904cc Yanmar Injection Pump Tuning - Page 2 - Diesel Bombers

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904cc Yanmar Injection Pump Tuning

  #11  
Old 12-28-2010, 11:24 AM
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Bump...
 
  #12  
Old 01-09-2011, 04:33 PM
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Nothing on a Yanmar?
 
  #13  
Old 02-03-2011, 02:02 PM
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Ok, reading this post has just about talked me out of buying one of these.
I emailed you, but thought I would ask hear as others that read this may want to know.

HOW did you shear the rear shaft and blow the rear diff and bend the front shaft?
Jumping 10 trucks? All broke at one time? all broke at different times? Is this thing built that badly? Inquiring minds want to know.
 

Last edited by Robbin; 02-03-2011 at 02:03 PM. Reason: spelling
  #14  
Old 02-03-2011, 05:10 PM
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Robbie, dont misunderstand me... I love this Ranger. It has far out performed when me and everyone around expected it to fail. I push this thing FAR past what it was designed for. BUT thats because while I have the factory warranty I am going to use it and abuse it. I have pulled full blown mud trucks on 2.5tons out of some serious holes with the Ranger. As well as pulled a broken down bronco on 40" bogger about 2miles through sugar sand. I've loaded it with 6 people and plowed through some deep trenches of mud with it. And never had a problem. It was just my shear stupidity when i broke the axle. I was climbing up the side of a tree with it locked in 4x4 and the front tires slipped. I slid down the tree and the front bumper got caught in a knot sticking out of the side of the tree. I then tryed to climb back up the tree and off of it. BUT my right rear tire started digging and then started hopping. And we all know that when you start getting traction hop that things break. And when that went it tore up the diff. So it wasnt so much failure on Polaris's part as much as it was me just beating the hell out of it. PLUS the ranger stock axles have never been anything to brag about. Im planning to run new Catvos axles when my warranty is up anyways. The front axle bent when I was snatching on a jeep. I didnt know the ****** rope was 60' long and with a 30' run at it I put a real hurtin on the ranger when I ran outta rope. So to the best of my knowledge thats when the front axle bent. But it took a little while to notice it and by that time the CV had already been destroyed.

The ONLY gripe I have about the ranger is the poor radiator design. As soon as it gets muddy you have nothing but over heating problems. Now that may just be a problem down here in FL with this shitty Peet Muck that we have. But I am always having over heating problems because of it. I will probably relocate the radiator as well when I do the turbo.
 
  #15  
Old 02-03-2011, 05:33 PM
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Default Thanks for the update on the broken parts

You are far tougher on it then I would ever be. I just want a side by side my wife and i can ride togeather when working on our little farm. The bed is perfect for hauling stuff around our 80 acres. Going diesel because I have diesel and if bad stuff ever happens, I'll have 100 gallons to run my tractor and polaris on.
I don't think I'd ever try to pull a vehicle out with it.

I'm back to buying one, should have one in a month or so.

thanks a bunch for the update. I'll keep checking for your posts. I want to follow your progress, thou I can't imagine that I would ever put a turbo on it.

Robbin
 
  #16  
Old 02-03-2011, 08:32 PM
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Yea you will not be disappointed. The diesel is nice cuz I swear by diesel and the ranger by far is the most versatile machine. So it works out great. But like you said, I am far tougher on it then im sure most people are. Thats why I am turboing it. I want a lil more giddy up and want it to black smoke like a diesel. I'll keep you posted as things change.
 
  #17  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:59 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but I happened to stumble across it and couldn't help responding.

This is a 3TNM72. 3 cylinders, 72mm bore. They're a durable little motor, and quiet as can be for a mechanical diesel. The thing to keep in mind with this motor is it's an IDI engine, so it's fueling and breathing capabilities are somewhat limited when compared to its DI cousins.

There's at least one company out there that offers a turbo kit for this engine. Its a fairly complete kit from what I've seen (reading through the installation instructions anyway).

If you don't want to spend that kind of money, a worthwhile upgrade is an EGT gauge.... Cause one can turn the fuel up pretty easy on these little motors.

If there's any interest in learning how to tweak a little, let me know and we'll keep the thread going.
 
  #18  
Old 07-31-2012, 12:08 AM
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I'm getting the ppe kit installed on mine
 
  #19  
Old 12-21-2012, 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by WoodyRigged View Post
I have recently purchased a 2011 Polaris Ranger with the 904cc Yanmar Diesel. I am planning to turbo this motor for a lil more performance and giddy-up. I have already acquired the turbo but my problem is tuning the fuel side. The pump looks very similar to a P-pump but does not offer similar adjustments for more fuel. So my question is can I just tune the pump? Or am I going to need to have my injectors honed and hope that solves the fuel issue?

Any information on this motor is appreciated.
Page 7 https://www.pacificp.com/pdf/PolarisRangerTurbo_v10.pdf
 
  #20  
Old 09-10-2015, 04:30 PM
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Default Yanmar MC pump

I hate to bump a 3 year old thread, but it's still on the first page so here goes.

I have a Polaris Ranger diesel and a Polaris Brutus, both with the Yanmar 3TNM72 Minimax engine. I've put an IHI RHF3 turbo on the Brutus and turned up the fuel following the instructions for the PPE Ranger turbo kit, by turning the Rated Fuel Delivery screw out 1.25 turns. I'm making 6-7 psi boost and seeing 850 degrees max EGT at turbine inlet. I'm not sure it's making as much power as it could. I'm currently running 1.5 turns out on the screw. If I go 2 turns out I get lots of black smoke and no increase in EGT. Why am I seeing black smoke but not higher EGT? Should I be shooting for ~1200 EGT for maximum safe power?

I have the Yanmar service manual for the engine, it doesn't have any info on fuel adjustments but it does say it's an MC pump. I have a manual for the MP pump which looks similar. It talks about a Torque Fuel Delivery adjustment which is an integral part of the Rated Fuel Delivery screw. Can anyone explain exactly what this adjustment does and how it differs from the Rated Fuel Delivery adjustment? The manual shows how to set them up on a test bench, but no explanation of the actual functions.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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