Can you smoke switch a 6.7???
#12
#13
#17
The following users liked this post:
CUMMINONYOU89 (02-21-2012)
#19
Here is the scoop fellas! The coolest, easiest and cheapest thing I have put on my truck. Took me about an hour to rig up.
Here you go!
Tap into the MAP sensor, its right on the air horn elbow, cant miss it. The plug has 4 wires. The 2 closest to the drivers side are your wires. One is solid brown and the other a yellow/pink wire.
Rig a switch where you want it in the cab. The yellow/pink wire is the wire I placed the resistor on. I hooked the resistor right off the switch. So basicaly this way, switch, spade terminal, resistor, buttt connector, wire.
The brown wire goes straight to the other side of the switch with a spade terminal.
WHATEVER you do, do not supply any additional source of power to the switch!! You will melt the map sensor. Use ONLY the two wires mentioned and when they connect the magic happens.
I didnt cut the map wires, I just used the blue wire clamps so if I have to remove it I wont have to re-splice the wires.
Once your all wires your set!! I found a large rubber gromet boot on the fire wall and poked a hole and ran the wires. Just dont crazy when poking into the cab through the fire wall. The boot has 2 layers, engine bay side and inside the cab. Its a little annoying to get the wires through, but dont stab it too hard, there is alot of wire and plugs inside the cab you can easily stab with a knife or screw driver.
Anyways, as simple as pie to do!! I love it! Flipped the switch and had no idea anything changed. The motor ran like normal and I stabbed the throttle in neutral and OHHH YA!! Rolling coal!
Enjoy! Here are some pics, hope they help! They weak cell pics but the best I could do.
Mike
Here you go!
Tap into the MAP sensor, its right on the air horn elbow, cant miss it. The plug has 4 wires. The 2 closest to the drivers side are your wires. One is solid brown and the other a yellow/pink wire.
Rig a switch where you want it in the cab. The yellow/pink wire is the wire I placed the resistor on. I hooked the resistor right off the switch. So basicaly this way, switch, spade terminal, resistor, buttt connector, wire.
The brown wire goes straight to the other side of the switch with a spade terminal.
WHATEVER you do, do not supply any additional source of power to the switch!! You will melt the map sensor. Use ONLY the two wires mentioned and when they connect the magic happens.
I didnt cut the map wires, I just used the blue wire clamps so if I have to remove it I wont have to re-splice the wires.
Once your all wires your set!! I found a large rubber gromet boot on the fire wall and poked a hole and ran the wires. Just dont crazy when poking into the cab through the fire wall. The boot has 2 layers, engine bay side and inside the cab. Its a little annoying to get the wires through, but dont stab it too hard, there is alot of wire and plugs inside the cab you can easily stab with a knife or screw driver.
Anyways, as simple as pie to do!! I love it! Flipped the switch and had no idea anything changed. The motor ran like normal and I stabbed the throttle in neutral and OHHH YA!! Rolling coal!
Enjoy! Here are some pics, hope they help! They weak cell pics but the best I could do.
Mike
Last edited by 6.7 MoJo; 09-03-2009 at 10:17 AM.
#20
i agree mojo,,,i love the smoke,i always say why do i have stacks if they dont smoke,,,well i was gonna do the smoke switch also have the resistors the switch ect ect ready to do it,,but i dont like to mess with my map ,,in return messes with the turbo,,so i figured i'd get rid of the smarty once and for all and get an xrt cause that makes ya smoke w/o blowin yur headgasket with the smarty,,yes yes the smarty gives way to much drive pressure,i no i have installed a drive pressure boost gauge to monitor these things and when i go wot on evan sw5 the ratio is 2.1 on the gauges ,my intake boost is 30psi where my drive pressure is 56psi go figure,,,thats the nature of the smarty,it blows head gaskets and luckilly for me i have arp's in ,,i did a 1/4 mile run at race city in calgary a couple weeks ago on sw9 vgt on 4 and evrything else on 2 with the smarty my drive pressure was 68psi if u didnt have the arp's the head woulda lifted to the moon,,,so i decided to go with the xrt cause in the 120 and 175 tune you get lots of smoke when ya want it...just like the old pmt,,,im not trying to compare tuners here im just saying the smoke switch lags yur turbo ans well im very sceptickle about doin that for there exp,,,i love smoke to ,just want to do it the right way,,good luck and i hope i wasnt to hard to understand......
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
i see ya did it the dudgy way ,, right on,,and you found the 10w 100ohm resistor ,,good job,,just watch yur tur turbo dude and make sure you eal the map wires with heat shrink you dont want to get them wet,,,,
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Here is the scoop fellas! The coolest, easiest and cheapest thing I have put on my truck. Took me about an hour to rig up.
Here you go!
Tap into the MAP sensor, its right on the air horn elbow, cant miss it. The plug has 4 wires. The 2 closest to the drivers side are your wires. One is solid brown and the other a yellow/pink wire.
Rig a switch where you want it in the cab. The yellow/pink wire is the wire I placed the resistor on. I hooked the resistor right off the switch. So basicaly this way, switch, spade terminal, resistor, buttt connector, wire.
The brown wire goes straight to the other side of the switch with a spade terminal.
WHATEVER you do, do not supply any additional source of power to the switch!! You will melt the map sensor. Use ONLY the two wires mentioned and when they connect the magic happens.
I didnt cut the map wires, I just used the blue wire clamps so if I have to remove it I wont have to re-splice the wires.
Once your all wires your set!! I found a large rubber gromet boot on the fire wall and poked a hole and ran the wires. Just dont crazy when poking into the cab through the fire wall. The boot has 2 layers, engine bay side and inside the cab. Its a little annoying to get the wires through, but dont stab it too hard, there is alot of wire and plugs inside the cab you can easily stab with a knife or screw driver.
Anyways, as simple as pie to do!! I love it! Flipped the switch and had no idea anything changed. The motor ran like normal and I stabbed the throttle in neutral and OHHH YA!! Rolling coal!
Enjoy! Here are some pics, hope they help! They weak cell pics but the best I could do.
Mike
Here you go!
Tap into the MAP sensor, its right on the air horn elbow, cant miss it. The plug has 4 wires. The 2 closest to the drivers side are your wires. One is solid brown and the other a yellow/pink wire.
Rig a switch where you want it in the cab. The yellow/pink wire is the wire I placed the resistor on. I hooked the resistor right off the switch. So basicaly this way, switch, spade terminal, resistor, buttt connector, wire.
The brown wire goes straight to the other side of the switch with a spade terminal.
WHATEVER you do, do not supply any additional source of power to the switch!! You will melt the map sensor. Use ONLY the two wires mentioned and when they connect the magic happens.
I didnt cut the map wires, I just used the blue wire clamps so if I have to remove it I wont have to re-splice the wires.
Once your all wires your set!! I found a large rubber gromet boot on the fire wall and poked a hole and ran the wires. Just dont crazy when poking into the cab through the fire wall. The boot has 2 layers, engine bay side and inside the cab. Its a little annoying to get the wires through, but dont stab it too hard, there is alot of wire and plugs inside the cab you can easily stab with a knife or screw driver.
Anyways, as simple as pie to do!! I love it! Flipped the switch and had no idea anything changed. The motor ran like normal and I stabbed the throttle in neutral and OHHH YA!! Rolling coal!
Enjoy! Here are some pics, hope they help! They weak cell pics but the best I could do.
Mike
Last edited by diggerdave; 09-03-2009 at 05:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost