that sounds pretty good, i'd still take it down alittle lower micron with your filter to be safe.... your fuel filter might last longer... thats a pretty strong mix with unleaded.. might try kero, thins really good and helps settle sediment faster. from what i've read gas lowers the cetane rating especially the higher octane you go. but if your not having any troubles then it must be working!!!!

 

I been running W_O in both my trucks at about a 60-1 ratio for between 3-4 years now. I use it as a fuel additive, not fuel. The most important filter is a 2mic filter thats been in service on the truck for over a year. That's the one that really gets the small stuff before your engine sees it. My fuel filters run a 3 year cycle.

 

Im still learning and gathering as much info that I can get. I feel safe with a 50/50 mix of WMO to #2. I have read on some other fourms that most people are running W85. 85% oil and 15% RUG. I just haven't worked up to that, I like the idea of using K1 for a thinner. I just picked up 60 gallons of ATF that I'm still figuring out what to cut it with. It's alot thinner then WMO to begin with so I was thinking K1 or #2 for that.

 

I would try kero, i'm having good luck with it! you could also mix alittle WMO in with it too. If your heating it you could run that ATF straight no problem. if you went 75% ATF and 25% WMO and throw in 5 gallons of kero per 50 gallons it should be close to diesel for viscosity

 

I'm heating it so I can centrifuge it. I had about 25 gallons of WMO left in my processing tank that was already cleaned, so I took you advice and did 2.5 gallons of K1 and about 5 gallons of #2. I'm going to run the ATF through my system this weekend and preclean it. I don't like putting my thinner in while I heat it because I don't want it to evaporate out before I use it. Usually when I get to within a day of needing to fuel again I will add my thinner and recirc the oil in my process tank to mix it. Im filling up tonight so I will post back about how it runs. On a side note, I've read a couple forum post about people mixing RC car fuel. At a ratio of 1.5 oz per gallon. Once Im a little more comfortable with my WMO set up I will try this and post my results

 

RC fuel sounds interesting.... I found a source of mineral oil but not sure as to how it burns? As far as the thiners, i would def add the K1 in while ur processing, not omy does it thin and help speed the process of cleaning the oil and settling out the junk. take some K1 and put in a small container and put alittle coolant/dirt, ect... and see how fast it settles to the bottom and stays there. as long as you dont super heat it it shouldnt evaporate.

Second note, I got my common rail up and running on %75 WMO/ATF two tank system
running good so far

 

I installed rebuilt injectors in my 6.2 back in the fall and ran about 40 gallons of ~80/20 WMO/RUG. I have been doing some other work on the truck and have not driven it much. I made myself a pop tester and checked the injectors last week, as it has had a rough idle and miss. I do not remember exactly how it ran right after the injectors were installed. Anyway, one was definitely bad-- started peeing at ~1500, while all 7 others were a fairly nice spray at about 1900. However, all of them had the hole that is about 3/16 inch in the end almost completely carboned up with just a pinhole open. What is the best way to clean them first, and second, I expected them to carbon up, but maybe in 10K miles or so, not about 600. I am wondering about trying 80/20 and then mixing that with D2 at maybe 60/40 or so. (40%D2). Any suggestions or comments. I am going to try to make a mix with part WATF,but it is somewhat harder to come by than WMO right now, and I have a bunch of WMO that I need to use up. The truck is a N/A 6.2 so pulling the injectors out and cleaning them is not that big a deal, and I wouldn't mind doing so every 4-5K, considering the fuel savings, but having them carbon up before even using up using one full tank is a bit much.

 

Update to my 08/2011 post. After much experimenting......no more gas/RUG. I didn't like the way the truck ran on a RUG/WMO mix. Now my process uses either 5-8 gallons of D2 or K1. That goes into a 55 gallon drum then I run my used oil through a 10 micron filter and fill the drum. This makes the mix thin enough to centrifuge without using heat. I had some smoke issues this summer while running RUG mix. I found that when I was doing more city driving, and not using enough of the go pedal it would smoke like a freight train. I was out driving along a long straight country road, and just so happen to come up behind Ms. Daisy, when the traffic was clear I passed her going from about 25mph-65mph ( speed limit was 55) lots of smoke, lots of heat, egts were up around 1200*. After that...no more smoke. Now during the winter I only run about 5 gallons of homebrew at a time. Fill my tank up, drive about 100-120 miles then add my mix. This is just my experience, like they say on infomercials, you results my vary.

 

Are you running a 24valve Cummins? I would never run anyting but the best D2 I couild buy if I had one of those. I hear they are fantastic as to power and economy, but when it breaks----!! I recently put about 15 gal of 80/20 in another 6.2 I have and it smoked so bad I hated to drive, or even start, it. It had the power of a 4 cylinder-maybe. But it was that way before also. I got a set of used injectors off EBay for $15 including shipping.Put them in and the smoke pretty much went away and power increased a lot. The tips of the injectors I took out were nearly carboned completely over. I pop tested one or two and as I recall the pressure was ok and they didnt pee. The first truck I was talking about still has a lope at idle and a miss, after injectors, pump and timing chain. There is a tick/click that sound like it is coming from the top on the drivers side, but we are going to make sure with a stethascope, then pull the valve cover if that is indeed where it is coming from. I had them off not long ago-between the IP/injector replacement and the timing chain. I looked at the rocker arms. pushrods etc. but I guess not close enough. I'll give it another compression test also. Last Aug I started out on a trip in it runiing on 50/50 WMOandWATF/D2-- went about 300 miles running great. Stopped and had lunch, looked everything over and took off. Went about another hour and the trans started acting up. I was able to turn around and make it home at about 50mph and 3500rpm. It seemed to start the miss and also a vibration then. I was blaming the vibration on the trans, but the torque converter was replaced and the trans gone through several times and the vibration at higher rpm is still there. I'm thinking maybe a valve spring?? Opinion/suggestions welcome.If and when I get this thing running right I don't think I'm going to try anymore straight 80/20 in it. I am curious though, about how quickly carbon builds up on the injector tips on straight D2. Maybe the mix didnt carbon them up any or much faster than normal. I guess I'll find out in due time/

 

I'm really looking forward to pulling the head off one of my trucks one of these days for whatever reason just to see if the water/meth keeps the combustion chambers as clean as I believe it does.

But OTOH, nothing will overcome an excessive amount of crap being run through there and not completely burned, either.