Can you smoke switch a 6.7???
 

So I have read all this jazz on a smoke switch, aka MAP sensor bypass-home made switch and was curious if it was possible on the 6.7?? Like any diesel guy I want some smoke to piss off the power jokes when then come asking for trouble, and the Smarty dont seem to make any up to SW5, and I dont have enough cash at the moment to make upgrades to run above SW5 (ie clutch, injectors)

I have also read stacking the Juice with the Smarty will roll some coal, and that the Juice has a "smoke program" Not sure if any of that is true or not....

I have tried everything on the smarty, higher SW# and the clutch slips, higher torque manegment #, Higher everything with no joy...or am I just not making the right adjustments...anybody have a combo that rolls some smoke besides SW9 and drop the hammer?

I just wish Smarty would add a "smoke" option for rednecks like me, that would pump some serious smoke on any SW# while at WOT...would make life simple!! I mean come on, half of us are running ME on the street and DPF deletes, so bring us what we want..(or atleast I) smoke! I wouldnt care if it killed some hp and mpg:rocking:

Thanks
Mike

Yes, you can do a smoke switch. I sent you a PM with some info.

And we wonder why we are getting a bad name. If you truck smokes when its making serious power for a sled pull or a race at a track, more power to you. To smoke for the sake of smoking :booo: Why not figure out how to make your truck make good power and run completely clean so you can really sneak up on people. Imagine blowing the doors off a powerstroke with no smoke, how is he gonna feel then. Anybody can dump excess fuel in the chamber and make smoke, can you find the power balance, can you make the other guy go "sh!t, he beat me and didn't smoke at all, what the hell"? I guess what I am saying is kindly jump on board with those of us that have been at this a while and don't want to see our beloved sport fall to the wayside.

To each his own. Some people like smoke some people like efficiency others like different things. Wanting to smoke doesn't bring down the sport. Its just different priorities. Kinda like a show truck vs a pull truck. Both are great trucks for different reasons. He wants his smoke for show.

Oh I beg to differ, people running around smoking people out on public streets is very bad for our sport. We are looking worse than the ricer crowd in John Q. Public's eyes already, we must start policing our own, and getting people educated. Like I said, on the track, drag or sled, get after it. But why would you not care about sacrificing HP if you are competing. It is clear to me he wants to go around town smoking, and thats just plain childish.

First off, dont judge and lable those you dont know...I maybe a diesel rookie, but I aint a young punk (same age as you 29) looking to "bring the diesel crowd" a bad name! Your comment makes no sense since almost ANYBODY running a newer diesel is running it DPF delete and EGR delete...THATS AGAINST FEDERAL LAW! How about a bad name there....? And dont you think the tree loving hippies think it is EVEN MORE offensive to see a rig belch out a nuclear cloud of smoke to pull a sled for 300 feet????? You create more emmisons and fill the sky with more shi* in 300ft then I would do in a MONTH on a few hits of the throttle in town...and Im proud of it!

And talking about protecting your sport, its because of your sport many people like me want to roll some smoke! Seeing that volume of smoke erupting out of a truck like that is impressive. Every diesel mag you see shows diesel's pumping the black cloud of death...thats what sells parts. And if it would be cool to smoke a power joke with no smoke and make him wonder, then why dont you set the example in your sport and pull that insane weight with no smoke...??? Yeah , impossible. So to call out a guy who wants a little smoke by the people who inspire me to smoke dont add up in my book! I go to sled pulls to hear engines roar, turbos spool and smoke tower into the sky blocking the sun, not to watch weight move.

So I think I am doing the sport good, if I piss off a 100 people who will NEVER:
1: Own a diesel
2: Support the aftermarket
3: Complain about everything

I could care less, but if my simple street creation might inspire just one person it MAY:
1: Drive them to buy a diesel
2: Inspire them to buy aftermarket parts and suport the people that SPONSOR you
3: May lead them to get involved into a sanctioned body and participate, that money PAYS your purse at an event.

Or is it acceptable if I make some smoke with a boat load of parts I cant affoard yet versus wasting some fuel and being smarter then the aftermarket and fooling a simple sensor...that is more exciting to me then replacing parts...cause see I have built every toy I own. NEVER HAVE paid for labor, so to respect the sport, I learn the sport, I build, I break, I ask.....

