High performance 140v IDM? Worthwhile?
#11
Early IDM swap
According to the fella at powerstrokehelp (on youtube) the late model 220v IDM's will direct swap into the early trucks that use the 100v units. Of course I don't see how injectors made for the lower voltage will go undamaged by doubling the voltage but I don't know all the specifics. Anyway, supposedly this swap will produce the crisper throttle response and such that you fellas are talking about. If that's true it sure would be cool.
Jeff
Jeff
Yes I can solder but I doubt I'd risk ruining anything.
I've read online that a 140v IDM can give 30-40hp and like 50-60lbs of tq... I've even come across a dyno with a verified like 30 or 40lbs of tq to the WHEELS using a better IDM.
Joe- I was thinking about the Swamps unit or the Beans unit. Like I said above, there are dynos out proving higher hp/tq using a better IDM tho
I've read online that a 140v IDM can give 30-40hp and like 50-60lbs of tq... I've even come across a dyno with a verified like 30 or 40lbs of tq to the WHEELS using a better IDM.
Joe- I was thinking about the Swamps unit or the Beans unit. Like I said above, there are dynos out proving higher hp/tq using a better IDM tho
#12
According to the fella at powerstrokehelp (on youtube) the late model 220v IDM's will direct swap into the early trucks that use the 100v units. Of course I don't see how injectors made for the lower voltage will go undamaged by doubling the voltage but I don't know all the specifics. Anyway, supposedly this swap will produce the crisper throttle response and such that you fellas are talking about. If that's true it sure would be cool.
Jeff
Jeff
#13
#16
#17
That's not an answer Joe. That is an open ended accusation without any explanation.
It sounds like you are implying that there is something wrong with changing the oil in the HPOP reservoir. The old adage that you can never change the oil too often applies to that reservoir just as it does to the oil pan. Apparently he has come across situations where that oil isn't getting circulated, and filtered, the way it is supposed to be and in turn it turns nasty and become distructive, like all oil does when it is not changed periodically. So he gave the advise to change it and "one" suggestion of how to accomplish it. If that oil is getting circulated properly in your engine, you're not going to harm anything by manually changing it. So what is your complaint about that video?
Now in fairness, I too have recognized something he said that is inconsistent.
He has a three video set on performance enhancements where he suggests taking the hollow end cap bolt, in the end of the fuel rail, in each head and cross drill one of the 1/8" holes to 1/4" and it will allow more fuel volume. I question the benefit of doing that because that bolt has two 1/8" holes drilled in it at 90 degrees to one another. The outlet of the bolt (or orifice) is 1/4" inch. My observation is that two 1/8" holes equal 1/4" and even if you could drill one out to 5/16" it is still feeding into a 1/4" orifice, therefore making the procedure redundant. But I am also willing to admit that perhaps I am simply missing something in the mix here that he understands and I do not.
Other than that I have no qualms with his teachings. A lot of sound advice if you ask me and I have many years of experience in the automotive industry making repairs of drivetrain components. I sought out help with my powerstroke because I had no experience with diesels and was having issues with my engine. Through the videos Bill puts out and the manual I purchased from turbodiesel.com, I have solved all problems except one. My fuel mileage is inconsistent. it jumps every tank full, anywhere from 15 to 21mpg with no rhyme or reason.
It sounds like you are implying that there is something wrong with changing the oil in the HPOP reservoir. The old adage that you can never change the oil too often applies to that reservoir just as it does to the oil pan. Apparently he has come across situations where that oil isn't getting circulated, and filtered, the way it is supposed to be and in turn it turns nasty and become distructive, like all oil does when it is not changed periodically. So he gave the advise to change it and "one" suggestion of how to accomplish it. If that oil is getting circulated properly in your engine, you're not going to harm anything by manually changing it. So what is your complaint about that video?
Now in fairness, I too have recognized something he said that is inconsistent.
He has a three video set on performance enhancements where he suggests taking the hollow end cap bolt, in the end of the fuel rail, in each head and cross drill one of the 1/8" holes to 1/4" and it will allow more fuel volume. I question the benefit of doing that because that bolt has two 1/8" holes drilled in it at 90 degrees to one another. The outlet of the bolt (or orifice) is 1/4" inch. My observation is that two 1/8" holes equal 1/4" and even if you could drill one out to 5/16" it is still feeding into a 1/4" orifice, therefore making the procedure redundant. But I am also willing to admit that perhaps I am simply missing something in the mix here that he understands and I do not.
Other than that I have no qualms with his teachings. A lot of sound advice if you ask me and I have many years of experience in the automotive industry making repairs of drivetrain components. I sought out help with my powerstroke because I had no experience with diesels and was having issues with my engine. Through the videos Bill puts out and the manual I purchased from turbodiesel.com, I have solved all problems except one. My fuel mileage is inconsistent. it jumps every tank full, anywhere from 15 to 21mpg with no rhyme or reason.
#18
#19
Semantics
Here's the resistors you want... Unhook your batts, take your IDM out, pop the top. Look at the small workspace you got to work in and then decide if its something you can do... I had the resistors in my hand, I had the IDM apart and decided not to do it for the minimal gain I would maybe see... Just my .02 but it would be cool if you did it and took some pictures and did a little write up so we can have it here on the site for other members...
Digi-Key - PPC75.0KXCT-ND (Manufacturer - SFR16S0007502FR500)
Digi-Key - PPC75.0KXCT-ND (Manufacturer - SFR16S0007502FR500)
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