96 6.5 no fuel to injectors
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
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From: ontario,canada
96 6.5 no fuel to injectors
Truck ran fine untill i parked it for about 2 weeks went to go start it cranked no fire. assumed no fuel due to low on fuel filled it up but went to bleed fuel system no fuel to injectors have fuel to filter and into ip nothing coming out. tried the ops bypass still no luck. Any ideas are greatly appreciated
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 103
From: Scugog Island ONT.
OPS bypass does not apply to 96 directly,if you want to run the lift pump to force it or bleed the filter you can apply 12v to the red wire with the insulator near the underhood fusebox coming out of it's loom under the master cylinder.
Have you tried another known to be working PMD?
Where is your current PMD mounted?
Have you had it scanned for trouble codes?
Did the LP work when tested?
Have you tried another known to be working PMD?
Where is your current PMD mounted?
Have you had it scanned for trouble codes?
Did the LP work when tested?
Thread Starter
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: ontario,canada
the pmd is located infront of fusebox and behind driver side battery and is aftermarket gonna try eliminating extension harness next see how it goes. i have a mac tools scanner no codes at all
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 103
From: Scugog Island ONT.
Easiest is to try another Known working PMD.
I advocate getting the PMD out of the engine bay to eliminate heatsoak after engine shutdown-the big temp swings is what kills PMD's and under/behind the frt bumper or on a rad support behind the grill keeps the PMD at ambient temps.
Remember that the heatsink can also absorb heat when underhood temps exceed the PMD temp and that heat gets put into the PMD-then in winter the temps swing the other way and fatigue internal connections causing failure.
A 6' extension harness is required to get it to a more constant temp location.
The PMD and heatsink also need to have thermal transfer paste/pad between them to conduct the heat evenly into the heatsink-torque the mounting screws to 20-25 inch pounds.
PMD's are known to fail in several ways-no start,no start hot and stalling.
No idea if it is for sure the cause till you try a known working PMD-could be a bad crank sensor or OS or even a sheared IP dive keyway,or FSO,fuel solenoid or even a bad ignition switch?
I advocate getting the PMD out of the engine bay to eliminate heatsoak after engine shutdown-the big temp swings is what kills PMD's and under/behind the frt bumper or on a rad support behind the grill keeps the PMD at ambient temps.
Remember that the heatsink can also absorb heat when underhood temps exceed the PMD temp and that heat gets put into the PMD-then in winter the temps swing the other way and fatigue internal connections causing failure.
A 6' extension harness is required to get it to a more constant temp location.
The PMD and heatsink also need to have thermal transfer paste/pad between them to conduct the heat evenly into the heatsink-torque the mounting screws to 20-25 inch pounds.
PMD's are known to fail in several ways-no start,no start hot and stalling.
No idea if it is for sure the cause till you try a known working PMD-could be a bad crank sensor or OS or even a sheared IP dive keyway,or FSO,fuel solenoid or even a bad ignition switch?
Last edited by racer55; Apr 27, 2014 at 10:34 PM.
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 322
Likes: 18
From: East north central Illinois
Another PMD symptom is run away engine. I had it with a new gray Standyne PMD
Easiest is to try another Known working PMD.
I advocate getting the PMD out of the engine bay to eliminate heatsoak after engine shutdown-the big temp swings is what kills PMD's and under/behind the frt bumper or on a rad support behind the grill keeps the PMD at ambient temps.
Remember that the heatsink can also absorb heat when underhood temps exceed the PMD temp and that heat gets put into the PMD-then in winter the temps swing the other way and fatigue internal connections causing failure.
A 6' extension harness is required to get it to a more constant temp location.
The PMD and heatsink also need to have thermal transfer paste/pad between them to conduct the heat evenly into the heatsink-torque the mounting screws to 20-25 inch pounds.
PMD's are known to fail in several ways-no start,no start hot and stalling.
No idea if it is for sure the cause till you try a known working PMD-could be a bad crank sensor or OS or even a sheared IP dive keyway,or FSO,fuel solenoid or even a bad ignition switch?
I advocate getting the PMD out of the engine bay to eliminate heatsoak after engine shutdown-the big temp swings is what kills PMD's and under/behind the frt bumper or on a rad support behind the grill keeps the PMD at ambient temps.
Remember that the heatsink can also absorb heat when underhood temps exceed the PMD temp and that heat gets put into the PMD-then in winter the temps swing the other way and fatigue internal connections causing failure.
A 6' extension harness is required to get it to a more constant temp location.
The PMD and heatsink also need to have thermal transfer paste/pad between them to conduct the heat evenly into the heatsink-torque the mounting screws to 20-25 inch pounds.
PMD's are known to fail in several ways-no start,no start hot and stalling.
No idea if it is for sure the cause till you try a known working PMD-could be a bad crank sensor or OS or even a sheared IP dive keyway,or FSO,fuel solenoid or even a bad ignition switch?
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