yard and got the EOT up to 205 degrees (ECT was 193 degrees). Power Balance Test was perfect.

I then shut her down for 20 minutes and then restarted her and whalla!!!

Still had a #1 Glow Plug Code but everything on AE was good and she sounded like her old self!!!

Was home by 10am and went back at 5pm and did the same thing I did this morning (EOT & ECT diff was 3-degrees) and it appears to have worked!!!

NO MORE SMOKE!!!

Going to drive her for a week and report back and let you know what happens………

Thanks for all the attention and help!!! You made me feel special!!!

 

Running (or trying to) on bad batteries can ruin your Fuel Injector Control Module. That module controls the injectors. Sounds like injectors were the cause of the smoke, the FICM was the cause of the injectors, and the batteries were the cause of the FICM.

Who knows if the FICM was permanently damaged, but it is a possibility if it hasn't been upgraded. FICMrepair.com upgrades the module w/ components that are more likely to withstand low voltage.

I would still check the oil ............. Injectors dumping fuel can dilute the oil and lead to a ruined turbo (among other things).