Dont read me wrong my friend, I love any motor sport...thats all I know! Racing AMA, and NMRA/NHRA most my life! I run a 1000hp twin turbo 10.5 car on the street for fun burning high lead and the whole nine...illegal as hell..and 3 times as worse emmisons then any diesel, but you cant see it...so does that make it any less worse...? Dont think as a drag racer that my sport was frowned upon when all the fast and furious crap came out! We were the bastards of society cause some dumb 16 year old bought a ricer and killed people on the street racing, but you know what we got over it and still ran race cars on the road to intice people to the track doing "street cruises" and getting people to provide hang outs for racers and finally get some tracks to have street nights and open the gates at $5 a car.

PEOPLE DO IT ON THE STREET because they cant affoard to begin to compete..and I dont beleive thats thier problem.

And I would think a simple smoke switch is SAFER and more RESPONSIBLE for playing around then it is to jack these programmers to 150-200hp settings and dropping the hammer in hopes of smoke..call that childish, but I would rather fool a sensor at 15-20mph and make a puff then be a retard pulling away at a light at Mach 1 starring out the rear-view looking for that puff.

Maybe its your area...Im not in any city, I have one freakin street light, and loggin is the prime industy, so when 15,000pds of hard earned lumber pass me at 80mph and I see the coal a rollin it makes me proud to be an AMERICAN!

So, stand up for what you believe...a bad name for no one I desire, a SEMA member, NHRA license holder I am, AMA card holder I am...I respect organizations and our sports, but dont think something is better cause you cant see it!!!! And if it pisses them off, I hope the last 3things they see in my trail of smoke is 1) My POW/MIA magnet, 2) My Support our troops magnet, 3) My GOT DAM* smoke, cause I earn my money, I defend my country and I will roll how I want to! If there are people in this country who get more rights and more rules changed that wont even stand up and remove thier cover during the National Anthem you can guarentee I WILL ROLL SMOKE BABY!!!!!

Anyways...all we are debating over is smoke ( And you picked on one who loves to DEBATE)...how funny

Mike

Here is the race car:

Here is the bike

I compete as a member in sanctioned events twice a month. There is a difference between a sportsman and a tool, I just wanna show off some smoke, not ash in my whole town.

I AGREE WOULD ALSO LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO INSTALL A SMOKE SWITCH :choochoo:

Not to jump on one person or the others bandwagon but... I really enjoyed puffing a little smoke with my 5.9 and would also be intersted in a way to smoke with my 6.7.

I figured out how to on Cummins forum it had really good instructions on how to i plan to do mine when i get home this weekend.pretty simple all you need is a 100 ohm 10 Wyatt resistor 14 gauge wire and a spst toggle switch.:ok1:

Hooking mine up tonight. Sounds like a very simple install, just tap into the map. Just dont sell your self short for a smaller watt resistor. I have read anything below a 10 watt resistor will cause the truck to stumble and run very rough while the switch is on.

Will post up results

hope it works...got me interested now..lol

Good Luck gentleman, let me know.

Here is the resistor you need:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062293

id also like the info on how to do a smoke switch for my buddys 6.7

how u hook that up, and how much smokin the goat doin now?

Here is the scoop fellas! The coolest, easiest and cheapest thing I have put on my truck. Took me about an hour to rig up.

Here you go!

Tap into the MAP sensor, its right on the air horn elbow, cant miss it. The plug has 4 wires. The 2 closest to the drivers side are your wires. One is solid brown and the other a yellow/pink wire.

Rig a switch where you want it in the cab. The yellow/pink wire is the wire I placed the resistor on. I hooked the resistor right off the switch. So basicaly this way, switch, spade terminal, resistor, buttt connector, wire.

The brown wire goes straight to the other side of the switch with a spade terminal.

WHATEVER you do, do not supply any additional source of power to the switch!! You will melt the map sensor. Use ONLY the two wires mentioned and when they connect the magic happens.

I didnt cut the map wires, I just used the blue wire clamps so if I have to remove it I wont have to re-splice the wires.

Once your all wires your set!! I found a large rubber gromet boot on the fire wall and poked a hole and ran the wires. Just dont crazy when poking into the cab through the fire wall. The boot has 2 layers, engine bay side and inside the cab. Its a little annoying to get the wires through, but dont stab it too hard, there is alot of wire and plugs inside the cab you can easily stab with a knife or screw driver.

Anyways, as simple as pie to do!! I love it! Flipped the switch and had no idea anything changed. The motor ran like normal and I stabbed the throttle in neutral and OHHH YA!! Rolling coal!

Enjoy! Here are some pics, hope they help! They weak cell pics but the best I could do.

