crank case filter delete
#11
#13
#14
ok i just took it apart and i dont think there is going to be any gutting after re looking at it dont know if you can tell by the pictures but i dont see why we couldnt just completely remove it cause its all sealed up i was thinking that the filter was a sealed filter for somereason but its not let me know what you guys think thanks for the help
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BIGREDGOAT (04-15-2012)
#16
My truck was in the dealer for it's yearly service (axle fluid, tranny and transfer serivce, etc) and they told me this filter was clogged...
I just looked under the hood and I don't see anything that looks like that under there..
Can ya take a picture of where it is on the motor? I didn't see anything that looked like that at all..
I wouldn't cap the engine off either, that's going to cause alot of crankcae pressure, best thing to do would be to get a rubber hose, and a brather filter like pictured above and vent the crankcase out to that, and then cap off the inlet that's on the turbo.. that thing doesn't need the air coming in thru there, but the engine certainly needs a way to release pressure.
We do this with LS engines in GM cars/trucks all the time, remove the PCV completely, put a breather filter in place of the oil fill cap, and then cap off the entire PCV system on the engine and the intake manifold, works great. No more oil sludge getting into the intake manifold.
I just looked under the hood and I don't see anything that looks like that under there..
Can ya take a picture of where it is on the motor? I didn't see anything that looked like that at all..
I wouldn't cap the engine off either, that's going to cause alot of crankcae pressure, best thing to do would be to get a rubber hose, and a brather filter like pictured above and vent the crankcase out to that, and then cap off the inlet that's on the turbo.. that thing doesn't need the air coming in thru there, but the engine certainly needs a way to release pressure.
We do this with LS engines in GM cars/trucks all the time, remove the PCV completely, put a breather filter in place of the oil fill cap, and then cap off the entire PCV system on the engine and the intake manifold, works great. No more oil sludge getting into the intake manifold.
#17
ya the way they run now on the 6.7 the sludge ends up in your intercooler what a great place for oil to go but there are about 6 or 8 bolts on the top of the valve cover dont poke fun at the pic i already had this one and think it will give you a good idea of the location but on 5.9 it dumps the air out side so y cant the 6.7 well now mine does
Last edited by coors_man_2005; 04-06-2011 at 10:07 PM.
#18
So the filter is under what looks like the valve cover?
If that's the case... then it's not a simple deal to just run a hose off of it, and then put a breather on like you did there..
That breather filter, is the line hooked up to the turbo or the crankcase? It looks to me like it is hooked up to the turbo....
I just need to see a better picture of where that is hooked up to.
I'd like to just be able to run a hose off the point of connection that the stock filter is hooked up, and put a filter on like you did, or a k/n one, something I can run down to the corner of the engine bay so the oil mist doesn't **** everything up. Then just clean the filter off every oil change and call it a day.
Apparently, once my warrenty is up, I will now be putting the EGR and DPF deletes in, and I will be looking for a way to vent the crankcase as well.... ugh.
If that's the case... then it's not a simple deal to just run a hose off of it, and then put a breather on like you did there..
That breather filter, is the line hooked up to the turbo or the crankcase? It looks to me like it is hooked up to the turbo....
I just need to see a better picture of where that is hooked up to.
I'd like to just be able to run a hose off the point of connection that the stock filter is hooked up, and put a filter on like you did, or a k/n one, something I can run down to the corner of the engine bay so the oil mist doesn't **** everything up. Then just clean the filter off every oil change and call it a day.
Apparently, once my warrenty is up, I will now be putting the EGR and DPF deletes in, and I will be looking for a way to vent the crankcase as well.... ugh.
#19
yes under there its more like a cap on the valve cover and the filter is setup to filter the crank case and the blow by or what ever you want to call it drains off in the turbo the way i have it right now is pretty simple and the theory of the 90 to the filter is what ever oil tries to come up will run back down in the valve cover where it should be which allowing it still to vent its very simple and i have not had one bit of oil or spray come out been running it for a while now works like a champ
#20
Ok so you just took the line off going to the turbo, and put a 90 facing upwards, and that's what the filter is attached to....
The thing is that with the line attached to the inlet of the turbo it's acting as a vacuum pump, probably sucking the fumes and whatnot out of the engine.
I really wonder, if there would be a way to just put an inline fuel filter in there on the line going to the turbo, like the clear ones... have to be pretty big for the airflow needed and clear so you can see when it's dirty. But, that way it can work like the factory intended, and you could have a "cheap" filter to clean/replace. Ideal thing would be to find a way to bypass the factory deal and put one of those in it's place... but you'd have to have a plug that goes in place of it's inlet and whatnot.
This should be something one of the sponsor's has the resources to come up with. If the filter is less then 130 bucks I'd do it... cause that's what the filter cost me at the dealer last week!
The thing is that with the line attached to the inlet of the turbo it's acting as a vacuum pump, probably sucking the fumes and whatnot out of the engine.
I really wonder, if there would be a way to just put an inline fuel filter in there on the line going to the turbo, like the clear ones... have to be pretty big for the airflow needed and clear so you can see when it's dirty. But, that way it can work like the factory intended, and you could have a "cheap" filter to clean/replace. Ideal thing would be to find a way to bypass the factory deal and put one of those in it's place... but you'd have to have a plug that goes in place of it's inlet and whatnot.
This should be something one of the sponsor's has the resources to come up with. If the filter is less then 130 bucks I'd do it... cause that's what the filter cost me at the dealer last week!