Where to install jet?
size jet safe with stock injectors?
kit or piece together? Parts list?
what size solenoid?
Zex wot switch or momentary switch?
Race tune on SCT or nitrous specific tune?

As you can see alot of questions. I searched here but "nitrous" turns up nothing. Ive looked at all the other set ups for dodges and dmaxs but no quite sure if all info applies. Im sure there is someone here who runs or has run the juice. Help me out please.

 

My guess would be before the turbo, after the intercooler. Where does the methanol/water or whatever it is go in?

I do know this from my 67 Mustang, by the time you realize that you made a mistake with nitrous, it's too late (a mistake with "little" 125 shot on a 340hp 302 cost me a piston). It can be reliable, but it's unforgiving of mistakes.

I also learned that kits are ALWAYS cheaper than piecing it together. On gas motors, a WOT switch is safer, if something goes wrong, when you lift, the N2O is off.

 

Nitrous is a LOT more forgiving in a diesel motor, nothing like a gas car Karl. We are lucky in the way a diesel works. We add a ton of fuel and let the air catch up (turbo spooling). At idle we already run stupid lean, something in the neighborhood of 500:1... a gas car would never handle that.

So you can just start small with the nozzle sizes and basically keep increasing until you notice the truck going slower. Then it's lost it's efficiency. If you have any black smoke at all, you can use nitrous. Black smoke is just extra fuel, so you can use more air to clean it up.

I would DEFINITELY get tunes specifically for nitrous, no questions asked. They pull some timing out of the tunes, due to the increase cylinder pressures from the spray.

You could piece your own kit together or not, up to you. There are a couple really nice kits aimed specifically at diesels. We use dry nitrous kits, vs. a gas car using a wet kit typically. Wet kit just adds nitrous and extra fuel. We already have the extra fuel so all we need is air (nitrous).

As far as the switch... that's your call. I know most of the 2x4 guys use a progressive controller to help with traction issues. A lot of the weekend warrior drag strip guys with 4x4 use the WOT switches. Or you could always just put a button in somewhere.

Just keep in mind, you will notice reduced EGT's from nitrous, BUT your cylinder temps are actually higher (fuel is burning in the cylinder, instead of in the exhaust manifold now). I know some guys who swear by it because it lowers EGT's, without ever realizing cylinder temps are going up!

 

I read an interesting thread on another site about nitrous yesterday. There was a video that the poster said was the result of hitting the bottle too soon. While spooling up, there was a bang, then a really big bang! I'm sure the dual stacks made it even louder. But this truck is a ***** out 11 sec compound turbo truck too.

Anyway, do LOTS of research before hitting the bottle. And let me tell you what, once you do it, you're hooked! After our mishap we regrouped, did some training, built a stronger motor, and have every intention of spraying it again!

 

obviously being that this is a street truck/dd, a dry shot is in order instead of a wet shot. there are alot of guys making big power with a wet shot on this motor, also on the edge of grenading motors. From the info i got thru nitrous express, it sounds like the best place to install it is in the tube past the intercooler or the intake elbow. the research that ive done says a safe starting point is about a .075 jet on a .093 solenoid with -4an line. Ive been digging a little and im thinking I may be able to find a bottle cheap enough that piecing it together is not out of the question yet.

 

Nitrous Express is a pretty good source. The folks I get my juice from get all of their support from NX. Have you seen this kit? Considering its a 15lb bottle and a progressive controller, it's not too bad.
Nitrous Express NXd Diesel Nitrous System with Progressive Controller NXD1000

About the only thing it's really missing is a bottle warmer. As you use nitrous, the bottle gets cold, the pressure goes down, and the effect of the shot goes down also. I noticed a big hp difference between spraying at 600 psi and 900 psi (optimum psi range). It only takes about a 12 second spray to peel off that 300 psi off bottle pressure.

DON'T buy used solenoids, and DO buy a relay for the solenoids you intend to use. That $875 price tag isn't as high as it looks considering what you're getting.

 

I don't know anyone using a wet shot on a diesel... anywhere. Shaun Ellerton was running 4 stages of spray on his CC/SB 4x4 and he's run 10.40's with it. He typically runs 3 stages. The 4th stage always seemed to overspeed his turbo and he was having issues. Calculators put that truck at OVER 1200 rwhp.

I would just install it in the intake elbow myself.

You can hit it too soon. If you do, the best thing to do is just let off the throttle and let it idle for a few seconds to get that nitrous out of there. There are a lot of vids of guys having nitrous backfires. Not the end of the world once or twice, but over time it could cause some damage. It's probably not anything you need to concern yourself with at this level though.

6.0's love nitrous. Our head design sucks to the Nth degree, so we have extremely limited air flow, this is why the Ford's always seem to pick up huge numbers with spray. Just compensating for poor flowing heads!.

 

Well I just found a used Zex diesel set up for 275 over on the nation. Gonna check the solenoid and i need to get about a .075 jet and a bottle warmer. Gonna get viv over at quicktricks to build a nitrous tune based off the looney with slightly retarded timing and a little extra fuel. now just gotta figure where i want to mount the bottle. there are some guys over on comp-d running wet systems. I think two of them have wet systems actually. both are running external fuel pumps strictly for the fuel solenoid but id have to get more info on there set-ups. soon

 

I'm not sure if you already know this, but, mount the bottle pointing towards the front of the truck, side to side you can un-cover the pick up tube inside the bottle when the nitrous level is low under acceleration. On NOS bottles, the pick up tube is bent in such a way that if the exit is down, so is the pick up tube, this is what you want.

Don't forget to use a psi gauge, nothing like expecting that big kick in the pants only to find out it was just a love tap because your bottle was at 650 psi.

Mmmm nitrous!

 

Bottle warmers FTW! Or use a torch.... hehe