Homebrew Seafoam
#41
10-31-2010, 08:32 AM
Not sure why anyone would even consider subsituting the mineral oil with desiel, acetone, ATF or anything else. The beauty of seafoam is you can stick it anywhere, and it works.
The reason I originally started my invesigation (and found this thread) was because I had read somewhere not to use ATF to clean the carbon from your intake/engine on a TBI. I forget the reason. Way, way back we used to use ATF all the time down the carb.
Another thing I'll throw in is that seafoam surely uses reagent grade isopropanol. If your using the horrible store bought %91 consider that you are adding %9 water!!! Exactly what you dont want in your crankcase, or fuel tank
Naptha is a great lightweight solvent, and burns well, so I cannot understand why to replace it with anything.
mineral oil will burn in a combustion chamber, and will not mess up a fuel system. To use 2 cycle oil, ATF, or acetone as a substitute, surely you would not get desireable results.
Not sure what all the bruhaha is about viscosity. When added in the recommended amounts on the seafoam label, I dont think slight differences in viscosity have any bearing, on say the crankcase oil, or a fuel systems ability to pass the liquid. If there was another reason to study the viscosity in replicating seafoam, enlighten me.
Colt
The reason I originally started my invesigation (and found this thread) was because I had read somewhere not to use ATF to clean the carbon from your intake/engine on a TBI. I forget the reason. Way, way back we used to use ATF all the time down the carb.
Another thing I'll throw in is that seafoam surely uses reagent grade isopropanol. If your using the horrible store bought %91 consider that you are adding %9 water!!! Exactly what you dont want in your crankcase, or fuel tank
Naptha is a great lightweight solvent, and burns well, so I cannot understand why to replace it with anything.
mineral oil will burn in a combustion chamber, and will not mess up a fuel system. To use 2 cycle oil, ATF, or acetone as a substitute, surely you would not get desireable results.
Not sure what all the bruhaha is about viscosity. When added in the recommended amounts on the seafoam label, I dont think slight differences in viscosity have any bearing, on say the crankcase oil, or a fuel systems ability to pass the liquid. If there was another reason to study the viscosity in replicating seafoam, enlighten me.
Colt
#42
10-31-2010, 08:22 PM
Banned
Not sure why you would use anything in the first place.
If you buy quality diesel from well ranked high-volume stations (truck stops) you won't have any problems to worry about.
If you buy cheap diesel from the corner quickie mart you'll have water, stale fuel and low grade additives clogging up your system.
If you want to clean out your system buy a tank of B20 (Or B50-B100 for non-CR engines) and it will scrub the entire fuel system instead of just your pump and injectors.
You know the saying, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
If you buy quality diesel from well ranked high-volume stations (truck stops) you won't have any problems to worry about.
If you buy cheap diesel from the corner quickie mart you'll have water, stale fuel and low grade additives clogging up your system.
If you want to clean out your system buy a tank of B20 (Or B50-B100 for non-CR engines) and it will scrub the entire fuel system instead of just your pump and injectors.
You know the saying, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
