6.0L Performance Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels Related To Performance And Longevity

450-500 HP truck

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:52 AM
  #11  
HeavyAssault's Avatar
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Dump the Snow kit and use an intercooler. Using water/meth will raise cylinder pressures and that's when it gets expensive. Don't forget Garrett has a new turbo out as well that may keep it driveable helping you get to 500.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 01:10 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by riddick01
kool...i guess if im gunna try to push 450-500 i should also run a snow performance kit to keep the EGTs down...
so a list of needs would be
airdog
155 injectors
turbo
gauges
snow performance kit
headstuds
egr delete

anything im missing
Add a dual fuel kit to that list to regulate your fuel pressure in the rails. I got mine from Jefferson State Diesel, the fittings are really nice. Others I've tried have leaked or been difficult to install. The I've heard of others making low 400's with the OE turbo but I used the BD with 195's and generic tuning and have been between 480 and 515 RWHP. If you plan on still towing run Bulletproof's External Oil Cooler. The OE oil cooler will drive up your coolant temps under load and still blow your head gaskets and other stuff.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 03:30 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by houseofdiesel
Add a dual fuel kit to that list to regulate your fuel pressure in the rails. I got mine from Jefferson State Diesel, the fittings are really nice. Others I've tried have leaked or been difficult to install. The I've heard of others making low 400's with the OE turbo but I used the BD with 195's and generic tuning and have been between 480 and 515 RWHP. If you plan on still towing run Bulletproof's External Oil Cooler. The OE oil cooler will drive up your coolant temps under load and still blow your head gaskets and other stuff.
What's a dual fuel kit? A fuel pressure gauge should be more than enough to prove that all you'll need is the pump and maybe drill out the banjo bolts. If fuel pressure drops after that, then I'd upgrade to bigger lines and what not.

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Originally Posted by HeavyAssault
Dump the Snow kit and use an intercooler. Using water/meth will raise cylinder pressures and that's when it gets expensive. Don't forget Garrett has a new turbo out as well that may keep it driveable helping you get to 500.
Running mostly water wont really raise cylinder pressures... Meth can yes. If he's running headstuds (and the job is done correctly) it still shouldn't be an issue.
 

Last edited by Mdub707; Mar 14, 2010 at 03:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Mdub707
What's a dual fuel kit? A fuel pressure gauge should be more than enough to prove that all you'll need is the pump and maybe drill out the banjo bolts. If fuel pressure drops after that, then I'd upgrade to bigger lines and what not.

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Running mostly water wont really raise cylinder pressures... Meth can yes. If he's running headstuds (and the job is done correctly) it still shouldn't be an issue.

when i do headstuds im going to use arp studs and im going to get head gaskets put on to...the place that im going to have do the work does it all the time (they only work on ford and they mainly work on the 6.0) so they are really good at what they do...he showed me his records and he does headstuds on like 10 trucks a week
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Mdub707
What's a dual fuel kit?
There are plugs in the back of the heads fuel rails. You remove those and run lines to a regulator, then return to the tank. This allows you to regulate pressure after the system instead of in front of the system. More efficient.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 11:47 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by houseofdiesel
There are plugs in the back of the heads fuel rails. You remove those and run lines to a regulator, then return to the tank. This allows you to regulate pressure after the system instead of in front of the system. More efficient.
Got any links to that? I still dont really understand that. Once it's regulated, what difference does it make where it's done? Seems like a nice way to get rid of some money...
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 06:58 PM
  #17  
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hey there... im new to the 6.0L..

i have always had the 7.3's...

what is an egr delete?
[color=grey][size=-2]
 

Last edited by cuthbert97; Mar 26, 2010 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by cuthbert97
hey there... im new to the 6.0L..

i have always had the 7.3's...

what is an egr delete?
[color=grey][size=-2]
Use the search button at the top of the page, you will find everything you need to know.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cuthbert97
hey there... im new to the 6.0L..

i have always had the 7.3's...

what is an egr delete?
[color=grey][size=-2]
egr stands for exhaust gas recurculation
its an emmissions thing manufacuters in 03 (year of bigest emmission standards changes) had to decrease nox (nitrogen oxygen) but to due that they had to reduce peak flame temp of the cylinder below 2700 degrees in most diesel engines nox forms at and above that 2700. now how they did that is put exhaust back into the engine less air=lower peak temp (inert gas) but to lower the gas temps once they exit the engine to go back in they go thru a cooler and are regulated by a valve

so when you delete the egr its the cooler and valve piping etc..
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #20  
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thanks for the information...

i looked into doing the delete and what it involves.

what benefits result from doing the egr delete? is it harmful to leave it as is?

would you recomend doing the delete for longevity and power benifets?

i was sceptical about buying the 6.0L due to the headgasket and head bolt problems. are the head gasket problems a result of the new egr regulations?

cheers nick
 
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