Mike

i agree mojo,,,i love the smoke,i always say why do i have stacks if they dont smoke,,,well i was gonna do the smoke switch also have the resistors the switch ect ect ready to do it,,but i dont like to mess with my map ,,in return messes with the turbo,,so i figured i'd get rid of the smarty once and for all and get an xrt cause that makes ya smoke w/o blowin yur headgasket with the smarty,,yes yes the smarty gives way to much drive pressure,i no i have installed a drive pressure boost gauge to monitor these things and when i go wot on evan sw5 the ratio is 2.1 on the gauges ,my intake boost is 30psi where my drive pressure is 56psi go figure,,,thats the nature of the smarty,it blows head gaskets and luckilly for me i have arp's in ,,i did a 1/4 mile run at race city in calgary a couple weeks ago on sw9 vgt on 4 and evrything else on 2 with the smarty my drive pressure was 68psi if u didnt have the arp's the head woulda lifted to the moon,,,so i decided to go with the xrt cause in the 120 and 175 tune you get lots of smoke when ya want it...just like the old pmt,,,im not trying to compare tuners here im just saying the smoke switch lags yur turbo ans well im very sceptickle about doin that for there exp,,,i love smoke to ,just want to do it the right way,,good luck and i hope i wasnt to hard to understand......:rocking:

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i see ya did it the dudgy way ,,lol right on,,and you found the 10w 100ohm resistor ,,good job,,just watch yur tur turbo dude and make sure you eal the map wires with heat shrink you dont want to get them wet,,,,

Man the Smarty is that hard on the motor?? Im a diesel newbie so I went with what seemed popular and had good options. I went Smarty. Can you reduce the drive pressure with a different turbo (Exh A/R)? How are all the guys surviving the Smarty on SW9?? The sigs dont sound like fully built trucks, just the normal bolt ons and injectors....

I wouldn't think fooling the map would hurt the turbo...? Its an electrical fooling, making the ECM think its at full boost which would result in fuel being delivered at that rate to coinside with the proper psi. The smoke switch really only works down low and idel, or neutral hits, which none of those spool the turbo. Just thinking out loud

...but really interested in the potential downside on the Smarty...I run this hell out of mine on SW5, TQ3 RP2 IT2 VGT4...Ticking time bomb????

some peaps will tell ya different,,im no mechanic by any means just a die hard diesel fan,,but i dont like messing with the sensors there expensive and well so is the whole engine,,i was talking with my mechanic and he told me not to do it just to be safe,,,ya a bigger turbo and a aftermarket manifold will deff keep the drive pressure down,but remember the higher you go with the smarty the more pressure you put in there,,and yur stock headstuds are only good for 55psi thats with the safety factor ,,like i say each is to there own ,,but i'd rather make my smoke naturally not tapping into my sensors to make it do that ,,just for my stock turbo's sake remember when yur maps all plugged up you will get the lightning bolt on yur dash and you'll create lots of smoke then aswell,,its kind of the same thing with the switch jmo,,,,take a look on the for sale section that might help ya out if yur keeping the smarty lol

Thanks for the info!! I didn't or have not yet turned the CEL on with the smoke switch running. If you use the proper resistor it keeps the voltage in the proper reference range so the ECU dont see it as an over boost and throw a code. (Atleast thats what I make of it all)

I figured as much back pressure the DPF makes and hurts the turbo that a little extra fuel shouldn't bother it one bit! :rock:

I just went Smarty cause they seem to be Dodge specific more then every bland brand kinda thing...and they have updated thier power levels and taped into the VGT side and all that. :rock:

I have heard alot about the XRT side of things...maybe just stack the two?? :se:
HAHA

Im pretty happy know, I think regardless of what box you run the weak link seems to be the clutch? She seems to get angry and slip pretty easy above SW and TQ 4, esp with 38's.:hurt:

im not sayin yur gonna get a cel from the switch,,im saying its like the same thing with the turbo lag and all the smoke ,,ive already had to change the map sensor cause it was full of sut and im talkin chunks,,,and my eb brake dont work anymore ,,so its probably all related ,,eitherway like i always say ,good luck with any mod you do....its all trial and error...every mod that is,,,and any tuners better then the pmt so its all good,,its just keep it in the back of yur mind if somethin goes wrong....

Roger that! Thanks, and ya like I said, I live, I learn and hope not to break! HAHA

Well said at the beginning of the thread 6.7 MoJo. I completely agree. Roll on !

Thanks brother! "Together we shall smoke!"

