Auxiliary Idle Controller
AIC MOD
Ok to start off with you will have to go to Radio Shack or similar store and get some parts.

Single Pole Single Throw Switch. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
5K Linear Taper Potentiometer. Radio Shack pt# 271-1714
Linear PART # for the 2K is Radio Shack pt# 900-8587
2 Single Pole Double Throw Auto Relays Radio Shack pt# 900-2391
2 Wiring Harness Plugs Radio Shack pt# 900-2396
18 Gauge Wire
SOLDER
Wire Ties
Butt Connectors
Soldering Gun
Safety Glasses
STEP 1 Switches
Find a power source that is with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays
From the other side coil terminals on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire. (There is only one wire on the parking brake.)
STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)
As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange with and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.) Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays. The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don’t need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.
STEP 3 The other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.) Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side of the other relay. Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) of the relay and go to the left terminal on the POT. Now take a wire from the center terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire. Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy

10k Resistor Mod
A 10k ohm resistor will raise the injection oil pressure approximately 200 psi. Increased injection pressure will deliver more fuel and will deliver more fuel sooner. This increase in fuel deliver and advance will yield higher combustion temperature but your exhaust gas temperature will remain almost steady. Such an efficient burn has it's down side. It will cause an idle rougher than stock. It may also cause the production of nitrous oxides. Thermal efficiency is a function of the high(absolute)temperature divided by low(absolute)temperature. In other words, the higher the peak combustion temperature in comparison to the exhaust temperature the more efficient is your engine.

Parts Needed
digital volt ohm meter
10k ohm resistor (1/2 or 1 watt)
2 fine copper wires 4" length
black tape
Procedure
1 Solder wire on resistor
2 Identify injection pressure sensor (on front of driver side cylinder head)
3 Test for voltage with key on and engine off

IPS has 3 connections:
+4.97V
+0.003V
+Output
Turn key off!
Connect resistor between output and 0.003V (do not cut any factory wires)
Slide fine wires into plug and reassemble
Cover bare wires with tape

I used a 1 watt .05 rated 10K resister. Soldered a 3" piece of wire on each side of the resister slide heat shrink over the entire part of the resister and about 1" of wire. Leave about 1" of the wire soldered on inside the heat shrink and seal each end to be sure with electrical tape. Then I stripped the wire back 1" I pulled out of the wire 5 strands and cut the rest away. Looking at the connector it looks like 2 eyes and a mouth put 1 wire in the right eye and the other in the mouth Blue/stripe and grey/stripe wire. I put the plug back into the ICP about 20 time until the check engine light did not come back on. If the check engine light comes back on you still have a open circuit. Just push it into there harder or pull it a part and put in again until no Check Engine Light comes on. It will if your work if you keep putting it in the plug and it seats.

PSD Injection timing can be changed EOT Mod
The PCM uses the EOT to help determine the injection timing. Cold oil has more advanced timing. Warm oil has less advanced timing. There are several reasons Ford changes the timing as the oil warms-up. In the past some modifications were tried on the EOT sensor. Most results were not successful. My early experiments resulted in the vehicle stalling at a red light with a woman driver. But this modification is different. In the past the sensor was replaced with a fixed resistor. There was no feedback from the sensor. The engine could be made to run well at only one oil temperature. The changes in engine oil temperature needed to be sensed by the PCM. The new method had to wait for the warranty to expire on the test vehicle. The new method requires cutting a wire and splicing in a resistor. The EOT sensor is connected with two wires. Either wire can be cut and spliced with a resistor. The values that have been tried are: (0.5k 1k 1.5k and 4.1k). The 4.1k ohm has the most effect on advancing injection timing. When this resistor is wired in series with the EOT, the PCM is fooled into thinking that the engine oil temperature is lower than actual. Lower engine oil temperature causes an advance in timing. The advance in timing seems to be good for efficiency. Power is better above 1500rpm. The turbo seems to have a bit more lag and it is now possible to run more injection oil pressure. In general, new engines are not adjusted for peak power or efficiency. Part of the specifications requires lowering the peak combustion temperature. This is often accomplished by retarding the injection timing when the engine is at the torque peak (2000rpm). An advance (over stock timing) at this rpm is good for both power and efficiency. The test hill showed a 3mph increase in speed. The increase in turbo lag seems to be caused by reduced heat in the exhaust manifold. Turbochargers work on waste heat in the exhaust gasses. Less waste heat is good for efficiency and this modification leaves less heat in the exhaust to run the turbo on the test vehicle. One last comment, when the injection oil pressure is increased, the injectors are harder to open. Harder to open injectors will take longer to open. In the past, this effect has limited the injection oil pressure to about 3000psi on the test vehicle. Some people also reported that their engine towed better at higher rpm without an increase in injection oil pressure (without a 10k resistor). The advanced timing of this modification has allowed the injection oil pressure to be increased on the test vehicle. Haven't had time to gauge the increase but the injectors are working better at high rpm and load.
this came from another site. Logan.

 

Idle conrtoll mod is really worth it, I loved it when I had it on my truck.

The 10k mod, if your running a chip/programmer, they already do this and the only difference you will notice is a rough idle and a sensitive pedal.

The EOT mod is best left for manuals. When you fool the truck into thinking its cold to get that nice timing advance, on autos it keeps the torque converter unlocked all the time. No one likes slippage, I'm sure it could be solved with a torque converter lock up switch but then you would have to play with that everytime you take off, slow down or when your trans wants to shift gears.


Ryan

 

I have just changed the whole park brake control on my 2001 Dodge 2500 4X4. It is a 5 speed standard, now when I apply the park brake the truck idles up to around 1500. I tried tying a switch into the system and controling the high idle manually but the daytime running lights and the indicator lights are tyd in as well. I'm thinkin that I might have to tie into the indicator lights and as well as the High idle. What makes it idle up? is that a solenoid, or a relay. I should take electricity more serious.