FAN CLUTCH ON 6.5L
#2
10-20-2015, 07:17 AM
DO NOT DO THAT, gasser fan blades do not pull enough air, also same with electric fans.
What fan setup do you have, spin on or 4 bolt flange, is your current fan not working why the desire to eliminate the clutch ?
Your 99 has latest cooling GM had for the 6.5, there are some improvements to be had going to DMax style composite fan vs steel most 6.5s came with.
Are you in in an overheat situation now ?
What fan setup do you have, spin on or 4 bolt flange, is your current fan not working why the desire to eliminate the clutch ?
Your 99 has latest cooling GM had for the 6.5, there are some improvements to be had going to DMax style composite fan vs steel most 6.5s came with.
Are you in in an overheat situation now ?
Last edited by Turbine Doc; 10-20-2015 at 08:05 AM.
The following users liked this post:
jrsavoie (10-21-2015)
#3
10-20-2015, 07:55 AM
I have the spin on type , and yes in a way your right but what I am looking for is to pull air all the time across the rad the more the better . to where a fan clutch works on heat the more heat the fan clutch locks and the fan pulls. I was considering using an electric fan set-up but there is always a concern that a fuse, a relay would fail and you have no fans. I have seen 12 and 14 blade flex fans on some 6.2L diesels but was wondering if anyone has tried or has installed one on a 6.5L diesel and what they used and how does it preformed. as of right know I am using a fan clutch and just replaced it. trucks today Shure don't fall in the category of yester year well everything was v-belts and things were a bit simpler
#4
10-20-2015, 08:27 AM
12/14 blade flex on 6.2s also a mistake,
OEM setup works quite well proviso being rad and AC Condenser are able to flow air correctly and is 99% of poor cooling issues on 6.5s.
There is a negative pressure area between the condenser and Rad that you cant see until you make an effort to investigate. Birds, bugs, leaves, dirt crud up the fins in ther and a PITA to clean correctly takes about 3 hrs or so.
Remove rad from vehicle, get some "foaming core cleaner" like you see the HVAC guys using , I buy the jug of concentrate from a HVAC supply house it last for years soak the rad down liberally let it foam up, if condenser is charged and working you can leave in truck BUT .....BEE CAREFUL>>>> the stuff can attack paint, let it foam also>
Rinse with garden hose pressure fog spray as fins on both rasd and condenser are easily bent over with a stream or high pressure spray from something like pressure washer.
I also like to connect to my house hot water heater drain **** so I have hot water for rinse and also blow sediment out the bottom of hot water heater.
Repeat the foam/rinse cycle until no more significant crud comes out of the fins/cores, (takes about 3 hrs) you wn't get it all but will be as close to new as you can get without replacing them.
While at it and cooling system is drained, check you T-stats in pot of boiling water, I use wifes candy thermometer to see when stats open 190-195 is what you are looking for
If your 6.5 is consistently operating at 200-210 you need to do the above cleaning, use AC DElco Stats for the 6.5 as the have the proper opening to work with the dual stat setup used in the 97+ year coolant housing manifold, aftermarket stats depending which flavor in there not so much.
If you try to leave full time clutched you are hurting situation robbing power and not running cooling system balanced sort of like running no stats if you are flowing too much the system can't absorb the heat so you wind up with a net effect loss of cooling.
OEM setup works quite well proviso being rad and AC Condenser are able to flow air correctly and is 99% of poor cooling issues on 6.5s.
There is a negative pressure area between the condenser and Rad that you cant see until you make an effort to investigate. Birds, bugs, leaves, dirt crud up the fins in ther and a PITA to clean correctly takes about 3 hrs or so.
Remove rad from vehicle, get some "foaming core cleaner" like you see the HVAC guys using , I buy the jug of concentrate from a HVAC supply house it last for years soak the rad down liberally let it foam up, if condenser is charged and working you can leave in truck BUT .....BEE CAREFUL>>>> the stuff can attack paint, let it foam also>
Rinse with garden hose pressure fog spray as fins on both rasd and condenser are easily bent over with a stream or high pressure spray from something like pressure washer.
I also like to connect to my house hot water heater drain **** so I have hot water for rinse and also blow sediment out the bottom of hot water heater.
Repeat the foam/rinse cycle until no more significant crud comes out of the fins/cores, (takes about 3 hrs) you wn't get it all but will be as close to new as you can get without replacing them.
While at it and cooling system is drained, check you T-stats in pot of boiling water, I use wifes candy thermometer to see when stats open 190-195 is what you are looking for
If your 6.5 is consistently operating at 200-210 you need to do the above cleaning, use AC DElco Stats for the 6.5 as the have the proper opening to work with the dual stat setup used in the 97+ year coolant housing manifold, aftermarket stats depending which flavor in there not so much.
If you try to leave full time clutched you are hurting situation robbing power and not running cooling system balanced sort of like running no stats if you are flowing too much the system can't absorb the heat so you wind up with a net effect loss of cooling.
The following users liked this post:
jrsavoie (10-21-2015)
