A year and a half ago I bought a PA Biodiesel 55gpm centrifuge for only $135. I like the centrifuge and it pulls out an amazing amount of sediment out of a WMO blend that has settled for 2 weeks and been filtered down to 1-micron.

 

so what are you using for your 1 micron filter it looks like if there is a filter element for a heated davco 382 like what they put on big trucks it would be perfect for preparing the oil to go thru the centrifuge is there such a cartridge for that housing what are you using?

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reason I ask is ive been dumping leftover oil into my truck and it hasn't seemed to phase it at all im guessing if I could get waste oil clean enough I wouldn't have to mix it with much to get it to run in my truck I think the biggest hurdle is getting it clean enough to where it wont plug the **** out of my fuel filter like my first experience with tranny fluid that wasn't as clean as I thought it was brand new **** doesn't seem to phase it. so im guessing its all about getting it clean enough to get through the fuel filter on the engine and not having any junk that's gonna hurt my pump or injectors

 

The first stage in my WMO processing is simply to blend it with gasoline at 20%, then leave it sit in the shade for a week to a month. This eliminates most of the sediments. I pour off the top the good thin WMO blend, and if I can see through the fluid stream as I am pouring, then I know I got some good WMO. I then filter it with a 20" long 1-micron sock filter. Then it goes through the centrifuge. If I settle it long enough, then I find the centrifuge bowl not over-full. If it is over full, then I run it through the centrifuge another time.

I never put any waste oil straight into my fuel tank without first moving it through the above process, no matter how clean it looks.

 

Beyond Diesel. I have a whole filter process stain coming from Martin Paine. I am also looking to get a PA Centrifuge, but the it is a little out of m Budget at almost $1200, How were you able to purchase it at $125.

 

Presumably you will be making black diesel by blending gasoline with WMO. If so, then pleated cellulose filters for whole house canisters will not work with the gasoline, if that is the filtering system that you have ordered. Bag filters are the way to go in that case.

I bought PA Biodiesel's cheapest centrifuge about 2 years ago, and it was only $125 at the time. Yes they have more expensive ones, but I saw no reason to spend more on a centrifuge.

More resent reports from people burning WMO blends, is apparently WMO cokes injectors on diesel engines without a turbo, verses next to none with a turbo.

 

yes I have Bag filters too. I have a four step filtering system in place lost one is centrifuge. it will insure the cleanest process WMO for me to blend with Diesel.

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my 1990 W250 cumin diesel should run great with this. Have you heard any complants to running on this year Cummins

 

I essentially have possibly a more than 4 step process for cleaning waste oil and turning them into diesel fuel.
1) I start by running all my waste oils through a standard kitchen screen and avoid pouring any sediments at the bottom of the container. The bottom 10% of any settling container never gets poured.
2) I then blend gasoline with whatever waste oil I am using, and leaving it to settle for one week.
3) After a week of settling I then pour off the thin, translucent liquid off the top, leaving behind anything that is thick or dark, into a settling/processing tank.
4) It settles another day or 2 in the settling/processing tank, then I drain off any sediments.
5) After draining the sediments from the processing tank, I then use compressed air to push my waste oil blend through a 4 stage filtering system down to 1-micron.

My filtering system is: 3 y-trap strainers with 3 progressively finer stages of screens in them, starting at 30-mesh, then 80 mesh, then 125 mesh, then the blend goes through a 20" long 1-micron bag filter.

I use the compressed air method to push my waste oil blends through my filter manifold because the metod disturbs the waste oil blend the least while transporting it through the filters. Not disturbing the blend allows any sediments that are entrained in the blend to move along the bottom of the pipe and get lodged into the filters and traps along the way.

I normally avoid WMO because even after the above 5-step/10 stage filtering process the WMO still comes out black and cokes my injectors. I did purchase a centrifuge to improve my WMO blends, and the centrifuge definitely pulled significant amounts of particulate out after the above 10-stage process, so there are significant amounts of sub-micron particles in WMO, which only a centrifuge can remove; but it still came out black and it stilled coked my injectors.

 

I have turbo on that cummins, and am going to run 40% TO 60% WMO to Diesel. every thing I reading and learning ABOUT ON THIS IS ON POINT

 

Most people who I have read reports from who successful blend waste oils into diesel fuel do not blend with diesel fuel. They blend with gasoline.

The reason why gasoline is used as a waste oil blending agent for making diesel fuel is because gasoline is about 1/4 as dense/viscous (thinner) than diesel fuel, and waste oils can be about 10-20 times as dense/viscous (thicker) than diesel; therefore the waste oil thickens the gasoline to approach the viscosity and specific gravity of diesel fuel.

Whereas, if diesel fuel were used as the thinning agent, at say 50% as you are proposing, then your waste oil/diesel blend is likely to be at least 5-10 times as dense/viscous as diesel fuel.

Nonetheless, people have been successfully turning waste oils into diesel fuel for more than a decade, and regardless of how they do it, their end product tends to be about 2 times as viscous as normal diesel fuel. So, we know that we can get away with a 2x thicker product, but 4x is going to lead to injector coking, ring gumming, etc.

I find that waste oils blended at 80% to gasoline at 20% runs fine on my diesel engine. That 80/20 blend tends to result in a diesel fuel that is about 2x as thick/dense as diesel fuel. However, I know of a lot of people who find that blend ratio works for their diesel engine.

If you want a waste oil/gasoline blend that is as dense/thick as diesel fuel, then it would be 50% waste oil to 50% gasoline; however, more than 30% gasoline in a diesel fuel blend tends to have too much alcohol in it as an octane enhancer, which tends to swell some seals in some diesel injector pumps.

 

I run W85, 100% WMO and all sorts of used gear oils and transmission fluids in my Cummins most of the year and have had zero problems. I don't centrifuge it. I usually just add 13% RUG, let it settle, drain off the crap that falls to the bottom, pump it through a couple of whole house filters (5 micron into 1 micron) into a holding barrel and straight into the truck. Thousands of miles later, no clogged filters, no lift pump failures. Just resealed the 2nd gen and pulled the injectors; they looked great.

This is my setup: 1. Put it in the tank with some gasoline, let settle and crack the valve at the bottom until it runs black (once the 5 gallon bucket fills with unusable crap, I dispose of it at the local parts store for free).


2. Plug in the Harbor Freight 60gph pump and let it push the blend through the 2 house filters (5 micron, then 1 micron; they last a LONG time. When they slow down, I back flush them back into the settling barrel).


3. Into the last barrel it goes where it sits a little while. If I crack the valve at the bottom and the oil comes out clean and dry, it goes straight into the truck.