Someone school me on timing
#1
Someone school me on timing
Hey guys. So im gunna be doing my kdp very soon and while i have the gear housing cover off i think itd be the best time to advance the timing of my ve pump with the gear. Whats the limit for how advanced i should go. i have the pump turned to the head 1/8 inch at the moment but i dont think its enough to bring my motor alive with the mods i have done. ive also heard of a timing advance piece that gets put onto the bottom of the pump somewhere. whats that all about too? thanks for any help.
#2
I dont know. I ended up messing mine up I am going to re do it all shortly. I would like a clear explanation of where the letters on the gear should line up when stock, +1 tooth, etc. There are a few pictures floating around but you cant tell what year they are for.
The spacer is good but make sure your regulator valve o-rings are good that will have effect on timing. The timing is based on case pressure and spring/shim pressure in the TA piston assembly. Getting this at the right balance at "low load" and cruising speeds, your mileage can really go up!
The stock dynamic timing is a fair range, but the spacer adds quite a bit to the range. I made mine from flat stock and its 3.5mm thick. Depending how you shim it and how your regulator acts, your timing at certian RPMS can change a lot. Kind of like setting the star wheel for fuel quanity vs boost its timing vs rpm.
I assume you want the timing close to stock at lower rpms, then find the sweet spot for mileage at 15-2000RPM and have it somehow go all the way advanced by 3000 rpm??? pure speculation someone clarify this please.
I think the regulator for the case pressure is a relief valve, so your only going to get so much case pressure no matter how fast you spin it, and depending on load the consumption to the injectors could drop it at WOT. So I plan to mess with my timing advance piston spring shims to make sure its advancing all the way when beating on it.
Easy way to check is to affix a diesel timing light to the underside of engine with timing tab , record with camera and go for a run. Thats the only way to know for sure what its doing in real life.
The spacer is good but make sure your regulator valve o-rings are good that will have effect on timing. The timing is based on case pressure and spring/shim pressure in the TA piston assembly. Getting this at the right balance at "low load" and cruising speeds, your mileage can really go up!
The stock dynamic timing is a fair range, but the spacer adds quite a bit to the range. I made mine from flat stock and its 3.5mm thick. Depending how you shim it and how your regulator acts, your timing at certian RPMS can change a lot. Kind of like setting the star wheel for fuel quanity vs boost its timing vs rpm.
I assume you want the timing close to stock at lower rpms, then find the sweet spot for mileage at 15-2000RPM and have it somehow go all the way advanced by 3000 rpm??? pure speculation someone clarify this please.
I think the regulator for the case pressure is a relief valve, so your only going to get so much case pressure no matter how fast you spin it, and depending on load the consumption to the injectors could drop it at WOT. So I plan to mess with my timing advance piston spring shims to make sure its advancing all the way when beating on it.
Easy way to check is to affix a diesel timing light to the underside of engine with timing tab , record with camera and go for a run. Thats the only way to know for sure what its doing in real life.
Last edited by 6btDakota; 10-22-2011 at 08:55 PM.
#3
look up M&H dynamic timing spacer heard real good things about these you take the KSB off and put the spacer inbetween it. getting ready to order mine guess it is a 15 min install. not good to run the 1/8 inch bump with the spacer. just did my kdp on my 92 with 173000 miles on it had not moved one bit but i know it never will now for sure
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