Is there much gain doing an electric fan mod?
#1
Is there much gain doing an electric fan mod?
I have done electric fan modifications on other vehicles and it has increased performance and decreased drag on the engine from the mechanical fan. Has anyone done an electric fan mod here? I am also thinking it would help warm up the engine by being in control of when the fan goes on and off. Any input fellas?
#2
I have done electric fan modifications on other vehicles and it has increased performance and decreased drag on the engine from the mechanical fan. Has anyone done an electric fan mod here? I am also thinking it would help warm up the engine by being in control of when the fan goes on and off. Any input fellas?
The "problem" with diesels warming up quickly is they use very little fuel at idle.
Fuel is heat in a diesel, more fuel more heat.
Ours only idle at 5-7 mm3 (depends on your calibration).
Not enough to build heat quickly.
Install a fast idle switch if you want it to warm up quicker. Keep it plugged in also.
Small and picky point:
Electric fans don't make any HP. There is less used up in the accessory drive, thus; more available to move the vehicle.
There is no free lunch though; once the kick on, the alternator eats up HP from the accessory drive.
With a properly working clutch fan, the difference between an engine driven fan and an electric set is minimal....more minimal when those dual fans kick on at their 65-odd amp startup load and then drop to a 45-ish amp constant load....
Last edited by great white; 04-20-2012 at 09:55 AM.
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r2d (04-20-2012)
#3
Derail my own thread. Is that allowed?
Thank you. What you say, makes logical sense to me. Electric fan mod is no longer an option.
I am not sure on my calibration. After the Peninsular block and Holset turbo were put in, the computer was professionally re calibrated accordingly.
I do have a glow plug shut off override switch. How can I tell if I have a fast idle switch? I am going to contact the original owner. After a minute of "normal idle" it will kick into a much louder and slightly faster idle.
The "problem" with diesels warming up quickly is they use very little fuel at idle.Fuel is heat in a diesel, more fuel more heat.Ours only idle at 5-7 mm3 (depends on your calibration). Not enough to build heat quickly. Install a fast idle switch if you want it to warm up quicker. Keep it plugged in also.
I do have a glow plug shut off override switch. How can I tell if I have a fast idle switch? I am going to contact the original owner. After a minute of "normal idle" it will kick into a much louder and slightly faster idle.
#4
Thank you. What you say, makes logical sense to me. Electric fan mod is no longer an option.
I am not sure on my calibration. After the Peninsular block and Holset turbo were put in, the computer was professionally re calibrated accordingly.
I do have a glow plug shut off override switch. How can I tell if I have a fast idle switch? I am going to contact the original owner. After a minute of "normal idle" it will kick into a much louder and slightly faster idle.
I am not sure on my calibration. After the Peninsular block and Holset turbo were put in, the computer was professionally re calibrated accordingly.
I do have a glow plug shut off override switch. How can I tell if I have a fast idle switch? I am going to contact the original owner. After a minute of "normal idle" it will kick into a much louder and slightly faster idle.
Google "6.5 diesel high idle switch".
It's as simmple as a switch, a ground and adding a wire to the PCM pins
Last edited by great white; 04-20-2012 at 09:28 PM.
#8
Laws of physics. Every step adds a reduction in efficiency.
Belt-clutch-fan.
Belt-mechanical to electrical (alternator)- electrical to chemical (battery)-Chemical to electrical-electrical to mechanical (motor).
When the clutch is disengaged the fan takes nearly zero power. Only bearing and slight fluid friction, less than 2hp drag at maximum RPM and at speed the natural airflow through the radiator lessens that to nearly zero. On top of that, engine driven fans move far more air than electric fans and have no wiring system to burn out.
Belt-clutch-fan.
Belt-mechanical to electrical (alternator)- electrical to chemical (battery)-Chemical to electrical-electrical to mechanical (motor).
When the clutch is disengaged the fan takes nearly zero power. Only bearing and slight fluid friction, less than 2hp drag at maximum RPM and at speed the natural airflow through the radiator lessens that to nearly zero. On top of that, engine driven fans move far more air than electric fans and have no wiring system to burn out.
#9
I can think of one instance where an electrical fan would be advantageous to a mechanical: a big, black Suburban in Phoenix running the A/C while parked in the summer sun. Yes, the truck should be at high idle if the a/c is on, but it still may not move sufficient air in such adverse conditions.