Allright StrokerDude and a Boorah to the "Yes We Can" tude I like it when I find others that want to do their work themselves. No offense to those that go to a garage for their work but I enjoy doing it myself and like that feeling knowing that's one more thing I can fix or modify on my truck.
You can see from my Sig that I love getting in there too; doing conversions over to diesels. Got my son doing it too with a VW turbo diesel in a Yota pickup truck.
Oh definately appreciated. I have been searching for days and could only find a name of someone who was supposed to have it writtien in a post but could not find the writeup.
I got my workshop manuals for my xmas present this year from Wifey and could not find anything in there that said you need to raise the cab to remove or work on the heads. MOF it is written as an in-vehicle repair. I have built up my sequence list and parts to be replaced while doing it but would like to know if there are any other tricks. I also plan on doing the EGR plate and cleaning of the EGR at the same time.
I don't look at how long anyone is part of any forum. I'm in the same boat. I have been part of the Cummins 4BT community since 1999 and I can post over with a lot of personnal experience to diesel conversion forum sections because I've been involved conversions since 1999 and have done my own diesel work to various degrees since 1978 when I bought my first VW Rabbit.
Oh I like that... Can you describe what engine and drivetrain parameters were adjusted on these tunes?
Right now I'm not very pleased with the stock automatic shift program that is in mine. Going up hills it feels like it shifts into a lower gear way to soon. I will definately be changing that when the SF3 arrives next week if I don't like what the 3 modified tunes are doing with the shifting. Can you describe how your Innovative tunes differ from the three tunes available in the SF3?

 

I will look after church for the write-up.

I never ran the canned tunes off the SCT, I went straight to the custom ones because of how much better everyone on TDG said they were, and after running them I believe it. I will think a bit more on it today and try to post up some more of the info you are looking for.

 

SHORT ANSWER: Change the gaskets when you are doing this.

My favorite thing I have seen so far is in diesel power's head stud install they instruct you to wipe off and re-use the head gaskets.

You can't put head studs in without lifting the cab or pulling the engine. I'd high-school the cab offa there, and put some new gaskets and studs in it while you are there.





BY THE WAY:
You can't put the passenger side head on the studs with the exhaust manifold on it, the manifold hits the shock mount on early trucks, and the spring tower on the later (coil spring) trucks.

 

Any time that you break the torque on those head bolts you will want to replace the head gaskets. first of all aluminum flexes (as do all metals). Even if you start with the middle bolts and work in cross pattern working your way out the metal will still settle in a different position on the top of that gasket. once this happens the gaskets will not seal as good as before. I would also recommend a use of 30 weight non-detergent motor oil as a thread lube for putting in the new head studs. not so much oil so that the oil fills the hole and creates a hydaulic lock and renders a improper torque value.

 

The rockerbox is aluminum, but the cylinder head is good ol' cast iron. Just ask my back

The idea is right, but the ARP stud kit comes with a package of moly lube that you use on the studs, washers and nuts - IIRC, it states in the instructions something about warranty voiding if you don't use their goop on the nuts. It also suggests for permanent installs to use loctite on the threads that are on the block end of the studs. It might not look like it, but there is just enough lube in those little packets to do all 20 head bolts! LOL

 

did you ever get them done??