I bought my coolant bypass filter kit and installed it over the weekend. Super piece of equipment! I definitely needed this because of an error in judgement in March...my grandmother turned 90 this year and I went to visit at her BIG birthday party. Unfortunately, the lower radiator hose rubbed against my steering connection and burst. I was able to get the lower radiator hose from the local Ford dealer but I didn't have time to fix AND attend the party so I foolishly let my parents "trusted" service center install the hose and refill the radiator (Ford was backed up...and they would have been a better choice as they service Fleet vehicles - my truck is an F-550). Long story short, rather than use the correct coolant (which they had), they opted to use "universal" coolant (because it's UNIVERSAL - for gas engines though, NOT DIESELS). So I did a full flush (I'm just soulth of 60k miles) and fill (after an initial treatment with VC-9) along with the coolant filter install.

Here's where I stuck it (just like the directions recommend):


I had to modify the bracket a bit (and flip it over because I have larger than stock boost tubes).


I also had to buy a 3/8" FIP to 3/8" MIP street connection at Lowe's to get a little extra room (once again because of the larger boost tubes).


14 flushes later...


...oh yeah, I added an oil bypass filter too (I shamelessly copied another install) and put it behind the grille...


Great weekend!

JDH

2005 Ford F-550 (EarthRoamer XV-LT)

 

Any more info on that oil bypass you built? I'm planning on buying the dieselisite coolant filter setup as well really soon, it's a nice unit.

I gotta say, the 14 flushes looks like you put a lot of time and effort into that and kept it really organized. Cool!

An earthroamer eh? I gotta see this thing....

 

Thanks for the kind words! I used the DieselSite coolant bypass, although the DFUSER looks its equal. I opted for the ball valves as you can see in the photos. I had to buy an additional street fitting (3/8" FIP to 3/8" MIP elbow) for under $4 to gain clearance. The DieselSite kit has everything else, including teflon tape! I think outfitted similarly (I bought two extra filters) the prices are within a few dollars of each other...I bought a transmission bypass filter kit too so perhaps I saved a few dollars that way?

I had to flip the bracket over as i mentioned or the whole filter wouldn't even fit. Fortunately with a little bit of trimming I didn't have to find a fabrication shop to bend a new bracket. A few cuts with my Dremel (safety goggles and pliers to hold in place) and I successfully eye-balled a clean fit. You can see how my aftermarket intercooler bracket is different from stock. I also cut the "stem" from the intercooler bracket bolt (it holds the wiring harness in place but my harness was in no danger of dangling anyway) so that a socket would fit over it...I could've used an open-ended wrench I guess but that would take a LONG time.

I initially had the inlet mounted typically (as per instructions) as seen here:

...this would've resulted in the hose riding the boost tube - that's (too) HOT (I think) so that's why I got the street fitting (Watts A-782 - at Lowe's because Home Depot was OUT).

Here's a few pictures of the EarthRoamer part of the truck:





Yeah the 14 flushes were time consuming...and HOT! I probably could've done a few more but I was wrung out. Anyway, it's better now than it was before and most importantly, I personally know the mechanic didn't use tap water, non-appropriate coolant or just drain and fill rather than flush . Of course now I have to find that recycling center...

Jonathan D. Howell
Major, U.S. Army

 

Nice rig Got any pics of the inside?

 

That's an awesome rig.

Also, I know I worded in confusingly, but I wanted more info on your OIL bypass setup you made.

As far as COOLANT bypass, the dieselsite is the one I'm buying and shouldn't have to mod anything on mine, though I might mount it nice and close to the radiator like you did.

Thanks for sharing! That is a really really cool rig.

 

Oh, my bad on the oil bypass setup...
It's from AMSOIL and I didn't have to make any modifications from the instructions. I did add an oil sample valve to the kit. AMSOIL's kit includes thread-lock but I used the teflon tape from the coolant filter kit (Thanks DieselSite!). The AMSOIL directions aren't as clear on where to install actually though. I found a suitably large spot that wasn't UNDER the truck - see I like to go offroad and I heard that the one shortcoming of an oil bypass filter is that the lines may get snagged on a trail run - that spot? Right behind the grille!

After removing the grille, I loosely threaded the filter on the bracket and used a paper template from the instructions to mark the position of the bracket on the vertical frame in front of the AC condenser. I used my 3/8" drill to go straight through then used the Dremel to notch out an access to the mid-point of the frame:

There is JUST ENOUGH room on this frame pillar to fit the bracket...not quite enough to fit the washers that provide clamping force on the bracket so I used the Dremel to cut a slot to feed the washer through rather than cutting the washer to have a flat edge:

I actually only got two washers on the back of the bracket...the top bolt through the pillar rode along a strengthening joint - I might go back later and see if I can slot in a washer inside of the pillar (but it seems pretty strong right now).

