ADJUSTING/REPLACING THE P7100 FUEL PLATE
#13
8mm 1/4" drive socket, hammmer, flat sharp chisel,metal scribe 3''-4'' 1/4'' extension,1/4'' drive ratchet, flat blad screw driver, 10mm 3/8 drive socket and 3/8 ratchet (if your removing intake),and a metric socket type allen head socket for the star wheel plug....forgot the size tho if your doing anything to these trucks this is a procedure your gonna get to know. i keep the main tools to do this in my door,cause i am always fooling around with it, i wish i had a chassie dyno to play with
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dodgecumminspower (04-06-2009)
#15
Do you just have the stock plate? If so then moving it up won't really hurt your truck. The transmission is the weak link if you have an auto and the clutch is the manual's down fall. The clutch will take a lot more pounding than the stock converter of an auto though.
Stock plate FF won't really smoke a ton. Go ahead and move the AFC all the way forward while your at it. It will help things on the low end.
Stock plate FF won't really smoke a ton. Go ahead and move the AFC all the way forward while your at it. It will help things on the low end.
#16
i didnt knowing a damn thing bout this generation of dodge until i read this. now im on my 3rd plate. and got this job down to bout an hour and a half. thanks much on the much needed no how....
#17
Welcome... Ryan...
Glad you found this useful. There are a bunch of other threads on turning up the p-pump.
Glad you found this useful. There are a bunch of other threads on turning up the p-pump.
#20
first gauges are a must! then you you can go on, but doing this you have to use caution because to Mutch power will destroy your stock trans!