Well I'm resent newbie from cumminsforum.....:ok1: and I have had the smoke switch on for a while ... not a hole lot of anything happens a little puff of black. So in a move to get move I tried it without any resistors and MAN what a headache that was. ALOT of codes and ALOT of code clearing from the smarty ... it's back to normal

I tired just a 10ohm and no luck there 5 codes later it got it back to normal again

So I just picked up some new resistors with a 5% margin on them and we'll see how they do ! I 'll keep all of you posted as to if it makes a difference with the smaller margin resistors:5:

I run SW9 on occasion. But I do have a DD valair clutch :rocking:

The worst thing is usually when I put it on SW9 I have had a few beers :se:

how u liking the valair? i need a new clutch like it aint nobodys business!

'Ol boy didn't retort to this response? LOL, that's good stuff man. :c:

The clutch? it makes alot of noise. Some of the noises make the truck sound tougher, some of em make it sound broken... Like when I hold the clutch in it makes a sound, that i would compare to taking a fork and scratching it in circles on a ceramic plate... :argh: The clutch is hard to push, but that doesnt bother me, but what does bother me is it seems harder to put in gear.... But the one thing it does do is hold power. So thats what the paper said it would do, so I guess im not allowed to complain:ouch:

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Hows the switch treating you? I was so interested I ordered the resistors the first time I read this post... Yet I hesitate because there must be some downside to it.

The smoke switch is my new best friend! The truck has not skipped a beat or acted any different since the install, the only down side...having smoke at your command!

And what I have learned playing with it, is it works best at low rpm, especialy neutral (6-stick) and revving it up. If your already crusing and up in the rpms, above 1500-1800 it throws a light cloud then clears up quick, but if your at a stop light or just taking off, its real nice with a quick hit of the throttle.

Dont be suprised if your straight piped with stacks, it will rain raw fuel if you leave the switch on and hit it several times. I was at my buddies house in his drive way, and I left the switch on and hit it 4-5 times in neutral, and there were all these little streaks of black soot that was still wet to the touch. Needless to say, after my first day with it my truck looked like a Zebra from pulling into all my Power Joke friends driveways and sending them a little puff of Cummins!!!

Its a blast and worry free! The most fun $5 has ever brought me!

Mike

Does it matter if i install the resistor right after the switch, or a little down the line?
And also, does the resistor heat up any with use?

I would not see any problems if you placed the resistor any where in the line, it just reduces the 12V signal down to around 5V, and I also would not forsee any heating issues since it is only reduces 12 to 5V, and those large Radio Shack resistors are heavy duty and insulated. Just a novice electrican opinion from the little I know, I would be willing to say your safe.

Thanks, Im probably gonna go for it now... :5:

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Got it installed :rocking: Finally my horsepower is on display :c:

:ty::ty::ty::ty::ty::ty:could you make a vid on how to do it. im not good on pics but i can learn a lot from watching
:rocking:

Can you put up a link to where you got the switch?

I did it just like you did but my does throw a code, not anytrhing bad, but whats the deal?

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Mine throws code p0106-Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit range/performance. It came on about 2 minutes into running the truck with the switch on. I have an h&s black maxx, and when i turn the switch off and use the black maxx to clear the code the idiot light still is on even though i cleared it and the switch is off. Even after turning the truck off and restarting the truck the light is still on and it is the same code. Any idieas? Also when i have the switch on it also turns the lighting bolt looking light on in the dash and at higher speeds and rpm's it starts to miss out a little bit. But fine when i turn off the switch, any takers on this one? Thanks.

The only thing I have read is if you do not have the right ohm resistor it will screw with the truck. Ensure you have the same resistor like I have on page 2 of this forum. I have read on other sights the lower the ohm..the rougher the truck runs? You could have the right ohm but it could be a cheap one with horrible tolerance and as the resistor gets warm it loses its resistance....? Not sure unless it might have something to do with running a different tuner? Maybe the tuner re-programs the MAP at the threshold of a CEL then the smoke switch pushes it way too high..?

I have been running mine for over 6 months with out a CEL. I got hammered one night and had my buddy drive home and he hit the switch with his knee and it was on straight for 2 hours! And no issues other then it smelt like I was hauling a leaking 55 gal barrel of diesel fuel HAHA.

Also, a quality switch could be important? And descent gauge wire? Anything too small can create issues that carries a load. I have some extra painless wiring switches from my race car that I used, and around a 12-14ga wire.

Hope this helps... :c:

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Check on page two, I have some pics and links where to shop. Radio Shack, and the actual switch is just an extra from the tool box.