I opted for the billet aluminum oil filler cap and billet aluminum oil filter housing cap along with two 90 degree JIC elbows (no photo)

The lines route through the fiber dam/shield between the AC condenser and the engine compartment and run alongside the coolant bypass line from the heater core to the coolant filter and then over the boost tube to the oil filler cap and oil filter housing cap.


I'll try to get another photo of the engine compartment showing the lines from the other side.

I have switched up on motor oils recently...first I used MotorCraft 15W40, then Blue Diamond synthetic 5W40, now Rotela synthetic 5W40. I only use the MotorCraft oil filters and the MotorCraft fuel filters (every other oil change) and I have had the oil spectro-analyzed. I haven't really worked out how often I should be changing but I know 7,500 is WAY too infrequent and maybe even 5,000 considering my truck weighs 16,000 lbs and I drive it every day. Changing the oil is WAY less expensive than the $1,800 I had to spend to change out the #1 and #7 injectors when they failed at the beginning of the year!

I'm glad I found this spot though - I've been thoroughly searching and trying to absorb as much experience from this forum as I can!

Thanks!

Jonathan D. Howell

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Oh yeah, and I had to cut a notch in the bottom of the grille to get it back over the oil bypass filter...I'll take a photo of that too I guess...it was already tight from the Hella lights but the notch did the trick!

JDH

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

...oh and I'll try to find some interior photos...

JDH

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing. That is a truly amazing rig you have there.

I too have been using Rotella recently, and I use the non synthetic stuff, and just opted to change it every 5k miles. I use the motorcraft filters as well. However I started using the international fuel filters since they can be had for about $35 a set instead of the $115 or whatever the Ford dealer charges. They're the SAME thing. Might save you a few bucks.

I've looked into the Amsoil bypass myself, looks like a nice inexpensive unit. I wish I had the money for the FS2500 though... supposed to be top of the line.

How do you drive that thing everyday?

 

I am very fortunate with the service department at Watson Quality Ford in Jackson, MS. They are generous with discounts on Ford MotorCraft parts and price match. I think my last fuel filter kit was $75 and I was able to get O'Reilly Auto to find one for $70 but $35 sounds much better!. I've gotten to know the parts guy at Watson Quality as I fixed some little things like the upper fan shroud deflector...I had wired the old split deflector using lacing wire after drilling a few pilot holes along the split. Of course, if the deflector had come apart and damaged the fan itself...smart money on replacing a $30 part to avoid a few hours of aggravation.

A buddy recommended the AMSOIL and I have heard good things about FS2500 too. I guess the certainty of installing above the frame rails leaving nothing to get snagged below the truck was more important to me...the FS2500 might have worked for me but I wasn't sure I could afford the alternative - I like to get off the beaten path sometimes (frequently).

I opted not to get a daily driver light duty truck and instead fixed up some things on the ER. As a result I drive the ER from my house to where I vanpool most days but as my schedule is a bit - uh - DYNAMIC, I often drive to work...I live in Clinton, MS but my work with the US Corps of Engineers is in Vicksburg, MS - about 35 miles one-way. I drive 60-65 on I-20 when I do commute and get about 12-13mpg (not hand calculated precisely but it's pretty close).

It is a lot of fun...what's the price tag on that these days? I know my daughter thinks the truck is her playroom so it's worth it I guess - if a bit expensive. We can always cut back on the cable, or cell phones, or other things if necessary but right now it keeps us together doing things outside!

JDH

 

That's awesome.

You can also get the international plug for the water drain on the HFCM as well, it's about $15 if I remember right. It's a brass knurled **** so you can do it by hand instead of trying to get that darn allen wrench in there. Something else you might want to look at.


Another question, are those the HID versions of the Hella lights on the front there? What are they, the 4000's or something along those lines? I have two sets (4 lights total) of the Hella 500's on my truck, just inexpensive lights, but pretty rugged and good lighting for the money. I've been looking at upgrading to HID for them as well, but $$$ doesn't quite allow right now. How do you like yours?

 

That's great info...I'll ask Charlie at Watson Quality. The off-road lights are Hella 4000's. They are wired to the high beams on a separate switch so I can have high beams or high beams with "turn night to day" LASERS (not really - but cool to say). They are bright! I used to have the white Hella covers but spent a little extra to find the Hella clear covers made out of lexan...they look awesome and are much more functional - of course they aren't sealed (the covers aren't sealed - the lights themselves are sealed) so there is some cleaning required as they pick up dust on the backside. I like them very much!