JP= Jet propellant

it's made for jet engines and their needs- not for rotary engines.

military engines run with it because its easier to transport, to store and to distribute only one fluid.
That does not mean they are made for that.

 

That is the exact reason. They recently in the last few years started using diesel fuel more often also.

 

i see never really knew what the jp stood for until i looked it up last night. we never had any problems with it.

 

I called our tech officer today:

"JP8 is used in military vehicles of older ages(IDI or multi fuel engines with lower compression).
It causes problems with common rail Diesels because cetane number is not specified (lower than 40) and can vary. The same goes for lubrication abilities.
Ignition delay and and variations in lubrication are common causes for failure."

Due to that reason the use of JP is not allowed for the new truck(CR) generation.

 

I know we burn up a lot of injector pumps on our diesel pick ups and equipment running jp8. even our older 6.5 and 6.2 GM trucks.

 

I was asking this question because I have access to some free JP-8 (drained from aircraft to facilitate repairs inside the fuel tank), and was wondering about using it as an additive to help to lower the high cloud point of B100. I had no plans of running it straight or even mixed with #2 ULSD due to lubricity issues with my VP44. However, I don't think running it as an additive in B100 will cause more damage than running a 50/50 blend of #1 and #2 (as is common in cold places in the winter).

I was thinking about experimenting with a couple of jars in the freezer with thermometers in them. Each jar would have a different mix ratio of B100 and JP8 and I could monitor the cloud temperature. I think it should lower the cloud point, but how much? I don't think I'm willing to risk my VP44 just to be able to run B100 longer into the winter, so the ratios would have extremely small quantities of JP-8 in them. Also, I could compare some common over the counter fuel additives (that obviously, no one should run straight) in their recommended % and see which additive works best with B100. The end result is that some things will work better than others and it probably won't mirror the same results you'd get if you used #2 ULSD instead of B100 as the base fuel. I don't know of any studies like this done on Bio Diesel. I guess somebody has to go first?

 

The access to waste JP is invitingly.
The question is: is worth to risk an major IP pump replacement? If you have an old rabbit Diesel I would give it a try
But:
Fact is that JP is Injection pump killer and it causes trouble. The military don't care- they replace the complete engine and go on.
Can you do that, too? I bet: no you can't.

If I have to save my pennys on fuel and to seek for alternatives- something is going wrong in my financial setup.

It is your engine- nobody will tell you: Do it! or Don't do it!
Even Bosch does still not allow the use of B100 in their pumps

 

He's not talking about running straight JP8, just using a small dosage as an additive.

 

I did recognize that
and telling him: yes, you can- is risky. Will you be responsible, if damage occurs?
I bet, you won't.
That does not include any offense!

additives have an advantage, they work in small doses.
So does work any dillution of your fuel- I'm not a chemist- so I don't have background knowledge.
But I know that even small parts of diluted fuel can and will be harmful.
And knowing that even Bosch steps back from fuels others than intended for use doesn't make it better.

Changing fluid viscosity with adding an addditive may be a wrong an unnecessary way.

Did any of you thought about preheating the fuel to improve flow abilities?
This is commonly done in europe with the use of an engine heater. I'm not talking about those whimpy 150 to 300 watt electric fuel heaters- no, I'm talking about 18.000 BTU or 5000watts coolant heaters.

This is used very often to preheat the coolant , the engine and the B100, or veggie oil.
Heat exchangers bring the B100 to a thin, good flowing fluid, very easy to pump and to inject.
Once heated the coolant is warm enough to transfer enough heat to keep the process going the heater can be switched off.
This would be the way to go.
Even a two tank solution with flushing the lines with pure Diesel at the end of a trip to insure the next proper starting of the engine with pure Diesel and switching to B100 once the engine is warmed up again is very commonly done over here.
people swear onto it, because it gurantees proper starting even under cold outside conditions.

Why using a "cheap" solution, if it could destroy your pump?
A mechanical safe solution is better than experimenting with many "if's" and "might work", don't you think?

 

I think people come here to get advice on lots of things, and by your own admission you should not be giving it on this subject.

The correct expert field for this area would be a tribologist, not chemist, neither of which you obviously are.